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Description

Routes are described right to left. Located within Belair National Park thus follow the usual eco-friendly regulations of the national parks.

Now known as the highball capital of Adelaide but still used for both trad and top rope.

© (boardlord)

Approach

Enter via Gate 11.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

7m V2. Up to pocket break, then right to crimper line (match this), and to RH gaston. Finish directly. Not a winter route! Bad landing.

Start: Start left of cave at horizontal break.

2
19 Birdy Trad 7m

Climbs the short crimpy wall right of the cave starting at a big jug. Fingery climbing leads to a ledge, then more easily to the top. Established ground-up solo. Be careful of the rock.

FA: 2007

3

Takes a steep but juggy start about 5m left of Trev - leading to the obvious hanging slab. Gain the good hold at base of slab and stretch up left for a sidepull. Mantle, then finish diagonally right up slab to top out. Established as a ground-up onsight solo.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2006

4
11 * Butterflies Trad 8m

Starts on the LH end of a roof and climbs above this via an obvious layback weakness (right of the hanging slab of C & P)

5
12 Trev Trad 8m

The easy weakness left of Nev past the good pocket, finishing up and left.

6
18 Nev Trad 8m

Used to be a very overgraded 20...

7
23 Kev Trad 8m

A true boulder problem leading to an easy finish. From underclings, latch the sloper (easier if you go with your left) - then up to a large undercling and onwards. RH (on sloper) version is more committing at about V2.

8
18 Ron the Cake Trad 8m

The attractive rampline on orange rock - leading to a vegetated crack just above a good handjam.

9
20 * D-lusion Trad 8m

Route just left of Disjointed Illusion crack via jugs then crimps and a big move.

FA: Climb a meter or so left of disjointed - onto the slopy ledge, crimps then big open moves for about four or so moves then sketchy topout

10

The wide crack.

11
23 ** Snaggle Puss Trad 8m

One of the best lines here - and quite a boulder problem (though gear may be able to be arranged in the undercling). A direct line right of the crack, heading past the good finish jug of 'Pathetic Earthlings...' - straight up the face to the obvious large undercling (crux). Push into it and reach for the big break above.

12

A slightly weird experience. Climb up the body-engulfing trench leading into the roof (behind the 'Nati Beast' launch boulder) - then make a committing series of moves out toward the sunlight (and onto the face). Finish up the obvious flakeline.

13

The biggest jump move in Adelaide? Lowest jug below A Trick of the Tail - double-handed to the big jug about 2m up.

FA: James Falconer, 2000

14
24 * Fartin Flattin Trad 8m

Starts off the boulder and climbs the face direct - left of the Nati Beast arete - to join A Trick of the Tail. Originally TR'd on first ascent - hence the name change.

FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin (TR) - Steve Kelly (ground-up solo)

15
26 *** Nati Beast Trad 8m

Originally TR'd on the 'first ascent'.

FA: Since been soloed.

FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin (Top Rope) Steve Kelly (solo)

16

The body-engulfing trench left of 'The Shrinker'. Climb/chimney up to the roof - then go out towards the light. Finish as for 'The Shrinker'.

17
20 * The Shrinker Trad 8m

The good looking line on the righthand end of the cliff, with a steep start on good holds, then finishing more delicately just right of the corner.

19
V3 Snatch Boulder

The following 9 problems are on the little wall 60m further along the escarpment.

20

Would've beeen done before - a userfriendly version of The Transformer. From its start, grab the layback jug up L and continue.

FA: Paul Badenoch

21
V4 The Pinch Boulder

Start as for Transformer, reach right to large layaway then LH up for very poor pinch. RH to top. Unlikely move.

22
V5 The Transformer Boulder

A 6 foot dyno. One of the best at its grade.

Start: Obvious starting jug (generally well chalked) in middle of wall - starting matched, then jump for the top.

23
V4 Swing Thing Boulder

Double hand dyno from the start of 'The Transformer' to the 'Mr Incredible' finishing hold up and right.

Start: As for Transformer.

24
V3 Mr Incredible Boulder

Double-hand 4'9 dyno to 3-quarter height down sloping jug.

Start: Right of 'The Transformer' jug matched on the horizontal just left of corner.

25
V4 Slo Mo Boulder

Start: Right of crack right of 'Mr Incredible'. Grab two good sized flat crimps, place very high feet and dyno for the top. A 5'8 dyno.

26
V4 Matchsticks Boulder

Start: Low flat crimp line down and right of the start to the previous problem. Gaston small seam, reach for very small 2-finger crimp LH, and small slopey crimp up and right. Then jug.

27
V1 The Traverse Boulder 6m

Either way, taking the line of least resistance (but not touching the top).

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2009

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