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Table of contents

1. Bakers Creek 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.891919, -30.542745

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fine grained granite, large boulders

Description:

Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall way. I heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them exists. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.

Access Issues:

From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.

Approach:

From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Water traverse

Easy fun traverse

V0Boulder
2 *** Wet bottom disease

Great move over a little creek

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

V2Boulder
3 Cave project

Start on jug under roof, move out and left and up

V6Boulder Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 ** Arete

Awkward start up arete, directly below 'Wet bottom disease'

V4Boulder Project
5 * High times and Downbeats

'sitstart, into undercling and long moves to jugs higher up, traverse right along rail to finish

V3Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 One Too Many

sitstart in crevice between boulders, big move to gain jug, then move left on slopers to mantle

V3Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Project near nice arete

Just above the nice arete

Boulder Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** Nice arete

SDS Great fun arete with committing top out

FA: Sam Van Gastel and Allan Ezzy

V1Boulder 6m
9 * Easy crack

3m right of nice arete

V0Boulder 5m
10 Seam project

Low start, with small holds welded into the seam

V4Boulder Project
11 Thin fin

Easy moves

V0Boulder 4m
12 Steep project V15Boulder Project 5m
13 ** 3 inch pinch

Stand on boulder to start, technical pinch then easy jugs

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

V2Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Stream project

Step over stream, with high left start, throw right, then big move to top

Boulder Project 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 ** Fully Loaded Horny Horn Section

Start back on jugs, traverse lip then top out

FA: Artie Schultz

V2Boulder 3m
16 *** Roof extension

Keep traversing then hard mantle on angular slopers

V5Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 *** Baked Black Dick

incut edge for left hand, poor pinch for right hand, slap to sloping rail and campus moves to cool mantle

V5Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 *** Pack the Paranoid a Pipe

Mad dyno or heel hook first move from the obvious rail to good hold, traverse left to tricky topout

V4Boulder
19 * Paranoid Direct'

right heel hook start, follow arete to same topout as 'Pack...

V3Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Project Boulder Project

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 * Easy crack Boulder 5m
Thin fin Boulder 4m
* Water traverse Boulder
V1 *** Nice arete Boulder 6m
V2 ** 3 inch pinch Boulder 3m
** Fully Loaded Horny Horn Section Boulder 3m
*** Wet bottom disease Boulder
V3 * High times and Downbeats Boulder
One Too Many Boulder
* Paranoid Direct' Boulder
V4 ** Arete Boulder Project
*** Pack the Paranoid a Pipe Boulder
Seam project Boulder Project
V5 *** Baked Black Dick Boulder
*** Roof extension Boulder 5m
V6 Cave project Boulder Project
V15 Steep project Boulder Project 5m
? Project Boulder Project
Project near nice arete Boulder Project
Stream project Boulder Project 4m