Section navigation

Description:© (koala)

Fantastic climb.

Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.

Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

  3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

  4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 6 Mar 1966


Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.836659,-36.751605

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 Principal
16 OZ Rock
16 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
16 *** *** ACA Route Register
17 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 88%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid crux sustained tough hard fun cool nice fantastic fabulous good amazing classy great classic superb awesome magic incredible super beautiful ripper brilliant exciting enjoyable scary runout exposed committing chimney rest interesting epic roof layback short face jamming offwidth crack slippery easy bail bridging fist dry traverse

Learn about creating circuits.