A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Sport, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 138.624363, -34.988841
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Easy access, short sport routes, nice sunny aspect
A good crag for those wishing to access the easier sport climbing on offer in Adelaide with fairly well placed bolts - just don't expect much below grade 20, this IS South Australia
- Approach:© (boardlord)
Located in disused quarry. Travelling up Old 'Belair' rd park in gravel layby (both sides of the road). Follow steep track at S end of car park to overgrown dirt road, continue SW 50m to the crag.
|2||The Fading Light||21||312m,|
|3||Smearing on Mt McKinley||23||310m,|
|4||Ram it to the Hilti and Climbmax||21||310m,|
One of the best routes here, leads to oversize bolt-hanger at anchor
|6||Technicolour Sunfish RHV||21||12m|
|7||Fear Late at Night||16|
|8||Eye of the Needle||26||10m|
|9||Stepping into the Unknown||21||412m,|
|10||Hard Stone City||21||12m|
Up to hard move directly over bulge
Rainbow Wall LHF
Follow as for the original route to the rest below thw small roof, escape under and to the left of the small roof, following the corner crack until the chains can be reached.
The often-climbed but unrecorded (?) corner-crack between RW and RTAS. Stay in it all the way!
FA: Paul Badenoch, Chris Oerman, 2008
Running to a Standstill
Up V-corner directly to hard move to chains
Running to a Standstill RHF
Same as 'Running to a Standstill' then escape right to avoid hard move to chains
Edge of Darkness
Up arete to bolt with no hangar. After second hangar head right to 'No Mans Land' chains. An overlooked climb with a lot of merit!
No Man's Land
Difficult Mantle move
|18||No Man's Land RHV||17||12m|
|19||Naturalists in a High Tech World||16||8m|
Re-equiped and ready for action. Three bolts.
Start to the left of the Arete under the overhang. Clip first bolt, then make a couple more moves and head left and join original line at its first bolt. Finish as for original line. A bit more sustained than its original.
FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 4th Mar
The Magic School Bus
Start as for Sexy Love Slot and gain the ledge. Traverse left and head straight up arete and small slab above. Once at top traverse right to Sexy Love Slot's chains. The route is mixed and needs natural pro for the above traverse.
Set by Peter Arcidiaco
FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 9th Mar
Sexy Love Slot
The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.
Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'
FA: Alistair Gifford-Moore, T. Cox, 1991
Sexy Love Clam
Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 2 bolts to the chains.
|26||Wham Bam Thank You Clam||19||8m|
Fisting a Shark
Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête to avoid the 9m runout experienced on the FA!
Start a couple of metres left of Felch me just right of the arete. Make some reachy moves through a technical sequence to gain the ledge. Head up and directly over the roof clipping a bolt above the lip and finish at Felch Me's chains. A powerful sequence through the roof.
FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 12th Mar
Feltch Me With a Crazy Straw Yeah Direct!
From the arete to the chains via the crack.
|31||Felch Me With a Crazy Straw, Yeah!||20||514m,|
Felch Me With A Crazy Straw, Yeah! RHF
Self explanatory. Climb Felch Me to its last bolt and head right to chains. A much more enjoyable finish.
FFA: Peter Arcidiaco, 18th Mar
Choss Stone City
Start in the corner right of felch me following the crack up to the chains.
Set by @ryze118
Taste the Pain
Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.
Taste The Pain LHV
Start as for original but once at the roof head directly over the centre and up left hand side of the slab. Keep out of the right hand corner. A powerful sequence over the roof!
FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 2014
The Nigel Rees Traverse
Starts with graffitti and ends up being a bit of a joke. Start left of graffitti left of ELV on a jug and traverse right all the way across the wall finishing in the gully right of Mercey Street. Intersect Mercey Street above it's 1st bolt and down climb that routes start to continue trending right to the finish. Rock deteriorates in the last 5m.
The Electric Lavender Vacuum Cleaner / ELV
It's about time someone told it how it is. It is NOT a 23. It's easier than some other 21's around here - but don't under-estimate the seriousness of the second bolt if it is at your grade.
The Electric Lavender Vacuum Cleaner LHV
Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.
The Electric Lavender Vacuum Cleaner RHV
Starts slightly right of the original line. Head directly up using holds in the original line as left hand holds and minimal right hand holds to one very long dynamic move at the end. No bolts can be clipped so it's either a top rope, solo, or high-ball boulder problem!
ELV to its 2nd bolt then veer hard right, gain the staircase, rest for a year or two, then into RO clipping its 2nd bolt. Finish as for RO direct.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2014
What time is love? / Feel it Crumble and Melt in Your Mouth
Top rope up the front face of staircase to the chains. Swing left after first step of the stair case. (may be named something else)
FA: April Westcott, Stuart Williams. And at around the same time by Rick Jeukin, 1990
Once graded 25. A technical sequence.
Climb RO to it's 2nd bolt then traverse right across PO, Gonads and through a decidedly thin sequence to join Mercey Street at it's good sidepull between it's 2nd & 3rd bolt. Finish as for this route.
Beg For Mercey
Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the scar on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Climb into this route then right again into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercey Street.
Receptive Orifices RHV
Very contrived. Stick-clip RO's first draw, then climb the blank wall between RO and PO, using their crack's for hand and foot holds.
FA: Paul Kinnane, 2004
A training link. Starts on loose jug left of graffiti left of ELV then traverses right to finish up all of PO with no rest.
Start up PO then break left into RO after the first bolt and finish up this. Another link.
Was 22 then hold breakage upped grade to 23. In 2011 the flake came off resulting in a large sidepull. Now 22 again.
Up Perceptive Orators to the third bolt, then right to finish as for Elephantiasis. A good link.
AGW then into PO and finishing as for RO Lefthand finish. Easiest route on this wall.
Advertiser Ground Fall Watch
Rarely done. Takes line right of PO through underclings to scar (horizontal) - then up to independent chain shared with Elephantiasis.
Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then left into PO and finish up this.
Elephantiasis of the Gonads
A hard crimpy start leads into easier climbing above.
The line without a lower off. Hold breakage at the start (chossy rock) and no protection leads into the crack.
The right hand line on the graffitti wall. An intense sequence past three bolts.
Big Trouble In Little Vagina
Starts 3m right of Mercy Street. Pull on and make an unlikely move to a high slopping edge. from here head towards the cutout at the top of the cliff. Rock deteriorates in last couple of metres but will clean up. Expect it to get harder! Future plans will be to bolt it if the rock allows.
FA: Petey Pete, 2014
Climb ELV right hand variant to the ledge and finish as for Footswitch.
FA: Petey Pete, 2014
Long/Lat: 138.627521, -34.990694
The Beer Question
FA: Nick Neagle, Erik Lock, 1991
Top Rope, Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 138.618990, -34.991985
The very L end of the quarry.
FA: Dean Johnson, 1998
Out for the Count
Through the centre of the overhangs R of Beanicle's.
FA: Dean Johnson, 1998
The Merciless Slaughter of the Wachati
Take the R end of the overhang.
FA: Dean Johnson, 1998
Rumble on the Rocks
Crack just R of the arete R of TMSOTW.
FA: Carlo Faganello, 1998
Palm Muting a Jackson
The black slab ribbed with horizontals.
FA: Dean Johnson, 2000
A Last-Ditch Effort
The prominent widening crack in the centre of the wall.
FA: Dean Johnson, 1998
Fade to Black
Start at the R end of the face and follow the diagonal ledge up L to the horizontal and a bolt.Up past a second bolt to chains.
FA: Dean Johnson, 2000
Outer Mongolian Yak Herders
Sit start just L of small undercut section near R end of bouldering wall. Up thin crack then L to finishing jug.
FFA: Tom O'Leary, 2000
Revenge of the Killer Mutated Sea Bass
Prominent crack at far R end of bouldering wall.
FFA: Tom O'Leary, 2000
Thank You Mr Hilti
Start R of bouldering wall at lowest point of cliff (just R of the undercut base). Up past two ring bolts then take the diagonal to another bolt and on to chains.
Set by Dean Johnson
Start at the crack just R of the overhung section. Up to the horizontal, tackle the bulge, then on to chains.
FA: Tom O'Leary, 2000
Long/Lat: 138.606371, -34.999288
Cycle Sluts from Hell
FA: Matt Adams
|2||Twenty Two, Going on Twenty Three||24|
Trad and Boulder
Long/Lat: 138.667377, -35.008288
- Description:© (boardlord)
Routes are described right to left. Located within Belair National Park thus follow the usual eco-friendly regulations of the national parks.
Now known as the highball capital of Adelaide but still used for both trad and top rope.
- Approach:© (boardlord)
Enter via Gate 11.
The Waterfall Route
7m V2. Up to pocket break, then right to crimper line (match this), and to RH gaston. Finish directly. Not a winter route! Bad landing.
Start: Start left of cave at horizontal break.
Climbs the short crimpy wall right of the cave starting at a big jug. Fingery climbing leads to a ledge, then more easily to the top. Established ground-up solo. Be careful of the rock.
Confidence and Paranoia
Takes a steep but juggy start about 5m left of Trev - leading to the obvious hanging slab. Gain the good hold at base of slab and stretch up left for a sidepull. Mantle, then finish diagonally right up slab to top out. Established as a ground-up onsight solo.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2006
Starts on the LH end of a roof and climbs above this via an obvious layback weakness (right of the hanging slab of C & P)
The easy weakness left of Nev past the good pocket, finishing up and left.
Used to be a very overgraded 20...
A true boulder problem leading to an easy finish. From underclings, latch the sloper (easier if you go with your left) - then up to a large undercling and onwards. RH (on sloper) version is more committing at about V2.
Ron the Cake
The attractive rampline on orange rock - leading to a vegetated crack just above a good handjam.
Route just left of Disjointed Illusion crack via jugs then crimps and a big move.
FA: Climb a meter or so left of disjointed - onto the slopy ledge, crimps then big open moves for about four or so moves then sketchy topout
The wide crack.
One of the best lines here - and quite a boulder problem (though gear may be able to be arranged in the undercling). A direct line right of the crack, heading past the good finish jug of 'Pathetic Earthlings...' - straight up the face to the obvious large undercling (crux). Push into it and reach for the big break above.
A Trick of the Tail
A slightly weird experience. Climb up the body-engulfing trench leading into the roof (behind the 'Nati Beast' launch boulder) - then make a committing series of moves out toward the sunlight (and onto the face). Finish up the obvious flakeline.
Pathetic Earthings... Who Can Save You Now? / Pathetic Earthlings
The biggest jump move in Adelaide? Lowest jug below A Trick of the Tail - double-handed to the big jug about 2m up.
FA: James Falconer, 2000
Starts off the boulder and climbs the face direct - left of the Nati Beast arete - to join A Trick of the Tail. Originally TR'd on first ascent - hence the name change.
FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin (TR) - Steve Kelly (ground-up solo)
Originally TR'd on the 'first ascent'.
FA: Since been soloed.
FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin (Top Rope) Steve Kelly (solo)
The Right Hand Roof Crack
The body-engulfing trench left of 'The Shrinker'. Climb/chimney up to the roof - then go out towards the light. Finish as for 'The Shrinker'.
The good looking line on the righthand end of the cliff, with a steep start on good holds, then finishing more delicately just right of the corner.
|18||Freckle Cat and Doktor||10||8m|
The following 9 problems are on the little wall 60m further along the escarpment.
The Transformer LHV
Would've beeen done before - a userfriendly version of The Transformer. From its start, grab the layback jug up L and continue.
FA: Paul Badenoch
Start as for Transformer, reach right to large layaway then LH up for very poor pinch. RH to top. Unlikely move.
A 6 foot dyno. One of the best at its grade.
Start: Obvious starting jug (generally well chalked) in middle of wall - starting matched, then jump for the top.
Double hand dyno from the start of 'The Transformer' to the 'Mr Incredible' finishing hold up and right.
Start: As for Transformer.
Double-hand 4'9 dyno to 3-quarter height down sloping jug.
Start: Right of 'The Transformer' jug matched on the horizontal just left of corner.
Start: Right of crack right of 'Mr Incredible'. Grab two good sized flat crimps, place very high feet and dyno for the top. A 5'8 dyno.
Start: Low flat crimp line down and right of the start to the previous problem. Gaston small seam, reach for very small 2-finger crimp LH, and small slopey crimp up and right. Then jug.
Either way, taking the line of least resistance (but not touching the top).
FA: Paul Badenoch, 2009
Long/Lat: 138.670165, -35.021739
|2||Setting Up Camp||17||9m|