★★★ Auto Da Fe 21 R

A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles. Start at a hard move to large dish, avoidable.

1. 40m (21) Up slabs vaguely left, to eventually drift right through a fingery, thin section to a belay ledge and rap station.

2. 20m (21) Head up from the left side of the belay ledge, through a serious section requiring RP's then through bulge and drift left to meet Skink, belay possible and best to avoid rope drag.

3. 30m (21) From the belay in Skink traverse out left, heel hook onto the slab then head straight up. Small opposing wires can be used in the horizontals if no micro cams are available.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).