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Description:© (koala)

Fantastic climb.

Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.

Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

  3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

  4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1966

Location:  

Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.836659,-36.751605

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 OZ Rock
16 Principal
16 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
16 *** *** ACA Route Register
16 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 88%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid crux sustained tough hard fun cool nice fantastic fabulous good amazing classy great classic superb awesome magic incredible super beautiful ripper brilliant exciting enjoyable scary runout exposed committing chimney rest interesting epic roof layback short face jamming offwidth crack slippery easy bail bridging fist dry traverse

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