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Upper Gully 46 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 24m
  • Style: Mostly Trad
  • Approach time: 25
  • Ascents: 239

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Description:© (jgoding)

Wonderful area that needs to get more attention.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:© (jgoding)

Yesterday 'Gully' is blocked by a chockstone forming a rock-step just past "Milk Blood". This area covers all of the climbs above this step. Scrambling up and down past this isn't too hard but is awkward with a pack, especially in descent.

Many of the routes can also be approached from above, which can be convenient if you drive to the top, but familiarity with the area is required as this would be almost impossible to describe.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 No Room for Mistakes

Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot".

FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976

14
Trad 15m
2 Bornhoffen

Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton.

FA: Rod Young, Stuart Camps, 1976

23
Trad 15m
3 Yep

Crack with overhung start 8 metres left of 'Trampled Underfoot'.

FA: Rod Young, Stuart Camps, 1983

22
Trad 15m
4 Two Bob Each Way

Useless.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder, 1976

9
Trad 15m
5 Trampled Underfoot

Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Very big gear is needed and may not be sufficient.

Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide' wall.

  1. 15m (18) Wide roof and up to belay in gully.

  2. 15m (18) Traverse out right across wall and go up.

FA: Greg Child, Matt Taylor, Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976

18 R
Trad 30m
6 A Touch of the Vapours

Serious route which appears to require a long reach and has a suspect grade. Rarely, if ever repeated and you would probably need blinkers to avoid clipping the bolts on "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Start: Start below block jammed in the horizontal break right of "Trampled Underfoot". This block is a metre or two right of the first fixed hanger of "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

FA: Roger Greatrick, Rod Young, 1983

22 R
Trad 20m
7 * Flesh-Eating Pixies

A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes.

Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking" but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb.

FA: Paul Deacon, Nick Sutter, 2000

23
Mixed 35m , 3
8 Slabocide

Looks quite dramatic. The bolts are carrots and the first is pretty rusty.

Start: Start 1 metre right of "A Touch Of The Vapours".

FA: Rod Young, 1983

24
Mixed 20m , 2
9 Wishful Thinking

This is probably now the first bit of Flesh-Eating Pixies.

The left-hand line up wall directly below 'Slabocide'.

FA: Paul Aubrey, Glenn Tempest. John Marshall dispensed with bridging in., 1991

19
Trad 10m
10 * Black Spasm

A good roof.

FA: Mike Law, 1977

22
Trad 20m
11 * Grand Central

Rarely climbed. Originally raved about but the crux section has to fight to avoid easier climbing and there can be issues with an active beehive.

Start: Start in the gully below the prominent orange wall at the left of two right-facing corners.

  1. 14m (-) Up corner for 7 metres before veering left to platform.

  2. 25m (22) Step right and up 3 metres to a small flake. Undercling left on pockets, then go straight up subtle line, ignoring easier climbing on either side.

FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978

22
Trad 40m
12 ** Fever Pitch

Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.

Start: Start the right-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central".

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978

23
Trad 40m
13 * Not Just a Pretty Face

... a good crack too.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff, 1978

23
Trad 35m
14 Flash Gordon

Scary start.

This is actually the right arete of the red wall but the approach is as for 'Haphazard' wall.

Start at large tree at top of approach chimney.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols, 1980

21 R
Trad 15m
15 Hune

Middle of face opposite 'Flash Gordon' and left of 'Haphazard'.

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984

17
Trad 15m
16 * Haphazard

The overhanging, cracked arete across gully north of "Flash Gordon".

FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy, Tony Dignan, 1979

23
Trad 15m
17 Hollow Point

Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980

18
Trad 40m
18 The Last Resort

Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young,

20
Trad 30m
19 Swoops

Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort'. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past'

FA: Keith Egerton, 1984

23
Trad 30m
20 Future Past

Climb right-hand side of pillar and traverse left above overhang to small cave. Step out and go straight up to top.

FA: Rod Young, Trevor Dance, 1977

15
Trad 31m
21 Sweet Bugger All

Quite pleasant really.

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984

12
Trad 30m
22 * Yesterday's Rooster

Up and left to top of corner from which BH escapes. Up and right past BR to thin line right of arete, almost back into BH below final triangular roof. Step left and up past BR to double ring bolt belay and rap.

Start: Start: As for 'Blue Hawaii'.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1999

21
Mixed 22m , 2
23 * Blue Hawaii

Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux.

Start: Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster".

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, Greg Child, 1978

21
Trad 35m
24 Maniacal

Provided the logical start to 'Lunatic' but it's now just a footnote as a link from 'Lunatic' into That's 'Fantastic'

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1989

24
Mixed 35m , 1
25 Psychotic

Lefthand of two lines left of 'Lunatic', finishing up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan, Kim Carrigan, 1984

18
Trad 20m
26 Spasmodic

Seam left of 'Lunatic' then continue up exciting face moves. A runner in 'Psychotic' protects crux.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

24
Trad 20m
27 *** Lunatic

Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.

Start: Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols (starting from the hanging gully and stemming up L of the bolt). Wayne Jensen added the direct start and bolted arete section while doing Maniacal (24)., 1989

23
Trad 30m
28 * Smear Campaign

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010

28
Sport 20m , 6
29 * That's Fantastic

Avoids the crux of "Yesterday" via a fine alternative finish.

Start: Start as for "Yesterday".

FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1984

24
Trad 30m
30 ** Yesterday Left Hand Variant

Probably awesome so we'll chuck a few stars at it and see what everyone thinks. To be distinguished from "That's Fantastic" which also starts up "Yesterday" and moves left.

Start: Start: As for 'Yesterday'.

FA: FRA Paul Hoskins, 1993

26
Trad 30m
31 *** Yesterday

A powerful, overhanging line.

FA: Clive Parker, Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1968

26
Trad 27m
32 ** Yesterday Direct

Excellent sustained face that leads directly to the crux of 'Yesterday'.

FA: Kim Carrigan via a start further to the right at 27. Ingvar Lidman added the even more direct start as described in 2001., 1984

28
Trad 25m
33 * Use No Chooks

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and continue past more fixed gear.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of "Yesterday"

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

28
Mixed 25m , 2
34 Genug

A few desperate bouldery moves.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

27
Mixed 15m , 2
35 Behold This Compost

Line 1 metre left of 'Parsley'.

FA: Jon Bassindale, James Falla, Greg Protchard, 1991

19
Trad 12m
36 Parsley

Crack on left arete, step left around small roof and up.

FA: Kim carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1984

21
Trad 12m
37 Sage

Seam just right of 'Parsley' to finger-crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1984

21
Trad 12m
38 Rosemary

Next crack right of Sage with good holds around bulge.

FA: Nic Taylor, 1983

18
Trad 10m
39 Thyme

Nice crack up righthand side of wall.

FA: Nic Taylor, 1983

16
Trad 10m
40 Vicious Rumours

Avoidable but good

FA: Jon Bassindale, James falla, Greg Pritchard, 1991

19
Trad 10m
41 Rumen With a View

Step left across void and diagonal up to jugs. Back right, trying to climb arete and not walk off left.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Vicious Rumours'

FA: Evan Bieske, Angel Black, 1991

15
Trad 10m
42 Specially Yours

Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic.

FA: Keith Egerton, Roy Smith, 1984

20
Trad 30m
43 * Lost in the Ozone

Start: Start 10 metres left of the chimney of "The Protege".

  1. 30m (22) Climb crack then grooves to hanging crack then out over roof to belay.

  2. 35m (22) Swing onto right face of arete and finish steeply up it.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kim Carrigan (alt), 1979

22
Trad 65m
44 Wherefore Art Thou...?

Corner and finish left of diagonal crack.

Start: Start below middle of orange wall 15 metres left of Lost In The Ozone.

FA: Roy Smith, Keith Egerton, 1984

17
Trad 15m
45 * The Protege

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Above the chockstone is a ledge with 2 old pitons. Belay possible. Continue all the way to the top.

FA: Daryl Carr, Chris Baxter, 1967

12 R
Trad 50m
46 Crack 22

Overhanging crack 3 metres right of the start of 'Genug'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer., 1998

25
Trad 12m