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Description:© (daaave)

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

  1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past a bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

  2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

  3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

  4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie & Garry Kerkin, 26th Jun

Location:  

Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838284,-36.752078

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

12 Principal
12 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
12 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
12 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

difficult fun nice fantastic good sweet amazing classy great enjoyable awesome scary intimidating tricky chimney awkward hands weird flake face crap pinch traverse slabby

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