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Access issues inherited from Ben Lomond

It is a national park.


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Very sustained jamming.

Access via the first offwidth/chimney pitch of Rigudon, then climb 2m up and left into the line. P1 (30m, 22) - Excellent, sustained climbing following the finger sized crack, with many good (but loose) faceholds on the left. P2 (30m, 18)- Continue up the line.

Boldly climb the vague seam-crack and arete of the pillar between Defender of the Faith and Rigaudon to a stance at the top of the pillar. Continue up either of these routes to the top.

P1 (40m, 18)- Start off the Donga in the splitter hand crack. Optional belay on the ledge at 15m, or continue for another 25m up the widening crack to the next ledge.

P2 (40m, 18) burly crack climbing that passes through an overhanging bulge and gets quite wide at times. The rock quality deteriorates significantly towards the top.

An alternate first pitch to Rajah which 'eliminates' the most beautiful bit of pure hand crack on Rajah. Climb the thin crack immediately right of Ramadan to the first ledge on Rajah.

Classic sustained layback corner.

The dark corner just to the left of Barbe Di Vendetta with the singular crack line spearing straight up past a small rooflet formed by a rectangular block. Two pitches -

  1. 35 m 21. An amazing pitch. Fingerlock, layback, stem, jam and chimney the corner to a small ledge and comfy belay behind a large block at 35m.

  2. 45 m 19. Continue up the line and through the roof about 15 m above the belay. Step left for a few metres, then back to the right and continue to top on rock of lesser quality.

Start - About 10 m right of 'The Donger' at the obvious splitter handcrack.

  1. 25m - Jam the crack, passing several small ledges. Belay on the biggest one where the hand-sized crack continues in a corner. Can be linked with pitch 2 if you have enough gear.

  2. 25m - Jam and layback the corner up to a stance on a small ledge where the crack thins. Place some good wires, take a deep breath, and launch up the face and arete on the right until its possible to step back left to a large chossy ledge with a giant flake below twin cracks.

  3. 40m - Jam and bridge the twin cracks for about 15m, then carefully negotiate the choss to the top. This pitch is much longer than the guidebook suggests.

FA: Gerry & Nick

The LH crack several lines to the left.

So named because the eponymous German dogged his way seconding up. Climbs the crack splitting the semi-detached column above Split Surprises.

Face climb to 5m, traverse R into horrid, mossy crack, then belay amongst spikey bushes on the ledge above.

FA: Chris Elliott & Johannes Kirschner, 17 Jan 2014


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