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Lower Gully

Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Consistent climbing for the grade. Starts 10m L of Turquoise, takes 2 #3 camalots (or equivalent), a #0.2 is handy to protect clip at second bolt. Up to lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017

Start as for Moneypenny, step R at 4m up to big horizontal (#3 cam) past 2 bolts to lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017

A good discovery. Start through bulge 3m R of Moneypenny, trend R to detached block (has been pinned), through bulge past bolt to lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017

Hard to get good gear and you're close to a groundfall for some time.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Turquoise' at short flake.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Phil Bigg, 1981

An attractive wall but hard to protect and has easier unprotected section.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Turquoise' at short flake as for Into The 'Lipstick'.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

A long, absorbing lead. The top wall - which is the crux - has a loose flake you have to pull on above a small wire that won't keep you off the ledge. Beware!

Start: Start on the south arete of the buttress, a metre left of the shallow orange corner of "Turquoise".

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983

Follow Green Shirt to just after the ledge but then break left following diagonal line past bolt. Finish right of the end of Turquoise.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Rob Saunders, 18 Mar 2015

Good start and finish. Crosses Green Shirt and climbs the L seam and arete off the ledge. Runout up the slab above this.

Start: Start at south arete of buttress at a shallow orange corner.

FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979

Start up either 'Turquoise' or 'More of the Same' to gain the streak up the middle of the upper wall (between 'Green Shirt' and 'More of the Same'). A good RP 3 protects the moves up to the bolt. Step R under the bolt and climb the tricky gray wall up and slightly R to the top. You can reach back L to a lower-off, which now services 'Green Shirt', 'Better Than That', 'More of the Same' and 'All the Same'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Michael Hampton, 21 Sep 2016

Doesn't have to be a solo like the first ascent but not a lace-up. Include a big cam and RPs.

FA: Jon Muir (solo), 1983

Start up Shadows and Light and finish up More of the Same. Great climbing and more consistent than Shadows and Light.

A beautiful, overhanging arete, with a rest on the left that's hard to ignore.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Very reachy.

FA: Mark Moorhead. Chris Shepherd had earlier climbed the upper section as a variant (26) to "White Heat", 1983

A good, pumpy jamming testpiece.

FA: Greg Child & Tim Beaman, 1976

Start up White Heat for 8m. Break R passing a bolt Eventually joining the final crack of Ephemeral.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 6 Mar 2015

The poorly protected crux means that the direct finish is the usual way.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

A subtle line requiring a bit of effort to protect adequately.

Start: Start as for "Ephemeral".

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982

Crank up the wall 2 metres right of "Ephemeral"

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Left side of wall, straight up to ledge. Crucial cam placements aren't bombproof.

Start: Start on the grey wall just R of 'Four Sticks'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Caire, Sir Michael Hampton & Matilda, 2000

on the black rock R of 4 Sticks and I'll Get By

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Caire, 2000

Go further up the chimney than Open Road, bridge up, climb corner and roof on the R wall

FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993

A long pitch taking the right wall of the big chimney to an exciting finish. Protection is sparse in the easier lower half.

FA: Greg Child & Natalie Green, 1978

A graceful flake on beautiful, slick orange rock. Be careful with gear placement as a couple of people have hit the ground after stripping all of their pieces after the fixed gear. Double ropes would help to reduce the effect of the change of rope direction.

Also, the peg is considered dodgy. An earlier peg fell out and was replaced with a bolt. Unfortunately a few people didn't like that and chopped the bolt. It's a shame to see this sort of thing happen especially on such a lovely climb; a bit more care and communication is required all around.

FA: Coral Bowman & Chris Paisker, 1978

Beautiful sustained climbing up the arete and wall right of "Snowblind". The finish feels a bit bold, running out above small RPs, but there's solid gear below.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff & Greg Child, 1978

Thin, reachy and run-out.

FA: Warwick Baird & Tony Marian, 1979

Middle of buttress to tiny corner and overlap. Finish straight up.

Start: Start at middle of buttress right of wide crack just right of 'Bland'.

FA: Keith Egerton & Chris Baxter, 1986

Cutting loose on the jug is suitably exciting as long as it stays put!

FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Marian & Jim Van Gelder, 1979

Hard to get gear.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Marian & Jim Van Gelder, 1979

Nice slab and steeper bit R of Changin' Times - toproped only

Up nicest section of wall getting what gear you can.

Start: Start: 4m right of 'Hypnosis'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 2000

Steeply up right on jugs, then back left and up jugs.

Start: Start just right of the middle of the wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, Tim Ball & Greg Pritchard, 1984

Follow corner on right arete of wall and through bulge.

FA: Tim Ball, John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984

The chimney.

Clip bolt runner then climb up and right, a bit boldly, to arete.

Start: Start on the right wall of the side gully.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Phil Bigg, 1981

Head up rightish to small pod then back left above this and straight up to horizontal break. Take thin seam through headwall.

Start: Start: Above 'Nexus' there is a wall with no routes (until now). It faces the Pharos. Start in the middle of the wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith., 2000

Fiddly gear. You have to love flaring RP placements.

FA: Rod Young & Colin Reece, 1979

Start up the poorly protected seam of Tomorrow, then L and up (gear is good from here).

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Varied and tricky. The crackline about 3m R of the arete (No Quarter). The initial seam is poorly protected and not super easy.

FA: Phillip McMillan & Rod Young, 1979

Up incipient crack 2 metres right of "Tomorrow". Reach right to pass bulge, veering left at the top.

FA: Rod Young & Kevin Otten, 1979

Up the line just R of Pattern Juggler and L of Milk Blood. Just toproped.

"Milk blood to keep from running out". Great crack which will take as much gear as you can hang around to place.

Start: Start at the clean finger crack 2 metres right of "Pattern Juggler" and 10 metres below the boulder-choke.

FA: Chris Peisker & Coral Bowman, 1978

A really good alternative to the finishing slot on "Milk Blood".

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Tenuous line 3 metres right of 'Milk Blood'

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Could be a poxy delight if you break a hold and crater.

FA: Ant Prehn & Jeff Lamb, 1980

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Activity

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