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Description:© (kieranl)

Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing.

Start: Start as for 'The Watchtower Crack'.

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (as for pitch 1 of 'The Watchtower' Crack).

  2. 25m (13) Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweepin to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch.

  3. 10m (14) Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain).

  4. 25m (14) Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge.

  5. 30m (12) From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fahey, Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 19th Dec

Location:  

Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.836659,-36.751605

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
13 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
14 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good sweet great lovely fun exciting nice scary runout exposed chossy

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