Section navigation

Description:© (kieranl)

This climb is very rarely done because of the seriousness of the first pitch, originally climbed as the second pitch of 'Pumping'.

Start on the first belay of Watchtower Crack, after doing 'Pumping' and not lowering off.

To further enhance the experience you could probably run the two pitches together with a 70 metre rope - that would be a trip.

  1. 40m (23) Start up easy corner, moving right into very thin corner. Up this corner, then right to break in roof. Climb boldly up wall above to end of 'Skink' traverse. Go left to belay in Watchtower Crack. A very serious pitch.

  2. 48m (20) Move back right to the centre of The 'Skink' traverse and climb straight up to join 'Gollum'. Finish up 'Gollum'. This pitch would be good in its own right but it is still quite serious.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan. Pitch 2, 1979

  • First Ascent: Mark Moorhead & many more., 1980


Located in Right Watchtower Face approx:
Long/Lat: 141.836659,-36.751605

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 X Community registered grade
23 X * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

Learn about creating circuits.


Check out what is happening on Pumping Part II (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.