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Table of contents

1. Bakers Creek 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.891919, -30.542745

Unique Features And Strengths:

A strange mix of old-school trad routes on the walls around the falls and modern bouldering in the creek bed. Fine grained granite, large boulders

Description:

Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall Way. Old neglected trad climbs with bouldering at their base. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.

Access Issues:

From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.

Approach:

From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.

History:

Bob Harden and Doug McLean formed a climbing group called the Delta Club, a breakaway group from the University Of New England Mountaineering Club (UNEMC). Starts of climbs were marked with a Delta instead of the usual square. Some of these markings were still visible at Bakers Creek in the early seventies but have since been worn away. Two climbs were put up in 1964 by Harden and McLean. They are Bakercide (6) and Nitrocide(8).1967 produced only two new ones, Hardicide (14) by Thomas and the tricky Speleocide (12) by B.Douglas. Mills pioneered two new ones in 1969, the best being Klettercide (12). 1971 produced five, the best being Pissed Psychedelic Peanut (15) by A.Suters and Cornelius Corners (15) by Rob Dixon. In 1980, Austin Legler with Greg (Dulux) Pritchard did Basilisk (16). 1981 saw Al Stephens climb White Man’s Burden (20) with Clark and in 1985, Stephens made another brief visit to establish Cheesy Gland (20), a variant finish to Cornelius Corners. In 1986 Stephens with Larry Dixon eliminated all aid on ADP, now 21.

This history was documented in 'Waterfalls-A Rock climbers guide to the waterfalls of New England' by Al Stephens (1996).

After years of neglect, the area received a second wind after Artie Schultz heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them existed (oh yes they did and now they are in this guide...). The new generation was after quality bouldering and it seems they found some.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ammon

The climbs are described in an anti-clockwise direction when facing the falls.

Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse below the pool. 15m. Up the crack

FA: R.Dixon, D.Gallimore, 1961

11Trad 15m
2 Klettercide

Start: The right-hand side of the large pool. A short face.

20m. Up and slightly left to the top of the short face.

FA: D.Mills, D.Jones, 1969

22Trad 20m
3 Basilisk

Start: Just left of Klettercide (?) , the middle of the wall.

20m. Up fine line in wall to top and then right to tree belay.

FA: A.Legler, G.Pritchard, 1980

16Trad 20m
4 ADP

Start: An old water-level aid line, M1 from Right to Left. It has been freed from Left to Right at grade 21.

10m. Aid from right to left M1, or free from left to right, either way its good fun.

FA: B.Harden, (R. to L.), 1965

FFA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, (L. to R.) Jan. 86, 1986

21Trad 10m
5 White Man’s Burden

At the end of ADP is a ledge near the water-level. From this ledge White Man’s Burden goes up and around to the right, while Davicide goes straight up to the left.

Start: On the ledge. Step out and around right then up.

20m. A slightly overhanging and diagonal crack. Strenuous layaways lead to a slight rest at half height. More layaways and delicate moves lead to easier ground and a tree belay.

FA: A.Stephens, R.Clark, 1981

20Trad 20m
6 Davicide

Start: As for W.M.B. The major crack on the right-hand side of the falls.

  1. 45m. Up the crack and traverse left across the slabs.

  2. 15m. Up the upper falls chimney, (crux) then out onto the face to the top.

FA: J.Davis, B.Harden, 1965

13Trad 60m
7 Bryocide

Start: Upper falls, on the right of the water. 10m. Climb up underneath overhanging tree, then aid up and over the right-hand end of the overhang, and continue up the crack, the right hand one.

FA: B.Harden, M.Thomas, 1965

M1Trad 10m
8 Pissed Psychedelic Peanut

Start: A classic. Nice moves on beautiful rock. Excellent.

  1. Follow the slightly diagonal groove, then up over a short wall and delicately up a smooth thin crack to the left of the smooth slabs, to a large ledge

FA: A.Suters, S.Ashton, R.Dixon, 1971

15Trad 35m
9 Punjacide.

Start: On the platform above water level, 2m to the right of the main water chute.

25m. Up and slightly left to a ledge, traverse left, then up slabs.

FA: I.Logan, D.McLean, 1965

13Trad 25m
10 Can’t Decide

Start: 1m. right of the main water course. The smooth slabs.

30m. Straight up the smooth slabs.

FA: D.Mills, J.Street, 1969

11Trad 30m
11 Fungicide

Start: Possible only during drought. At the base of the main water chute.

  1. 30m. Straight up the water chute.

  2. 10m. On the upper falls, the finish goes directly up the face slightly to the right of the water chute.

FA: B.Harden, M.Thomas, 1965

10Trad 40m
12 Bakercide

Start: About 6m. right of the corner,at the left end of the waterfall face.

30m. Climb up to the ledge, walk right, across to the water chute, then up to top.

FA: B.Harden, D.McLean, 1964

6Trad 30m
13 Normacide

Start: About 6m right of the corner, as for Bakercide.

  1. 45m.Up to a large block, over this and up a ramp to the bottom of the wall.

  2. 15m. Up the wall and the obvious crack (crux).

FA: D.Mills, D.McLean, 1966

11Trad 60m
14 Hydrocide

Start: In the corner/gully to the left of the falls. 40m. Up the right wall and wander up below Nitrocide to just below a smooth slab. Up the crack to the left to finish as for Nitrocide.

FA: B.Douglas, E.Cantrill, 1967

9Trad 40m
15 Nitrocide.

Start: As for Hydrocide.

40m. Straight up the orner/gully.

FA: B.Harden, G.Hindmarsh, D.McLean, 1964

8Trad 40m
16 Speleocide

Start: At the slightly overhanging wall at the Right-hand end of the major rock platform. A real mystery climb.

  1. Up the corner to a triangular ledge. From here traverse right, through a "cave" to a ramp, and then a groove to the top.

FA: B.Douglas and party, 1967

12Trad 35m
17 Hardicide

Start: As for Speleocide. An excellent steep start.

    1. Up the corner (crux) to the large triangular ledge. Step left around bulge and up to grassy ledge.
  1. 30m. Straight up then slightly right to overhang. Step up slabs on the left and straight to top. Tree belay.

FA: M.Thomas, E.Cantrill, A.Gallagher, 1967

14Trad 50m
18 Homicide (Variant )

Start: Just left of Hardicide is a harder crack start

FA: B.Douglas, 1968

16Trad 50m
19 Gorton’s Downfall

Start: A corner just around from Hardicide. At one time it was disputed whether this was 'The Great White Father' (12), by D.Gallimore, C.Hansen, C.Cowled, Mar. 71. One seems to be a slight variant of the other.

40m. Directly up to crack, hand traverse right and mantle to belay. Up the V-groove, or the wall beside and continue to top

FA: B.Killip, N.Hughes, 1971

12Trad 40m
20 Cornelius Corner

Start: 15m. left of G.D. The line of triangular corners. A nice climb, a little loose in parts.

  1. 25m. Up the line of triangular corners directly to belay ledge.

  2. 15m. Move right and up to top.

FA: R.Dixon, N.Hughes, 1971

15Trad 40m
21 Cheesy Gland

Start: As for C.C. pitch 1, then move out left and straight up the steep buttress.

  1. 30m. Cornelius Corners to the belay.

  2. 20m. (crux) Continue straight up to the overlap, move out left (poor pro) and clip BR, then pull over the overlap and up open corner/wall past 2nd BR to top. (#4 Rock very useful).

FA: A.Stephens and party, 1985

20Trad 50m
22 Sunnicide

Start: At the left-hand end of the buttress, left of Cornelius Corners opposite the falls. Variant starts and finishes have been done.

  1. 25m. Up the slab in the corner, then up right in a crack to a fig-tree ledge.

  2. 15m. Up into “cave”, traverse right to finish up corner.

FA: M.Thomas, E.Cantrill, D.Fisher, 1966

9Trad 40m
23 Frigid Air

Start: On the slabs 30m. Downstream of Sunnicide.

  1. 15m. Up slabs to tree belay.

  2. 12m. Continue up slabs to top.

FA: P.Prior and party, 1974

6Trad 27m
24 Cams Corner

Start: From Sunnicide, down the creek for about 50m. to a small face on the left side. The climb is a corner at the right-hand end of this face. Rarely climbed, it may be very dirty.

20m. Up the corner.

FA: C.Cowled, M.Davies, 1971

12Trad 20m
25 * Water traverse

Easy fun traverse

V0Boulder
26 *** Wet bottom disease

Great move over a little creek

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

V2Boulder
27 Cave project

Start on jug under roof, move out and left and up

V6Boulder Project
28 ** Arete

Awkward start up arete, directly below 'Wet bottom disease'

V4Boulder Project
29 * High times and Downbeats

'sitstart, into undercling and long moves to jugs higher up, traverse right along rail to finish

V3Boulder
30 One Too Many

sitstart in crevice between boulders, big move to gain jug, then move left on slopers to mantle

V3Boulder
31 Project near nice arete

Just above the nice arete

Boulder Project
32 *** Nice arete

SDS Great fun arete with committing top out

FA: Sam Van Gastel and Allan Ezzy

V1Boulder 6m
33 * Easy crack

3m right of nice arete

V0Boulder 5m
34 Seam project

Low start, with small holds welded into the seam

V4Boulder Project
35 Thin fin

Easy moves

V0Boulder 4m
36 Steep project V15Boulder Project 5m
37 ** 3 inch pinch

Stand on boulder to start, technical pinch then easy jugs

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

V2Boulder 3m
38 Stream project

Step over stream, with high left start, throw right, then big move to top

Boulder Project 4m
39 ** Fully Loaded Horny Horn Section

Start back on jugs, traverse lip then top out

FA: Artie Schultz

V2Boulder 3m
40 *** Roof extension

Keep traversing then hard mantle on angular slopers

V5Boulder 5m
41 *** Baked Black Dick

incut edge for left hand, poor pinch for right hand, slap to sloping rail and campus moves to cool mantle

V5Boulder
42 *** Pack the Paranoid a Pipe

Mad dyno or heel hook first move from the obvious rail to good hold, traverse left to tricky topout

V4Boulder
43 * Paranoid Direct'

right heel hook start, follow arete to same topout as 'Pack...

V3Boulder
44 Project Boulder Project

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
6 Bakercide Trad 30m
Frigid Air Trad 27m
8 Nitrocide. Trad 40m
9 Hydrocide Trad 40m
Sunnicide Trad 40m
10 Fungicide Trad 40m
11 Ammon Trad 15m
Can’t Decide Trad 30m
Normacide Trad 60m
12 Cams Corner Trad 20m
Gorton’s Downfall Trad 40m
Speleocide Trad 35m
13 Davicide Trad 60m
Punjacide. Trad 25m
14 Hardicide Trad 50m
15 Cornelius Corner Trad 40m
Pissed Psychedelic Peanut Trad 35m
V0 * Easy crack Boulder 5m
Thin fin Boulder 4m
* Water traverse Boulder
16 Basilisk Trad 20m
Homicide (Variant ) Trad 50m
V1 *** Nice arete Boulder 6m
20 Cheesy Gland Trad 50m
White Man’s Burden Trad 20m
V2 ** 3 inch pinch Boulder 3m
** Fully Loaded Horny Horn Section Boulder 3m
*** Wet bottom disease Boulder
21 ADP Trad 10m
22 Klettercide Trad 20m
V3 * High times and Downbeats Boulder
One Too Many Boulder
* Paranoid Direct' Boulder
V4 ** Arete Boulder Project
*** Pack the Paranoid a Pipe Boulder
Seam project Boulder Project
V5 *** Baked Black Dick Boulder
*** Roof extension Boulder 5m
V6 Cave project Boulder Project
V15 Steep project Boulder Project 5m
? Project Boulder Project
Project near nice arete Boulder Project
Stream project Boulder Project 4m
M1 Bryocide Trad 10m