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Description:© (kieranl)

A very nice climb at the grade.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 60m (13) Up chimney to large ledge (as for Driftwood). If you don't have a 60 metre rope there is a comfortable belay niche at 20m [as used on the first ascent] which allows 2 reasonable length pitches.

  2. 48m (14) Up orange streak to ledge then left and up wall to big ledge on left.

  3. 16m (12) Walk 10 metres left and up flake.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Roger Caffin & Sue Wilcox, 1966

Location:  

Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838284,-36.752078

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
14 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 * * ACA Route Register
15 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

beautiful steep

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