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A very popular variant on 'Arachnus', but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

Start: Start as for 'Arachnus'.

  1. 40m (8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge.

  2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

  3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

  4. 30m (8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 1965

  • First Ascent: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 12 Jun 1965


Located in The Watchtower approx:
Lat/Long: -36.751890,141.837614

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

9 R Community registered grade
9 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
9 R *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard fun nice fantastic good amazing great lovely exciting enjoyable awesome fall runout tricky exposed committing steep arete roof balancy face easy jugs traverse crack

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Check out what is happening on Arachnus Variant (Minerva) (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.