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Description:© (aca_admin)

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

  1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt. Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

  2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

  3. 22m (17) Up the little corner until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

  4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Peter McKeand

  • First Ascent: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1969

Location:  

Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838284,-36.752078

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
19 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
19 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 71%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good great fun cool nice awesome scary runout confusing rest interesting slabby balancy

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