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Description:© (bomber pro)

A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles.

Start: At a hard move to large dish, avoidable

  1. 40m (21) up slabs vaguely left, to eventually drift right through a fingery thin section to a belay ledge and rap station.

  2. 20m (21) head up from the left side of the belay ledge, through a serious section requiring RP's then through bulge and drift right to meet 'Skink',belay possible and best to avoid rope drag.

  3. 30m (21) from the belay in 'Skink' head left and climb the wall and heel hook onto the slab and up to the top, small opposing wires can be used in the horizontals if no micro cams are available.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Robin Miller & Kim Karrigan, 1982

Location:  

Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.836659,-36.751605

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Principal
21 OZ Rock
21 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 R *** *** ACA Route Register
21 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 88%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard fantastic good sweet brilliant great beautiful scary runout committing flake pockets roof technical crack

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