- Height: 110m
- Pitches: 3
- Ascents: 404
- Description:© (koala)
A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb.
Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.
25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (first pitch of Watchtower Crack).
40m (18) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cave (second pitch of Watchtower Crack) and up to below the overhang. Traverse out right on fantastic horizontal break. Tricky moves gain sickle shaped line and move up to very small stance which has some good wires and is surprisingly comfortable. Don't be tempted by the piton of 'Gollum' a few metres higher, you are much better off where you are.
42m (17) Follow the flake line, which eases towards the top.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1966
Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18||Arapiles, Selected Climbs|
|18||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|18 ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 88%
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