Route Grade Style Popularity
1
No Room for Mistakes
Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot ".
FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976
14
Trad 15m
2
Bornhoffen
Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton.
FA: Rod Young, Stuart Camps, 1976
23
Trad 15m
3
Yep
Crack with overhung start 8 metres left of 'Trampled Underfoot '.
FA: Rod Young, Stuart Camps, 1983
22
Trad 15m
4
Two Bob Each Way
Useless.
FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder, 1976
9
Trad 15m
5
Trampled Underfoot
Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Very big gear is needed and may not be sufficient.
Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide ' wall.
15m (18) Wide roof and up to belay in gully.
15m (18) Traverse out right across wall and go up.
FA: Greg Child, Matt Taylor, Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976
18 R
Trad 30m
6
A Touch of the Vapours
Serious route which appears to require a long reach and has a suspect grade. Rarely, if ever repeated and you would probably need blinkers to avoid clipping the bolts on "Flesh-Eating Pixies ".
Start: Start below block jammed in the horizontal break right of "Trampled Underfoot ". This block is a metre or two right of the first fixed hanger of "Flesh-Eating Pixies ".
FA: Roger Greatrick, Rod Young, 1983
22 R
Trad 20m
7
Flesh-Eating Pixies
A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes.
Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking " but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot ", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb.
FA: Paul Deacon, Nick Sutter, 2000
23
Mixed 35m
, 3
8
Slabocide
Looks quite dramatic. The bolts are carrots and the first is pretty rusty.
Start: Start 1 metre right of "A Touch Of The Vapours ".
FA: Rod Young, 1983
24
Mixed 20m
, 2
9
Wishful Thinking
This is probably now the first bit of Flesh-Eating Pixies.
The left-hand line up wall directly below 'Slabocide '.
FA: Paul Aubrey, Glenn Tempest. John Marshall dispensed with bridging in., 1991
19
Trad 10m
10
Black Spasm
A good roof.
FA: Mike Law, 1977
22
Trad 20m
11
Grand Central
Rarely climbed. Originally raved about but the crux section has to fight to avoid easier climbing and there can be issues with an active beehive.
Start: Start in the gully below the prominent orange wall at the left of two right-facing corners.
14m (-) Up corner for 7 metres before veering left to platform.
25m (22) Step right and up 3 metres to a small flake. Undercling left on pockets, then go straight up subtle line, ignoring easier climbing on either side.
FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978
22
Trad 40m
12
Fever Pitch
Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.
Start: Start the right-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central ".
FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978
23
Trad 40m
13
Not Just a Pretty Face
... a good crack too.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff, 1978
23
Trad 35m
14
Flash Gordon
Scary start.
This is actually the right arete of the red wall but the approach is as for 'Haphazard ' wall.
Start at large tree at top of approach chimney.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols, 1980
21 R
Trad 15m
15
Hune
Middle of face opposite 'Flash Gordon ' and left of 'Haphazard '.
FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984
17
Trad 15m
16
Haphazard
The overhanging, cracked arete across gully north of "Flash Gordon ".
FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy, Tony Dignan, 1979
23
Trad 15m
17
Hollow Point
Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past ' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right.
FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980
18
Trad 40m
18
The Last Resort
Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past '.
Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past '.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young,
20
Trad 30m
19
Swoops
Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort '. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete.
Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past '
FA: Keith Egerton, 1984
23
Trad 30m
20
Future Past
Climb right-hand side of pillar and traverse left above overhang to small cave. Step out and go straight up to top.
FA: Rod Young, Trevor Dance, 1977
15
Trad 31m
21
Sweet Bugger All
Quite pleasant really.
FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984
12
Trad 30m
22
Yesterday's Rooster
Up and left to top of corner from which BH escapes. Up and right past BR to thin line right of arete, almost back into BH below final triangular roof. Step left and up past BR to double ring bolt belay and rap.
Start: Start: As for 'Blue Hawaii '.
FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1999
21
Mixed 22m
, 2
23
Blue Hawaii
Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux.
Start: Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster ".
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, Greg Child, 1978
21
Trad 35m
24
Maniacal
Provided the logical start to 'Lunatic ' but it's now just a footnote as a link from 'Lunatic ' into That's 'Fantastic'
FA: Wayne Jensen, 1989
24
Mixed 35m
, 1
25
Psychotic
Lefthand of two lines left of 'Lunatic ', finishing up arete.
FA: Tony Dignan, Kim Carrigan, 1984
18
Trad 20m
26
Spasmodic
Seam left of 'Lunatic ' then continue up exciting face moves. A runner in 'Psychotic ' protects crux.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
24
Trad 20m
27
Lunatic
Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.
Start: Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii ' and 2m left of 'Yesterday '.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols (starting from the hanging gully and stemming up L of the bolt). Wayne Jensen added the direct start and bolted arete section while doing Maniacal (24)., 1989
23
Trad 30m
28
Smear Campaign
FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010
28
Sport 20m
, 6
29
That's Fantastic
Avoids the crux of "Yesterday " via a fine alternative finish.
Start: Start as for "Yesterday ".
FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1984
24
Trad 30m
30
Yesterday Left Hand Variant
Probably awesome so we'll chuck a few stars at it and see what everyone thinks. To be distinguished from "That's Fantastic " which also starts up "Yesterday " and moves left.
Start: Start: As for 'Yesterday '.
FA: FRA Paul Hoskins, 1993
26
Trad 30m
31
Yesterday
A powerful, overhanging line.
FA: Clive Parker, Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1968
26
Trad 27m
32
Yesterday Direct
Excellent sustained face that leads directly to the crux of 'Yesterday '.
FA: Kim Carrigan via a start further to the right at 27. Ingvar Lidman added the even more direct start as described in 2001., 1984
28
Trad 25m
33
Use No Chooks
Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and continue past more fixed gear.
Start: Start about 12 metres right of "Yesterday "
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
28
Mixed 25m
, 2
34
Genug
A few desperate bouldery moves.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
27
Mixed 15m
, 2
35
Behold This Compost
Line 1 metre left of 'Parsley '.
FA: Jon Bassindale, James Falla, Greg Protchard, 1991
19
Trad 12m
36
Parsley
Crack on left arete, step left around small roof and up.
FA: Kim carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1984
21
Trad 12m
37
Sage
Seam just right of 'Parsley ' to finger-crack.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1984
21
Trad 12m
38
Rosemary
Next crack right of Sage with good holds around bulge.
FA: Nic Taylor, 1983
18
Trad 10m
39
Thyme
Nice crack up righthand side of wall.
FA: Nic Taylor, 1983
16
Trad 10m
40
Vicious Rumours
Avoidable but good
FA: Jon Bassindale, James falla, Greg Pritchard, 1991
19
Trad 10m
41
Rumen With a View
Step left across void and diagonal up to jugs. Back right, trying to climb arete and not walk off left.
Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Vicious Rumours '
FA: Evan Bieske, Angel Black, 1991
15
Trad 10m
42
Specially Yours
Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic.
FA: Keith Egerton, Roy Smith, 1984
20
Trad 30m
43
Lost in the Ozone
Start: Start 10 metres left of the chimney of "The Protege ".
30m (22) Climb crack then grooves to hanging crack then out over roof to belay.
35m (22) Swing onto right face of arete and finish steeply up it.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kim Carrigan (alt), 1979
22
Trad 65m
44
Wherefore Art Thou...?
Corner and finish left of diagonal crack.
Start: Start below middle of orange wall 15 metres left of Lost In The Ozone .
FA: Roy Smith, Keith Egerton, 1984
17
Trad 15m
45
The Protege
A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.
Above the chockstone is a ledge with 2 old pitons. Belay possible. Continue all the way to the top.
FA: Daryl Carr, Chris Baxter, 1967
12 R
Trad 50m
46
Crack 22
Overhanging crack 3 metres right of the start of 'Genug '.
FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer., 1998
25
Trad 12m