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38 routes as trad in Belair Back to index

 
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Showing all 38 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Car Crash Quarry Sector 1 - Left
14 1000 Sneezes

Starts as for 'Old School Face Slap'. At the rooflet traverse right until you're at the obvious weakness then mantle up and right onto the slab. No chains yet but will be installed soon.

FA: Ben Dickson, 2017

Trad
22 Urban Decay Trad 15m
16 Fear Late at Night Trad 13m
Car Crash Quarry Sector 2 - Central
16 Naturalists in a High Tech World Trad 8m
9 Wayward Beginner Trad 8m
11 Sexy Love Slot

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

FA: Alistair Gifford-Moore & T. Cox, 1991

Trad 8m
7 Building Confidence

Start up the crack just right of the fish dreams roof. Clip the first bolt of fish dreams continuing directly up the crack with 2 more cam(s), clip the 3rd bolt before reaching "the boardwalk" ledge.

FA: Robert Brooks, 2016

Mixed 10m, 2
17 Don't Touch Me There

Up just L of the big roof, around R of the block and continue in the V-corner. Take a 0.75 BD cam. A 'biner on a rope was used to lower off on the FA. Needs a bolted rap point and a little more cleaning.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Chris Oerman & David Newell, 2 Mar 2016

Trad 12m
Car Crash Quarry Sector 3 - Right
25 Fisting a Shark

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

FA: 6 Mar 2011

Trad 15m
21 Arête Crack Slab

Climb the overhanging arête and up the crack to a stance at half way height. Place a cam in the horizontal then balance your way up the slab between the arête and the corner to the chains.

Caution. The first bolt is the second bolt on Felch me and the run out to the chains is committing! Two pieces of gear was used on the FA.

FA: Petey Pete, 2017

Trad 18m
16 Feltch Me With a Crazy Straw Yeah Direct!

From the arete to the chains via the crack.

Trad 15m
12 Choss Stone City

Start in the right corner of Felch Me following the crack up to the chains.

Trad 14m
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall
12 What time is love?

Top rope up the front face of staircase to the chains. Swing left after first step of the stair case. (may be named something else)

FA: April Westcott, Stuart Williams. & at around the same time by Rick Jeukin, 1990

Trad 8m
22 Gonads RHV

The line without a lower off. Hold breakage at the start (chossy rock) and no protection leads into the crack.

Trad 9m
21 Bomber Choss

Climbs the obvious vertical weakness to the right of Mercy Street. When it ends move slightly right to some good side pull blocks and up. Rock deteriorates at the top.

FA: Petey Pete, 25 Jan 2017

Trad 8m
19 Desperate Living

Start a meter right of 'Bomber Choss' under the obvious large sloper. Climb up the face via bouldery moves and finish as for 'Bomber Choss'.

Trad
Tom's Quarry
10 A Last-Ditch Effort

The prominent widening crack in the centre of the wall.

FA: Dean Johnson, 1998

Trad 8m
Workanda Creek
21 The Waterfall Route

7m V2. Up to pocket break, then right to crimper line (match this), and to RH gaston. Finish directly. Not a winter route! Bad landing.

Start: Start left of cave at horizontal break.

Trad 7m
19 Birdy

Climbs the short crimpy wall right of the cave starting at a big jug. Fingery climbing leads to a ledge, then more easily to the top. Established ground-up solo. Be careful of the rock.

FA: 2007

Trad 7m
18 R Confidence and Paranoia

Takes a steep but juggy start about 5m left of Trev - leading to the obvious hanging slab. Gain the good hold at base of slab and stretch up left for a sidepull. Mantle, then finish diagonally right up slab to top out. Established as a ground-up onsight solo.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2006

Trad 8m
11 Butterflies

Starts on the LH end of a roof and climbs above this via an obvious layback weakness (right of the hanging slab of C & P)

Trad 8m
12 Trev

The easy weakness left of Nev past the good pocket, finishing up and left.

Trad 8m
18 Nev

Used to be a very overgraded 20...

Trad 8m
23 Kev

A true boulder problem leading to an easy finish. From underclings, latch the sloper (easier if you go with your left) - then up to a large undercling and onwards. RH (on sloper) version is more committing at about V2.

Trad 8m
18 Ron the Cake

The attractive rampline on orange rock - leading to a vegetated crack just above a good handjam.

Trad 8m
20 D-lusion

Route just left of Disjointed Illusion crack via jugs then crimps and a big move.

FA: Climb a meter or so left of disjointed - onto the slopy ledge & crimps then big open moves for about four or so moves then sketchy topout

Trad 8m
13 Disjointed Illusion

The wide crack.

Trad 8m
23 Snaggle Puss

One of the best lines here - and quite a boulder problem (though gear may be able to be arranged in the undercling). A direct line right of the crack, heading past the good finish jug of 'Pathetic Earthlings...' - straight up the face to the obvious large undercling (crux). Push into it and reach for the big break above.

Trad 8m
18 A Trick of the Tail

A slightly weird experience. Climb up the body-engulfing trench leading into the roof (behind the 'Nati Beast' launch boulder) - then make a committing series of moves out toward the sunlight (and onto the face). Finish up the obvious flakeline.

Trad 8m
24 Fart'n Fat'n

Jump start off the boulder and climbs the face direct - left of the Nati Beast arete - to join A Trick of the Tail. Established as a toprope, later soloed.

FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin (TR)

Trad 8m
26 Nati Beast

A hidden gem, well worth the trip! Jump start off the boulder to jug on the right, then a series of acrobatic moves gain the right side of the arete, crossing back to the left side approximately 6m up. Committing to say the least. Established as a toprope by the Meffin brothers, but later soloed by Steve Kelly (with no mats!). Has now seen a ground up solo, courtesy of Trent Searcy.

FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin TR

Trad 8m
16 The Right Hand Roof Crack

The body-engulfing trench left of 'The Shrinker'. Climb/chimney up to the roof - then go out towards the light. Finish as for 'The Shrinker'.

Trad 8m
20 The Shrinker

The good looking line on the righthand end of the cliff, with a steep start on good holds, then finishing more delicately just right of the corner.

Trad 8m
10 Freckle Cat and Doktor Trad 8m
Amphitheatre Rock
15 Instability Trad 9m
17 Setting Up Camp Trad 9m
15 Belayer Terror Trad 8m
20 Facing Up Trad 9m

Showing all 38 routes.