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This is a good little area with short climbs you can walk off. This area in the bob McMahon guide has some inaccuracies so beware.

Access issues inherited from Ben Lomond

It is a national park.


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Grade Route
17 Querencia Trad 30m

Left hand corner of alcove. Corner crack to offwidth.

17 ** Suerte Trad 30m

The right hand corner of the alcove. Good jamming and bridging.

18 ** Huevada Trad 33m

Clean hand crack up to small roof, then traverse horizontally right on good faceholds to join Coronada. Desperate thrashing through the offwidth roof to a big ledge (belay possible), then continue up easy squeeze chimney and short, steep offwidth above.

FA: Keith Lockwood

19 Coronada Trad 33m

Next crack to the right of Huevada with two small shrubs growing in it. Thin jams widening to hands and eventually a six inch offwidth through a roof! After the ledge follow the easier chimney to top of the buttress.

18 ** Picador Trad 10m

The short but appealing crack down and just R of the main Bullfighter Buttress cliff.

FA: John Smart & Shane Carson, 1979


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