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Description:

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible in the middle section and many parties do the Minerva variant (described separately)

Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercat section and 9 metres right of the start of The 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete befor climbing bulge).

  2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack.Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

  3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

  4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1st Nov

Location:  

Located in The Watchtower approx:
Long/Lat: 141.837614,-36.751890

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

9 Community registered grade
10 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
8 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
9 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
9 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 76%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good amazing great wicked classic superb awesome super beautiful ripper perfect brilliant scary runout tricky exposed slippery feet chimney rest interesting arete crazy face easy jugs traverse crack

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