A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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anon

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Table of contents

1. Beechworth Area 161 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.690061, -36.356962

Description:

The area centred on Beechworth and bounded by the Hume Freeway on the northwest, the Alpine Road from Wangaratta to Myrtleford on the southwest, and the road from Albury to Myrtleford (via Yackandandah) on the east. Almost all of the rock is granite and a many of the crags are collections of boulders of varying sizes.

1.1. Beechworth Gorge 34 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.678489, -36.354006

Description:

Boulders and quarries located adjacent to Gorge Rd

See http://www.chockstone.org/Beechworth/Bouldering.htm

Approach:

Enter from the Beechworth-Wodonga Rd end of Gorge Rd for areas A, B and C. Enter at the Powder Magazine (Skidmore Rd) for areas D, E, F, G, H, I, J.

1.1.1. A 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 146.685413, -36.348154

Approach:

The first problems are encountered in a small quarry which lies on your right soon after entering the Gorge Drive. These can be a bit chossy after winter.

Topo and info from http://www.chockstone.org/Beechworth/Bouldering.htm

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Un-named V4

Up the arête avoiding the ledges on your left.

V4Boulder
2 Un-named V3

Start at the dodgy flake and straight up, the hardest part is the mantle!

V3Boulder

1.1.2. B 1 route in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 146.681510, -36.350935

Approach:

Further along the road and past the Flat Rock Road junction is a boulder with a hand crack facing the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bull Ant Crack

The obvious hand crack facing the road. Beware of its namesake in the crack!

V2Boulder 3m

1.1.3. C 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 146.681187, -36.351494

Approach:

Park at the 1st lookout and walk down the left (S) side of the slab for 20mtrs, this small quarry has 4 decent problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Bowl

Sit start in the far right corner crack and traverse left across the 'bowl' then up the main crack using the crimps out to the left

V3Boulder 4m
2 Split Egg

Sit start and go straight up the middle. Use left edge and the middle crimps.

V2Boulder 2m
3 Unnamed 1

The left arete.

V0Boulder
4 Unnamed 2

The pinky fingers sized crack.

V2Boulder
5 Unnamed 3

The central arête. Start as for Unnamed 4 and traverse in then up. Beware the creaking hold on the arête.

V0Boulder
6 Unnamed 4

The right hand corner.

V0Boulder

1.1.4. D 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Approach:

Park at the Powder Magazine carpark and walk up the path immediately opposite (NW) towards Ingram’s Rock. This small quarry is at the top of the 1st ridge and on your right (E).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unnamed 1

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

V0Boulder
2 Unnamed 2

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

V0Boulder
3 Unnamed 3

Climb the shallow groove to the right of Unnamed 2.

V2Boulder
4 Unnamed 4

The ledges in the right hand corner make for an easy route up.

V0Boulder

1.1.5. E 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Approach:

The next 2 problems can be found by walking across the walking path in a westerly direction from the quarry mentioned above. You will find the next quality problem (Quarryman) by walking around the back of problems 12 and 13. This thought provoking problem is in another small quarry 20mtrs to the NW of the above problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unnamed 1

Stand start at the hanging flake and climb it.

V0Boulder
2 Unnamed 2

Sit start at hanging flake where it almost touches the ground.

V4Boulder
3 American Psycho

7 metres right of problem no.2 is an obvious brushed face/slab. Stand start slightly left of centre using high gaston. Delicately smear up and right, using tiny holds to gain good left sidepull and high right gaston. Trust your feet whilst you turn the lip then finish up final slab.

FA: Ben Mace, 2014

V3Boulder
4 The Quarryman

A stunning line. Delicate moves up the central arête/rib lead to a committing top over.

V4Boulder 3m

1.1.6. F 1 route in Area

Summary:
Approach:

Proceed down Gorge Road towards Spring Creek to find the following boulders. You will pass a number of graffitied boulders; the 1st of which contains a highball hand crack, this is problem 15.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Un-named V5/26(?)

Often attempted, rarely topped out on! The highball hand crack is usually top roped as the crux is right at the top.

V5Boulder

1.1.7. G 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Approach:

Further down the Gorge Road is an overhanging boulder. Park in the space and walk back up the road to the next 3 problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unnamed 1

Easily visible from the road, this classic highball finger crack is a stunning problem with the hardest moves saved for the finish.

V0Boulder
2 Roadkill

A few nice moves on this overhung boulder’s face leads to a hard pull to top out.

V3Boulder
3 Unnamed 2

An old time easy classic up the slab.

V0Boulder
4 Roadside Sideshow

Sit start at the slopers and up to the good dyke edges, head left and step off when matched at the last big edge.

V4Boulder
5 Project Boulder Project

1.1.8. H 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Spring Creek Boulders

Approach:

As you cross the bridge, look down to your right and you can see the 1st three problems on the boulders just downstream of the bridge. Problems are listed from upstream to downstream (consult map) and start on the downstream side of the bridge. Park on the (W) side of the bridge and access the 1st problems by following the trail that starts just (W) of the bridge with some easy boulder hopping down to the creek.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bayou Baby

Classic! This is the 1st boulder on river right about 50 metres downstream from the bridge and ascends the stepped overhung orange face. Sit start using the chockstone for feet and pull hard off dual side pulls to get off the ground.

V6Boulder
2 Bayou Baby (no chockstone)

As above without the starting chockstone for feet.

V8Boulder
3 The Nymph

Sit start in finger crack on the downstream side of Bayou Baby. Up on slopers, heading left up the vague arête to join Bayou Baby at the top and pull over.

V3Boulder
4 Caddis

Thought provoking! The next boulder just downstream from The Nymph has a single big jug on its lower lip. Start matched in the big jug, pull up and over with much technicality.

V7Boulder
5 The Caddis Connection

Start 1 metre right of Caddis on very small sloping holds and high right heel hook on small edge. Big move left into huge hole, then finish as for Caddis.

FA: Ben Mace, 2011

V6Boulder

1.1.9. I 1 route in Area

Summary:
Approach:

You'll find the next problems by following the creek down to the large waterfall and pool. Sunset Strip takes the orange slab to the W (river left) of the waterfall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunset Strip

An extremely photogenic problem providing eerie climbing in a great position. Traverse into the bottom of the corner crack at the base of the pool, step left to gain the wall proper, up to little block, left around this, take a deep breath and head diagonally up left to the top, following the orange rock. (Not the black streak!).

V0Boulder

1.1.10. J 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Approach:

Cross over and walk downstream on river right of the creek until you get to the next big waterfall and see a large boulder which juts out into the creek. “A Little Ray of Sunshine” starts on the left hand (W) end of the boulder's upstream face and just to the right of the nice looking arete with the big sloping jug.

Cross back to river left of the creek and follow it downstream passing many rapids and small waterfalls, passing problem 28 on the way. “Sink or swim” is on the boulder about 100 metres from the end of the waterfalls.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Little Ray of Sunshine

A striking and powerful line on very smooth overhung rock. Start matched on sloping hold/jug. Head diagonally right and up, top out.

V5Boulder
2 Flotsam

Start at largest low hold on arête and straight up to top out…easier than it first appears when using the full array of holds.

V3Boulder
3 Project

Start as for ‘Flotsam’. Take a deep breath and traverse left across the lip to the big flat top to a mildly terrifying pull over.

Boulder Project
4 Puddles

Scary slabbing. Starts behind the cypress pines in the small ‘cove’ on river left. Straight up the clean black streak.

V0+Boulder
5 Sink or Swim

The small boulder in the centre of the creek provides a good problem if the start isn’t underwater! Sit start on the obvious big flat top on the river left side of the boulder; follow the line of holds to the top.

V0Boulder

1.2. The Precipice 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gold Finger 15Unknown 15m
2 Black Gold 17Unknown 15m
3 Fools Gold 15Unknown 15m

1.3. Flat Rock 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.643926, -36.358089

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Raven 12Unknown 8m
2 Patella Cuttus Muchus 12Unknown 10m
3 The Old Mans Ghost 15Unknown 9m
4 Rawhide 20Unknown 12m
5 Traverse Of The Clods 16Unknown 14m
6 The Obvious Line

The obvious line that looks easy to layback... from a distance. The crack's flared and the granite is crumbly but everyone does it just to stand on top.

16Boulder 3m

1.4. Mt Pilot 77 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.662335, -36.255972

Description:

Mt Pilot is a granite outcrop roughly halfway between the towns of Chiltern and Beechworth. Rock quality varies, however most of the routes are on good quality rock. The area is popular with locals as a short walk from the carpark offers good views in all directions.

Approach:

Exit the Hume Freeway at Chiltern and turn towards Beechworth. After about 10 minutes, you'll pass a nursery on the left. At the top of the next hill, turn left on an unsealed track. Follow this to the carpark.

1.4.1. Bakery Wall 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 146.663914, -36.251318

Description:

The Bakery Wall is probably the most popular area at Mt Pilot, and is also home to many of the best climbs.The rock is generally of very good quality, although the crystal size varies considerably along the length of the wall. The wall has a northerly aspect, which means it bakes in summer (go to Buffalo instead) - pick a cool, dry day from early autumn to spring for the best friction.

Climbs are described right to left facing the cliff.

Approach:

From the fire tower, head W across the dome and through heavy brush to another open area on the N side of the ridge (a trail used to be established but it was overgrown due to disuse after the 2003 fires). From here, head diagonally uphill and W to the start of a well-established trail which will lead you to the top of the cliff. Walk down on the western end of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Happy Baker

The first route on the wall, start on ledge behind cypress. Difficult moves past 2 FHs to rings.

FA: Paul Martin, John Lewis

21Sport 8m, 2
2 Life In The Fat Lane

Start 2m L of The Happy Baker. Up a mini arete to a sloping ledge, and then continue past horizontal breaks. 2FHs to rings.

FA: Paul Martin, John Lewis

18Sport 9m, 2
3 My Lust For Crust

The mini-arete on the boulder opposite Life In The Fat Lane. Although very short, this is a great warm-up, or beginner's lead. 2 FHs.

FA: Paul Martin, John Lewis

16Sport 6m, 2

The next 2 routes are just around the corner from My Lust For Crust on the short orange wall.

4 Rhinoceros Breath

Nice moves up the pockets/scoops to the gripping finger crack. Dodgy rock.

FA: Matt Roper, Luke Fitridge, 1998

23Trad 8m
5 John's Other Arete

The arete that forms the right edge of the chimney to the left of Rhinocerous Breath

FA: John Schwerdfeger

17Trad 8m
6 * Solo Man

Probably the first route here. Excellent protection. The obvious finger/hand crack through a small overhang.

16Trad 12m
7 *** Doughboy

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

FA: Paul Martin, Ryan Butler, 1997

25Sport 20m, 4
8 Doughboy Direct Finish

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

FA: Robert Cowan, 2000

26Sport 25m, 6
9 ** Doughgirl

The bolted face left of Doughboy. Hard face moves lead to the finger crack which may need brushing. 3 BRs, 1 FH.

FA: Paul Martin, Kurt Saggers, 1997

24Sport 20m, 4
10 Soot

The chimney. Bring BIG gear, otherwise go on an adventure and use the chockstones for pro.

FA: Wayne Webb, Derek Rempe

16Trad 17m
11 ** Chicken Salad Roll

Recently re-bolted (2014). Climb the left arete of "Soot" past 3 RB's, execute the thought-provoking mantle to gain 4th RB, then surmount final steepness clipping 5th RB a couple of metres above the lip (out of sight from the ground). Head left to Double Ring lower-off.

FA: Matt Roper, Robert Cowan

22Sport 17m, 5
12 The Bakery Connection

Climb Chicken Salad Roll to 3rd BR. Hard move out left to horizontal crack (takes gear), and up to jugs.

FA: Paul Martin, John Lewis

22Mixed 20m, 3
13 Pass The Mustard

The tiny seam to the left of Chicken Salad Roll. Very technical. Uses Chicken Salad Roll's BRs and a few RPs, exit up The Bakery Connection.

FFA: Robert Cowan, 2000

FA: Ryan Butler (w. aid), 2000

23Mixed 20m, 3
14 *** Beechworth Bakery

Probably the best route at Mt Pilot. The finger-crack/flake a few metres L of Chicken Salad Roll.

FA: Robert Cowan, Matt Roper

21Trad 20m
15 Breakfast at the Ponderosa

The next big crack 2m L of Beechworth Bakery. Can be protected fairly well.

15Trad 15m
16 Rumball Delight

Climb the thin crack left of Breakfast At The Ponderosa on natural gear to a bolt near the top.

FA: John Schwerdfeger, Robert Cowan, 2001

21Mixed 20m, 1
17 Wissywoo

Off-width crack forming right side of John's Arete to ceiling bulge, then turn bulge by face on right. You can clip the BRs on John's Arete until some natural pro, then run it out to the top.

FA: Rod Kerr, Damian Baker, Melissa Baker, 2000

17Trad 20m
18 John's Arete

The lowish angled bolted arete past 5 or so BRs.

FA: John Schwerdfeger, 2000

23Sport 20m, 5
19 Stump Jumper

This route is about 3m left of John's Arete. Two moves of aid on bolts, then climb the finger/hand crack to the top.

FA: Robert Cowan

21 M1Aid
20 * Big Fatty

The cool-looking right-hand line on suspect-looking (but surprisingly solid) rock. Straight up past 3RB's to double ring lower-off

FA: Paul Martin, John Lewis, 1997

17Sport 8m, 3
21 Little Fatty

The left-hand line is also not too bad. Good gear down low. 1 FH to rings.

FA: Paul Martin, John Lewis, 1997

17Sport 8m, 2
22 * Goannas In The Bakery

Excellent and somewhat sustained climbing on the obvious half-height horizontal flake. At the end of the flake, head left for a couple of moves (crux - take RPs), then straight up into dyke city. 1 BR.

FA: Paul Martin, Nick Danne

20Mixed 15m, 1
23 So, This is Aid Climbing?

Delicate hooking up centre of face until about half height, then fine wires in incipient seam. The increasing size of the seam towards the top is offset by the increasing crumbliness.

FA: Top Roped by Damian Baker, Rod Kerr, 2000

M6Aid 20m
24 Rocky Road

This route starts in the middle of the main face at a weakness with heaps of dyke rock. Climb the slab to the rightward sickle crack and follow it to the top. 3 BRs.

FA: Bob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger

22Mixed 20m, 3
25 * Croissant

Very hard. Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

FA: Bob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger

22Sport 20m, 6
26 Crossant Variant Finish

Start as for Rocky Road. Follow the leftward crack to the top on bad gear.

FA: Bob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger

20Trad 20m
27 * Apple Scroll

The low angled black slab behind the big dead tree. Excellent climbing past 3 BRs leads to huge jugs at the horizontal/ledge (2x#1 SLCDs). Continue past another BR to the top.

FA: Bob Cowan & co.

23Mixed 20m, 4
28 Iguana

The very coarse finger crack to the left of Apple Scroll. Heads right under bulges and up. Tape up!

FA: Bob Cowan & co.

18Trad 17m
29 Apple Crumble

Aptly named. On the next separate cliff-line is a black slab capped by a big flattish boulder. This route starts on the right-hand end at all the edges and just left of the chossy chimney. 3 BRs lead to a crack (#1 SLCD) in the overhang, pull through this and head on up.

FA: Matt Roper, Bob Cowan

20Mixed 20m, 3

1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.663776, -36.251109

Description:

This area is rarely visited but contains some great climbs. Routes are described from left to right.

BOLTS HAVE NOT BEEN CHECKED SINCE MAJOR FIRES IN 2003 AND MAY NOT BE SOLID. EXERCISE CAUTION!

Approach:

Walk downhill from Breakfast At The Ponderosa and once you hit a cliffline, walk right until you can get down to the bottom of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The first three routes are not actually on Lower Bakery Wall but on a nearby slab. The slab (dubbed Rocher Escarpe De La Nuit) can be found by locating a small boulder with a roof/lip at the eastern end of Lower Bakery Wall (left-hand end if you are facing the cliff). Walk past this boulder for about 30m northeast. The 3 routes are described left to right.

1 Grimpeuse de la Nuit

The line on the far left of the slab. Straight up through the slipperiness.

FA: Paul Martin

16Top rope 8m
2 Charbon

The centre line. Start as for Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then follow the line of little vertical seams/cracks. A direct start was done using the trees and a big edge at a grade of 21, but it's not known if the trees are still there.

FA: Paul Martin

18Top rope 9m
3 La Mer Noire

Pockets don't get any better than these! Start up Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then traverse right until you get to the line of pockets.

FA: Paul Martin

15Top rope 10m

Now on to the cliff itself...

4 Sarah's Slab

The first small slab between two cracks. Start in centre, go left to a big edge, up over bulge, then right to join Straight Up.

FA: Sarah Jacob, Paul Martin

16Top rope 6m
5 Straight Up

As the name implies, straight up.

FA: Paul Martin, Ben Ching

19Top rope 6m
6 Ethics

The horrible looking crack.

FFA: Robert Cowan, Steve Lyons

18Trad 8m
7 The Knifeblade

The first bolted route. Up the black wall past a FH to big jugs at 4m. Wander up and left placing whatever gear you can find, just don't fall at the top!

FFA: Jason Owen, Paul Martin

20Mixed 15m, 1
8 The Venus Fly Trap

Horrible. The major ugly looking crack. A lot harder than it looks and not recommended.

FFA: Steve Lyons, Robert Cowan

20Trad 15m
9 The Venus Fly Trap LHV

Another awful route. Start up flake/crack that joins The Venus Fly Trap at about 4m. Up as for The Venus Fly Trap. Also not recommended.

FFA: Matt Roper, Paul Martin

20Trad 20m
10 * Seamstress

The wall with 3 FHs offers some very hard and steep cranking. Stick clip first FH. Hard moves past this lead to excellent incuts. Exit out left at twin seams, lower-off at chains.

FFA: Paul Martin, Ben Ching

24Sport 10m, 3
11 * Bobbin

Short but sweet. Takes the steep bulge right of Seamstress. Stick clip the first FH, pull over the bulge and meander up to the top.

FFA: Paul Martin, Robert Cowan

21Sport 15m, 3
12 Crack One

Not recommended. The first crack around the corner from Bobbin.

FFA: Matt Roper, Robert Cowan

19Trad 20m
13 Crack Two

The next crack right of Crack One.

20Trad 12m
14 * Ache To Touch You

Quite a nice route on excellent hard dyke-rock. Three metres right of Crack Two is a scoop with 2 FHs. Bouldery moves lead to a pocket and the second FH. Step right and finish up Thredbo.

FFA: Paul Martin, Jason Owen

23Sport 10m, 2
15 Thredbo

A really cool route if you can do the start. The wall 2m right of Ache To Touch You. A very hard start leads to jugs.

FFA: Jason Owen, Paul Martin

20Unknown 10m

The final route is on a boulder about 300m to the west (right if you are looking at the cliff). The boulder is about 8m high and has a brilliant orange north facing wall and finger crack.

16 Boulderly Yours

The finger crack to the huge horizontal slot and roof, continue up the headwall. Gear was pre-paced above the roof on the FFA.

FFA: Robert Cowan, Paul Martin, 1997

23Trad 8m

1.4.3. Unearthed Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 146.671395, -36.252121

Description:

This area has seen the most recent activity at Mt Pilot. It only had one route for a long time before a few more were added in 2013. Routes are described L to R looking at the wall.

All bolts on this wall require bolt plates.

Approach:

Head up the walking track for about 150m. When the surrounding trees open out on the R, break off the track to the top of Unearthed Wall.

Descent Notes:

Descend off one of the 2xBR anchors (which can be difficult to find) or the tree. Sticky Date Sunrise is about 5m left of the tree (looking out) and has an anchor at the top.

Alternatively, you can walk down on the left hand side (looking out) through thick scrub.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Helmets On!

On the far L end of the wall there is a crack which ends at about half height. Up this and then continue on up the slab.

FA: Stephen Gordon, Rob Burton

12Trad 20m
2 Mount Pilot Unearthed

The original route on this wall. The arete on the L of the large crack splitting the wall past 3 BRs. Please be aware the final section of this route is somewhat run-out.

FA: Robert Cowan, Richard Spry

17Sport 20m, 3
3 Sticky Date Sunrise

Great beginner route! Tricky opening sequence leads to excellent, well protected slab climbing. Starts 1m R of the wide crack splitting the wall (if standing at cliff base). Double BR top anchor.

15Sport 20m, 8
4 Lucky Charlie

Fantastic first lead! Well protected fun slabbing. Starts 7m right of Sticky Date Sunrise (if standing at cliff base). Tricky opening moves, then easily up the slab. Double BR top anchor.

11Sport 15m, 6
5 Psycho Midget Madness

A hard start leads to good face climbing, finishing easily up the slab. Start off the block 5m R of Lucky Charlie (if standing at cliff base). If needed, the start can be skipped by using the tree. Double BR top anchor near small gumtree on ledge.

17Sport 15m, 6

1.4.4. Falcon Buttress 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.672031, -36.252685

Description:

This is the closest area to the carpark, and the routes are some of the longest, however it does suffer a little from loose rock.

Do not climb in this area between June and December as the resident Peregrine Falcon breeds here during this period.

Approach:

Follow the walking track for 60m and turn off to the R. Walk downhill for about 50m and then head to the R. This will put you at the top of the cliff.

Descent Notes:

Walk down to the south or abseil down Valley Wall and walk to the bottom of this wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Encephalopathy

The first route as you walk down. Climb the face left of the arete to the horizontal crack. Swing right on the face above the slab and up to the top. Has 5 BRs or so, take a few small cams as well.

FA: Matt Roper, Robert Cowan

20Mixed 30m, 5
2 Two Scoops

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger, Matt Roper

25Mixed 45m, 3
3 Falcon's Lair

Up centre of the face to diagonal crack. Pull through then up face past 5 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger, Matt Roper

22Mixed 45m, 5
4 Falcon's Nest

Right side of face. Pull past BR to thin ledge, traverse right and over small roof. Climb the arete past 4 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger, Matt Roper

23Mixed 45m, 5

1.4.5. Valley Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.672023, -36.252339

Description:

Shaded for most of the day, and sometimes used by SES and Army for abseiling practice. Please don't remove moss/lichen.

Approach:

Follow the walking track for 60m and turn off to the R. Walk downhill for about 50m and then a bit to the L until you're in front of a large orange boulder. This is the top of Valley Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rough Edge

Starts at the main corner of the left-hand end of the cliff and about 50m left of The Lighthouse Of Alexandria.

  1. 20m. The corner to a cave behind some large blocks.

  2. 20m. The crack to the ledge. Instead of scrambling off, continue to the top via the steep crack that starts on the little ledge above.

Set by Peter Cunningham, Iain Sedgman, 1979

17Trad 40m
2 Lightning Fork

The obvious wide chimney that has a zig in it.

FA: A team including C. Trafford, 1976

12Trad 40m
3 * On The Edge

Start off the big block at the base of the chimney. Ordinary gear leads to a FH and then a ledge (another FH). Continue up the left arete passing 3 FHs to the top.

FA: Jason Owen, John Lewis

20Mixed 25m, 5
4 Fingered

To the R of On The Edge is a beautiful clean finger crack. Climb this to the ledge and then boldly mount the face above.

FA: Bob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger

21Trad 10m
5 The Lighthouse Of Alexandria

Forty metres right of the left-hand end of the cliff at a leftward diagonal line becoming a flake/chimney.

  1. 35m. Move left on the boulder, pull onto the ledge and up leftward ramp to the flake/chimney.

  2. 20m. Scramble to the top.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Phillip Armstrong, 1979

15Trad 55m

1.4.6. Dentistry Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 146.672004, -36.252025

Description:

Dentistry Wall was developed in the late 90s and features some new-fangled fixed hangers! The rock is very solid.

Approach:

From the bottom of Unearthed Wall, walk about 100m downhill and left. Alternatively, walk N from the bottom of Valley Wall as it is on the same contour.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

About 100m left of the upper section of Dentistry Wall is a large boulder containing the first route.

1 Another Boulder Problem

Climb past 3 BRs on the face.

FA: Bob Cowan, Matt Roper, Richard Spry

22Sport 15m, 3

The next 4 routes are on the upper section of Dentistry Wall.

2 Crown Jewel

Climb up a ramp past 2 BRs and then mount the headwall above past one more BR.

FA: Bob Cowan, Ryan Butler

19Sport 20m, 3
3 Plaque Removal

Climb the thin wall past 6 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan

24Sport 15m, 6
4 Bridge Work

Bridge the crack and slip up the arete past 2 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, Ryan Butler

21Sport 15m, 2
5 Crack Cusp Technique

4m right of Bridge Work is a clean curving crack.

FA: Ryan Butler, Robert Cowan

17Trad 15m

The next two routes are on the lower section of Dentistry Wall.

6 Root Canal

Has a nice committing crux that has seen more than one fall! On the next tier below the climbs described above, is a cracked face topped by a bulge. Climb the broken crack system and clip a BR before pulling the root-bulge.

FA: Richard Spry, Matt Roper

17Mixed 15m, 1
7 It's A Gas

6m left of Root Canal is a rippled face. Crank your pants off past 5 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, 1999

25Sport 15m, 5

1.4.7. Eastern Slabs 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Top Rope, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 146.671108, -36.251445

Description:

These slabs form the northeast side of Mt Pilot itself.

Approach:

Walk 50m NE from the fire tower to find the top of the main slab.

Descent Notes:

Walk down the gully on the left (facing out).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following route can be found on the eastern side of a large boulder just before the track gets to the summit of Mt Pilot.

1 Auto Pilot

A nice easy finger crack to warm up.

9Boulder 12m

The following 2 routes are on the main slab just NE of the fire tower. Walk down on the left.

2 Burlock Dinky

The first white water streak on low angled rock. No gear.

FA: Kurt Saggers, 1996

9Boulder 20m
3 39 Cents Of Glory

On the main slab is an obvious white water streak. Follow this over the steepening and past some dubious flakes. No protection!

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Watson, Peter Cunningham, 1979

20Top rope 30m

The remaining routes can be found directly below the main slab and a little to the south (right looking downhill).

4 Little Crack

The short crack at the left end of the Flake Off wall is a "muck around boulder problem".

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham, 1979

18Top rope 6m
5 * Pegasus

The clean black water streak in the centre of the slab.

FA: Paul Martin

23Top rope 12m
6 * Flake Off

To the right of Pegasus is a line with heaps of flakes. Nice climbing past 2 FHs leads to an anchor.

FA: Paul Martin, 1994

17Sport 12m, 2

1.4.8. Yeddonba Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.669940, -36.250923

Description:

The tallest cliff at Mt Pilot, however it is mostly quite low-angled.

Approach:

Walk 40m W and then N from the firetower to the top of the obvious cliff.

Descent Notes:

Walk down around the L side (facing out) and along a ledge with some pines. Routes are described right to left facing the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Oil On Canvas

The first closed corner you come across. A hard start leads to good pockets and good gear. Avoid the chossy direct finish by moving left over the slab at the end of the corner to join The Tourist Route.

FA: Paul Martin, Nick Danne, Andrew Porter, 2000

22Trad 30m
2 * The Tourist Route

The obvious big layback flake. Fun laybacking leads to a pleasant doddle up the slab (1 FH). Don't fall while clipping.

FA: Paul Martin, Nick Danne, Andrew Porter, 2000

16Mixed 30m, 1
3 * Room With A View

Duck through the cave and this is the next nice crack along. Easy moves out of the cave lead to a no hands rest. Continue up the thin corner (crux).

FA: Paul Martin, Nick Danne, Andrew Porter, 2000

19Trad 35m
4 * Yeddonba Wall 10Mixed 40m, 2

1.4.9. Lone Ranger Boulder 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This 10m boulder can be found as you drive out of Mt Pilot. It's on the south side of the road about 500m back from the car park.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Luke's Route

Climb the hand-crack on the back of the boulder, then pull past some thin moves protected by a FH.

FFA: Luke Fitridge, Matt Roper

22Mixed 10m, 1

1.5. Mt Stanley 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 146.803051, -36.448598

Description:

Mt Stanley consists of a number of granite outcrops that are very similar to Mt Buffalo, although they are mostly quite short. This makes it a great spot to get some practice in for your projects on the mountain! The location of the crag (facing west and above 1000m altitude) means that it can quickly turn very cold, so be prepared for the weather! In winter, it can be snowing or cool with fantastic friction. In summer, it can be boiling hot or refreshingly cool (especially in the morning).

Approach:

The drive to Mt Stanley is easy if it is dry. However, when it is wet, a few sections are very muddy and require a 4WD.

From Beechworth, drive to Stanley. When you get to the intersection in the middle of Stanley where you can turn right to Myrtleford, go left (Hillsborough Rd). Follow this - shortly after you pass Highgrove Orchard it turns to dirt. The second turn off to the right is Mt Stanley Rd - take this and follow it to the end where you'll see the main tower. To get to Talon Block and Grendel Corner, turn around and drive back about 300m and take the first 4WD track on the left. If you're in a car, park just off the road as this track is 4WD only. Follow it up and over the ridge and then around the corner you'll find the new (2013) comms tower.

1.5.1. Main Tower Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.802786, -36.451325

Description:

These routes are located on a small cliff just under the main tower.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Danish Crack

The left corner/roof.

FA: Russ Crow (solo), 1988

14Trad 7m
2 Geranium Crack

The crack 1m right of Danish Crack. Up the left side of the top block which may be loose.

FA: Russ Crow (solo), 1988

13Trad 6m
3 Fear Of Heights

3m right of Geranium Crack. The widening to off-width crack.

FA: Iain Sedgman, 1993

15Trad 7m

1.5.2. Talon Block 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 146.802509, -36.443561

Description:

These routes are all located on the cliffline just to the west of the new (2013) comms tower.

Approach:

Take the last 4WD track on the right about 300m before the main tower. Follow this up to the top of the ridge where you'll find the tower. Talon Block is to the west. The obvious crack/corner with a spiky protrusion at the top is Talon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pardalote

Arete left of Spoonerism.

FFA: Andrew Patrick (solo), 1998

12Trad 10m
2 Spoonerism

Opposite Talon. Arete and face.

FFA: Janet Roper, 1998

12Trad 8m
3 Talon

The crack/corner, exiting over the top of the talon.

FFA: Andrew Patrick, Richard Melder, 1997

15Trad 9m
4 Is That A Light Sabre In Your Pocket?

The cool hanging arete to the right of Talon. Dyno start and 3 BRs.

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

23Sport 10m, 3
5 Thomas Flares

A fun and sporty route to the right of "Is That A Light Sabre In Your Pocket?".

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

23Sport 10m, 3
6 Project

Overhanging off-width crack to the right of Thomas Flares.

Trad Project
7 Laser Line

Small pro in crack line to the right of the off-width crack. Go left of centre.

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

21Mixed 8m, 1

The next routes are on a cliff immediately below Talon and are described left to right.

8 Comic Relief

The fist-crack left of the blunt arete, then mantle the flake and up.

FFA: Andrew Patrick, Richard Melder, 1997

10Trad 8m
9 G String

The crack around right of Comic Relief.

FFA: Andrew Patrick (solo), 2000

12Trad 7m
10 Small Wires

Small seam right of G String. Bad pro to start leading to nice flakes.

FFA: Paul Martin, Kurt Saggers, Jenny Palmer, Andrew Porter, 1999

19Trad 7m
11 Right Route

The right end of the face, trending right past a FH to a horizontal (pro). Then go left to the steep finger crack and up.

FFA: Paul Martin, Kurt Saggers, Jenny Palmer, Andrew Porter, 1999

17Mixed 9m, 1

1.5.3. Grendel Gully 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 146.801617, -36.445074

Description:

These routes are in a gully just off to the left before the new comms tower.

Approach:

Follow the directions for Talon Block. The gully is off the left side of the road about 40m before the tower.

The obvious bolted arete on the left of the gully is You Can Leave Your Helmet On.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 You Can Leave Your Helmet On

Arete left of Valkyrie. Originally climbed by the 2 BRs on the western side, it now has 2 FHs.

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

20Sport 7m, 2
2 Valkyrie

Left side of face. Thin crack to off-balance ledge, stem to gain small alcove and a couple of jams to exit.

FFA: Mat Roper, Richard Melder, 1997

18Trad 12m
3 Chariots Of Fire

Solid for the grade. Up the wall a couple of metres left of Grendel past two BRs. Small cam protects the finish.

FFA: Andrew Patrick, John Schwerdfeger, 1997

17Mixed 13m, 2
4 Grendel

The obvious corner crack which takes great protection.

FFA: Mat Roper, Richard Melder, 1997

16Trad 13m

The next two routes are on the boulder above Grendel, next to the snow gum.

5 Western Exposure

Short and sweet. Start on the lower right and roughly follow the arete past 2 BRs.

FFA: Mat Roper, John Schwerdfeger, 1997

19Sport 6m, 2
6 Golden Dung Line

20m downhill and left (SW) of Western Exposure is an obvious crack line.

FFA: Richard Melder, Andrew Patrick, 1997

16Trad 6m

The next three routes are on a block across the gully from You Can Leave Your Helmet On (about 30m north).

7 Bosch

The left arete past 2 BRs. Starting boulder problem is about V2!

FFA: Bob Cowan, Josh ?, 1998

18Sport 9m, 2
8 Sunset

Boulder onto the rail, balance your way up to the next ledge, and then try and figure out how to get up through the scoop. Probably 23 for short people! 3 BRs.

FFA: John Schwerdfeger, Andrew Patrick, 1999

18Sport 10m, 3
9 Sliver Off

Wires plus 1 BR. The right hand route.

FFA: Bob Cowan, Josh ?, 1998

17Mixed 8m, 1

The next two routes are about 30m down the gully on the same side as Bosch.

10 Sister Crack

At small gum tree go straight up finger crack.

FFA: Richard Melder, Andrew Patrick, 1997

13Trad 10m
11 New Moon

Arete right of Sister Crack. Up to horizontal, then crux moves to clip the only BR.

FFA: Mat Roper, John Schwerdfeger, 1999

18Mixed 11m, 1

Further down the gully on the right (north side) is an obvious arete.

12 Obelisk

The obvious arete with 2 BRs.

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

18Sport 10m, 2
13 Unnamed top-rope

The wall to the left of Obelisk. Feel free to bolt it.

22Top rope 10m

Keep heading down the gully and scramble around right (north) two a small wall with another couple of routes.

14 Young Ones

The hard one. 2 BRs plus wires.

FFA: Rob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger, 1998

22Mixed 12m, 2
15 Old Guns

The easier one. 2 BRs plus wires.

FFA: John Schwerdfeger, Rob Cowan, 1998

17Mixed 12m, 2

Head down left of Golden Dung Line for about 150m. Belay chain in gum tree.

16 Matinee

Start at bottom of block. Up vertical broken crack to fist jam, over ledge and follow line to horizontal. Go left and up.

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

17Trad 20m
17 Unnamed

Right of Matinee. The 75 degree left-leaning finger-crack. Surmount ledge, move right, and step down slightly for thin moves up arete. Needs another BR.

FFA: Mat Roper, Andrew Patrick, 1998

20Mixed 18m, 1

1.5.4. South of Grendel Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.801272, -36.448865

Description:

These few climbs are scattered among the gullies to the south of Grendel Gully. The first two are located on a wall with a lonely ringbolt, 2 gullies south and downhill a bit from Grendel.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paul And Sarahs Arctic Adventure

The obvious weakness on the left arete. No real protection.

FFA: Paul Martin, Sarah Jacob, 1997

17Trad 8m
2 Ode To A Frenchman

Hard and dangerous. Crank up on a few good holds (RB) to stance on right. Take a deep breath and traverse left (crux - fiddly RPs) to seam/gastons. Keep going left and up until you hit the top.

FFA: Paul Martin, John Lewis, Andrew Porter, 1997

22Mixed 10m, 1

Head south along the ridge from Grendel for about 600m, then down hill.

3 Supercrack Project

Stunning crack, both in appearance and difficulty!

Trad Project
4 Turkey Baster

Flake system on high side of green chasm. Worthwhile.

FFA: Mat Roper, R. Linsley, R. Melder, 1998

17Trad 15m

1.5.5. The Far Block 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:

Head south down 4WD track from the main fire-tower for about 800m. Once you pass a rocky outcrop on the left, keep going for another 150m (approx). Where the trail flattens briefly, there is a bulldozed drainage culvert on the right which you can park in. At the end of the culvert, turn to about 2 o'clock and go through bush for about 200m. When the terrain drops steeply off, the cliff should be obvious. The north-facing slab has 4 routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Guatemalan Disco Adventure

Left of Scooter. From under overhang, move to arete, onto face and up.

FFA: R. Linsley, R. Melder, 1998

15Trad 10m
2 Scooter

Balancy. Up the slab past 3 BRs. Exit right on hand traverse and mantle out to ledge.

FFA: John Schwerdfeger, Andrew Patrick, 1997

20Sport 15m, 3
3 ** Shadowline

In the middle of the face, step right and back left to tiny mantle ledge and up small hanging corner. 2 BRs and small wires.

FFA: Mat Roper, John Schwerdfeger, 1997

17Sport 15m, 2
4 Skyline

Start as for Shadowline to first BR, out to second BR and continue up arete past 3rd BR. Small wires at the end.

FFA: John Schwerdfeger, Andrew Patrick, 1997

18Mixed 15m, 3

1.6. The Pinnacles 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grease Lightning 16Unknown 60m

1.7. Mt Jack 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Burkey's Birthday Bash Corner

The curving corner crack on the right of the little crag (known locally as Bum Rock) on the western slopes of Mt Jack northeast of Myrtleford.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Chris Oerman, 2008

18Unknown 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 Auto Pilot Boulder 12m 1.4.7. Eastern Slabs
Burlock Dinky Boulder 20m 1.4.7. Eastern Slabs
10 * Yeddonba Wall Mixed 40m, 2 1.4.8. Yeddonba Wall
Comic Relief Trad 8m 1.5.2. Talon Block
11 Lucky Charlie Sport 15m, 6 1.4.3. Unearthed Wall
12 Patella Cuttus Muchus Unknown 10m 1.3. Flat Rock
Raven Unknown 8m 1.3. Flat Rock
Helmets On! Trad 20m 1.4.3. Unearthed Wall
Lightning Fork Trad 40m 1.4.5. Valley Wall
G String Trad 7m 1.5.2. Talon Block
Pardalote Trad 10m 1.5.2. Talon Block
Spoonerism Trad 8m 1.5.2. Talon Block
13 Geranium Crack Trad 6m 1.5.1. Main Tower Cliff
Sister Crack Trad 10m 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
14 Danish Crack Trad 7m 1.5.1. Main Tower Cliff
15 Fools Gold Unknown 15m 1.2. The Precipice
Gold Finger Unknown 15m 1.2. The Precipice
The Old Mans Ghost Unknown 9m 1.3. Flat Rock
Breakfast at the Ponderosa Trad 15m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
La Mer Noire Top rope 10m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Sticky Date Sunrise Sport 20m, 8 1.4.3. Unearthed Wall
The Lighthouse Of Alexandria Trad 55m 1.4.5. Valley Wall
Fear Of Heights Trad 7m 1.5.1. Main Tower Cliff
Talon Trad 9m 1.5.2. Talon Block
Guatemalan Disco Adventure Trad 10m 1.5.5. The Far Block
V0 Unnamed 1 Boulder 1.1.3. C
Unnamed 3 Boulder 1.1.3. C
Unnamed 4 Boulder 1.1.3. C
Unnamed 1 Boulder 1.1.4. D
Unnamed 2 Boulder 1.1.4. D
Unnamed 4 Boulder 1.1.4. D
Unnamed 1 Boulder 1.1.5. E
Unnamed 1 Boulder 1.1.7. G
Unnamed 2 Boulder 1.1.7. G
Sunset Strip Boulder 1.1.9. I
Sink or Swim Boulder 1.1.10. J
16 The Obvious Line Boulder 3m 1.3. Flat Rock
Traverse Of The Clods Unknown 14m 1.3. Flat Rock
My Lust For Crust Sport 6m, 2 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
* Solo Man Trad 12m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Soot Trad 17m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Grimpeuse de la Nuit Top rope 8m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Sarah's Slab Top rope 6m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
* The Tourist Route Mixed 30m, 1 1.4.8. Yeddonba Wall
Golden Dung Line Trad 6m 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Grendel Trad 13m 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Grease Lightning Unknown 60m 1.6. The Pinnacles
17 Black Gold Unknown 15m 1.2. The Precipice
* Big Fatty Sport 8m, 3 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
John's Other Arete Trad 8m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Little Fatty Sport 8m, 2 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Wissywoo Trad 20m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Mount Pilot Unearthed Sport 20m, 3 1.4.3. Unearthed Wall
Psycho Midget Madness Sport 15m, 6 1.4.3. Unearthed Wall
Rough Edge Trad 40m 1.4.5. Valley Wall
Crack Cusp Technique Trad 15m 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
Root Canal Mixed 15m, 1 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
* Flake Off Sport 12m, 2 1.4.7. Eastern Slabs
Right Route Mixed 9m, 1 1.5.2. Talon Block
Chariots Of Fire Mixed 13m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Matinee Trad 20m 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Old Guns Mixed 12m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Sliver Off Mixed 8m, 1 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Paul And Sarahs Arctic Adventure Trad 8m 1.5.4. South of Grendel Gully
Turkey Baster Trad 15m 1.5.4. South of Grendel Gully
** Shadowline Sport 15m, 2 1.5.5. The Far Block
V0+ Puddles Boulder 1.1.10. J
18 Iguana Trad 17m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Life In The Fat Lane Sport 9m, 2 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Charbon Top rope 9m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Ethics Trad 8m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Little Crack Top rope 6m 1.4.7. Eastern Slabs
Bosch Sport 9m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
New Moon Mixed 11m, 1 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Obelisk Sport 10m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Sunset Sport 10m, 3 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Valkyrie Trad 12m 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Skyline Mixed 15m, 3 1.5.5. The Far Block
* Burkey's Birthday Bash Corner Unknown 25m 1.7. Mt Jack
19 Crack One Trad 20m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Straight Up Top rope 6m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Crown Jewel Sport 20m, 3 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
* Room With A View Trad 35m 1.4.8. Yeddonba Wall
Small Wires Trad 7m 1.5.2. Talon Block
Western Exposure Sport 6m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
20 Rawhide Unknown 12m 1.3. Flat Rock
Apple Crumble Mixed 20m, 3 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Crossant Variant Finish Trad 20m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
* Goannas In The Bakery Mixed 15m, 1 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Crack Two Trad 12m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
The Knifeblade Mixed 15m, 1 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
The Venus Fly Trap Trad 15m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
The Venus Fly Trap LHV Trad 20m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Thredbo Unknown 10m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Encephalopathy Mixed 30m, 5 1.4.4. Falcon Buttress
* On The Edge Mixed 25m, 5 1.4.5. Valley Wall
39 Cents Of Glory Top rope 30m 1.4.7. Eastern Slabs
Unnamed Mixed 18m, 1 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
You Can Leave Your Helmet On Sport 7m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Scooter Sport 15m, 3 1.5.5. The Far Block
V2 Bull Ant Crack Boulder 3m 1.1.2. B
Split Egg Boulder 2m 1.1.3. C
Unnamed 2 Boulder 1.1.3. C
Unnamed 3 Boulder 1.1.4. D
21 *** Beechworth Bakery Trad 20m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Rumball Delight Mixed 20m, 1 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
The Happy Baker Sport 8m, 2 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
* Bobbin Sport 15m, 3 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Fingered Trad 10m 1.4.5. Valley Wall
Bridge Work Sport 15m, 2 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
Laser Line Mixed 8m, 1 1.5.2. Talon Block
21 M1 Stump Jumper Aid 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
22 ** Chicken Salad Roll Sport 17m, 5 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
* Croissant Sport 20m, 6 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Rocky Road Mixed 20m, 3 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
The Bakery Connection Mixed 20m, 3 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Falcon's Lair Mixed 45m, 5 1.4.4. Falcon Buttress
Another Boulder Problem Sport 15m, 3 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
* Oil On Canvas Trad 30m 1.4.8. Yeddonba Wall
Luke's Route Mixed 10m, 1 1.4.9. Lone Ranger Boulder
Unnamed top-rope Top rope 10m 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Young Ones Mixed 12m, 2 1.5.3. Grendel Gully
Ode To A Frenchman Mixed 10m, 1 1.5.4. South of Grendel Gully
V3 Un-named V3 Boulder 1.1.1. A
High Bowl Boulder 4m 1.1.3. C
American Psycho Boulder 1.1.5. E
Roadkill Boulder 1.1.7. G
The Nymph Boulder 1.1.8. H
Flotsam Boulder 1.1.10. J
23 * Apple Scroll Mixed 20m, 4 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
John's Arete Sport 20m, 5 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Pass The Mustard Mixed 20m, 3 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Rhinoceros Breath Trad 8m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
* Ache To Touch You Sport 10m, 2 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Boulderly Yours Trad 8m 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Falcon's Nest Mixed 45m, 5 1.4.4. Falcon Buttress
* Pegasus Top rope 12m 1.4.7. Eastern Slabs
Is That A Light Sabre In Your Pocket? Sport 10m, 3 1.5.2. Talon Block
Thomas Flares Sport 10m, 3 1.5.2. Talon Block
V4 Un-named V4 Boulder 1.1.1. A
The Quarryman Boulder 3m 1.1.5. E
Unnamed 2 Boulder 1.1.5. E
Roadside Sideshow Boulder 1.1.7. G
24 ** Doughgirl Sport 20m, 4 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
* Seamstress Sport 10m, 3 1.4.2. Lower Bakery Wall
Plaque Removal Sport 15m, 6 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
25 *** Doughboy Sport 20m, 4 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
Two Scoops Mixed 45m, 3 1.4.4. Falcon Buttress
It's A Gas Sport 15m, 5 1.4.6. Dentistry Wall
V5 Un-named V5/26(?) Boulder 1.1.6. F
A Little Ray of Sunshine Boulder 1.1.10. J
26 Doughboy Direct Finish Sport 25m, 6 1.4.1. Bakery Wall
V6 ** Bayou Baby Boulder 1.1.8. H
The Caddis Connection Boulder 1.1.8. H
V7 Caddis Boulder 1.1.8. H
V8 Bayou Baby (no chockstone) Boulder 1.1.8. H
? Project Boulder Project 1.1.7. G
Project Boulder Project 1.1.10. J
Project Trad Project 1.5.2. Talon Block
Supercrack Project Trad Project 1.5.4. South of Grendel Gully
M6 So, This is Aid Climbing? Aid 20m 1.4.1. Bakery Wall