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Description:© (willmonks)

Good 2nd pitch with bold and committing crux well out from gear. (A couple of grades have been added to allow for this.) 'Hot Flap Direct Start' might be a better start than the current first pitch. Take doubles of all cams to #2 1/2 and three #2 TCUs or equivalent.

Start as for 'Hot Flap', below the flake marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  1. 23m (-) Up to the base of the flake and step L. Follow thin cracks up the face and over a steepening. Follow easy ground up and move R to belay on L edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face' (1st belay of Hot Flap).

  2. 35m (18) Move out R a few metres as for 'Hot Flap' and go up to a flake (if you get to a bolt you are about 3m too far R). Go up 5-7m R of the large chimney until the face steepens after about 20m. Get some wires in a flake then move L and boldly up (crux). Above the steepening, traverse 2m R below a thin overlap and then go back L and pull over the overlap. Easier ground leads up dirty groove to ledge on the 'Siren' traverse.

  3. 20m (-) Up the corner above then directly up to a good ledge below the recessed wall L of 'Siren' Buttress.

  4. 28m (-) An unpleasant crack marks the L side of the recessed wall. From below this crack move out L to an arete. Follow the easy but delightful arete to the top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman & Keith Lockwood, 1997

Location:  

Located in Left Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838284,-36.752078

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 R Community registered grade
18 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Rock and New Climbs
18 R ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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