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Description:© (willmonks)

Ascends the appealing 8m-wide wall which is left of Watchtower Crack and at right angles to the main slabs. Pitches 2 and 3 are both good, but the start of pitch 4 detracts. If you want a tougher outing, and/or a line which stays entirely on this slim face, start up 'Pumping' and finish up 'Xenomorph' for pitches of 24, 20, 23 and 26.

Start: Start as for Watchtower Crack.

  1. 33m (12) Take Watchtower Crack (or 'Pumping', or Flamingo) to large ledge.

  2. 20m (20) L up orange face past FH. Join diagonal crack to small ledge, then follow ramp to pedestal. Step up L onto short delicate face, then L to good belay cave on arete.

  3. 10m (23) Up flake then over the L end of the roof. Traverse R past FH to big undercling move, then some steep moves to another good belay ledge on arete.

  4. 50m (18) Step up R onto higher ledge, then the reachy lichenous face 3-4m L of Watchtower Crack, adequately protected by small-med cams. Slab easily up L until forced around the arete onto the 'Arachnus' face for the last 20m.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Will Monks & Kevin Lindorff, Nov 2005


Located in The Watchtower approx:
Lat/Long: -36.751890,141.837614

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
23 * ACA Route Register

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Comments keywords

crux good undercling

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