- Height: 120m
- Ascents: 130
A very popular variant on 'Arachnus', but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.
Start: Start as for 'Arachnus'.
40m (8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge.
12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.
23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.
30m (8) Move left out of cave and up exhilirating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 1965
First Ascent: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 12th Jun
Located in The Watchtower approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|9||Arapiles, Selected Climbs|
|9 R ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 81%
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