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Description:© (kieranl)

The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower.

Start 5 metres right of 'The Mantle' at a clean seam.

  1. 27m (14) Up seam then step right to right-facing flake/overlap. Up on left sde of this to ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Up diagonally right to flake and clump of spear grass at 8 metres. Above left are two horizontal overlaps on bulge in wall. Pass these on the left, then back up right to good anchors. The bulge can be climbed direct at grade 20 with poor protection (Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson 1984).

  3. 48m (12) Straight up.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieth Lockwood, Geoff Gledhill & Barry Edwards, 1981

Location:  

Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.836659,-36.751605

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
14 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 46%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pleasant

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