★ Perentie 22

The companion route to Auto Da Fe. The first pitch is contrived but the climbing is enjoyable and quite well protected on its head-wall crux. The second pitch is the technical crux and although it is bolt-protected (and therefore far less serious than Auto Da Fe) it is still an intimidating lead. A single rope can be used but bring plenty of slings. Small tri-cams, RPs and a good range of small- and micro-cams are indispensable.

Starts four metres R of the jump start on Auto Da Fe at the base of the grey concave wall (at the very bottom of the rap line down the wall on the rough stone pavement).

1. 37m (21) Thin moves to start then up and L-wards to where the grey wall eases. Up the easier slab R-wards to a distinctive L-slanting crack-line (which starts about 12m up the wall). Easily up this until it ends, then step L onto a long narrow ledge. From its widest point climb directly up and over the bulge (sharing holds on Auto Da Fe). On the slab itself, continue directly up the intimidating dark streak (less then 2m R of Auto Da Fe). If you wimp out, step L a couple of moves and climb Auto Da Fe for a body length, then move back R. The final head-wall is protected with RPs and small tri-cams. Belay as for Auto Da Fe.

2. 48m (22) Step up onto the holds immediately R of the belay rings, then straight up and over the R-side of the small blocky overlap and up the slab above. Continue up the steepening wall, pull past the BR (crux) then up and slightly L onto a vague clean rib. Up the wall until a short run-out gains the large hollow flakes on Skink. A few metres above these you can step out L of the Skink corner and finish directly up the clean slab to the top.

This route has a complex history. The crux section past the bolt on the second pitch was climbed in June 1996 by Tim Day and Wade Stevens (and named Perentie). The upper head-wall on the first pitch is probably Auto Da Fear by Muki Woods. Significant sections of both pitches have been climbed by others in the past. The route was brushed, added to, straightened, rebolted and climbed in its current form by Glenn and Karen Tempest in winter 2018.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).