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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 151.891919, -30.542745
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Fine grained granite, large boulders
Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall way. I heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them exists. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.
- Access Issues:
From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.
From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.
Easy fun traverse
Wet bottom disease
Great move over a little creek
FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010
Start on jug under roof, move out and left and up
Awkward start up arete, directly below 'Wet bottom disease'
High times and Downbeats
'sitstart, into undercling and long moves to jugs higher up, traverse right along rail to finish
One Too Many
sitstart in crevice between boulders, big move to gain jug, then move left on slopers to mantle
Project near nice arete
Just above the nice arete
SDS Great fun arete with committing top out
FA: Sam Van Gastel and Allan Ezzy
3m right of nice arete
Low start, with small holds welded into the seam
3 inch pinch
Stand on boulder to start, technical pinch then easy jugs
FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010
Step over stream, with high left start, throw right, then big move to top
Fully Loaded Horny Horn Section
Start back on jugs, traverse lip then top out
FA: Artie Schultz
Keep traversing then hard mantle on angular slopers
Baked Black Dick
incut edge for left hand, poor pinch for right hand, slap to sloping rail and campus moves to cool mantle
Pack the Paranoid a Pipe
Mad dyno or heel hook first move from the obvious rail to good hold, traverse left to tricky topout
right heel hook start, follow arete to same topout as 'Pack...
|V2||3 inch pinch||3m|
|Fully Loaded Horny Horn Section||3m|
|Wet bottom disease|
|V3||High times and Downbeats|
|One Too Many|
|Pack the Paranoid a Pipe|
|V5||Baked Black Dick|
|Project near nice arete|