- Height: 140m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 3
- Description:© (willmonks)
Good climbing with only a short section of nondescript ground at the start of the second pitch.
There are some dangerous detached blocks/flakes on both first and final pitches and the final pitch is quite has some committing runouts. Tiny cams are essential on the last pitch.
45m (15) Up the chimney (Driftwood) for 12 metres and step left to ledge on arete with large block. Step left again and up to right end of large, bushy ledge. Up clean crack above and then continue up line of flakes around 3 metres left of 'Driftwood, taking care with a fragile section,' to small ledge.
38m (14) Continue up, delicately at first to large diagonal ledge below Hot Flap's final pitch.
25m (16) From the top of the step halfway along the ledge, climb the wall, moving left at first, to a large detached flake. Step back right and staright up wall and slab to crack in roof and up to join 'Hot Flap'.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Felicity Rousseaux & Meg Sleeman, 1989
Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|16 R||Community registered grade|
|16||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|16 R||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 50%
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