- Height: 110m
- Pitches: 3
- Description:© (willmonks)
Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. Individual pitch grades were not supplied - the overall grade is 15 but some pitches may be easier.
Start: Start as for 'The Confession'.
45m (15) Start up 'The Confession' for 3-4m then verge left and up to tiny corner. Continue up left edge of the orange streak to a long right-facing flake/corner. Follow this to the big overhang which is turned on its right-hand edge. Once above the overhang, another corner leads direct to the left end of the 'Salamander' ledge. Belay on the ring bolts as for 'Auto Da Fe'.
15m (15) Up white streaks 2m left of the belay, over overlap, then right to chains. (Noddy first did this pitch around 1975 when putting up 'The Confession' (before 'Skink' Connection, 'Gollum' et al went that way)).
50m (15) Climb Salamander's 4th pitch for about 4m to a good horizontal slot on the left wall. Traverse 2m left as soon as possible - with the horizontal slot at head level - any higher, and you miss the best climbing. Then climb direct up the black streak all the way to the top. Pull through summit overhang on the left. (Noddy did the upper part of this pitch on the FA of Brolga).
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. (alts) This climb has been about 30 years in the making & although the above party were first to do it in its entirety., 2004
Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|15 **||ACA Route Register|
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