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Description:© (willmonks)

Good climbing with only a short section of nondescript ground at the start of the second pitch.

There are some dangerous detached blocks/flakes on both first and final pitches and the final pitch is quite has some committing runouts. Tiny cams are essential on the last pitch.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 45m (15) Up the chimney (Driftwood) for 12 metres and step left to ledge on arete with large block. Step left again and up to right end of large, bushy ledge. Up clean crack above and then continue up line of flakes around 3 metres left of 'Driftwood, taking care with a fragile section,' to small ledge.

  2. 28m (14) Pretty much straight up to large ledge. Traverse 2-3 metres right to orange streak (Antigone) and climb this to 'Rotten Row'.

  3. 38m (14) Continue up, delicately at first to large diagonal ledge below Hot Flap's final pitch.

  4. 25m (16) From the top of the step halfway along the ledge, climb the wall, moving left at first, to a large detached flake. Step back right and staright up wall and slab to crack in roof and up to join 'Hot Flap'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Felicity Rousseaux & Meg Sleeman, 1989

Location:  

Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838284,-36.752078

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
16 R ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

nice

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