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Grade Route
19 Late For Sky Trad 90m
19 35mm Dream Trad 90m
21 Accursed Land Trad 100m
22 Warsaw '81 Trad 10m
21 Gaebolg Trad 120m
22 Stylistic Trad 150m
20 Abu Nidal Trad
20 Cuchulain Trad 130m
20 ** Hickory Wind Trad 35m
21 Conchubar Trad 130m

A long, ever widening off-width.

FA: duh....

20 *** Laendler Trad 170m 5

FA: R.Thomson & B.Kennedy, 1978

18 *** Rock-a-day Johnny Trad 180m
24 ** Lay Lady Lay Trad 170m 9

Blast up the middle of the Laendler Face. Sure to keep you smiling for a day or two. Take a biggish range of gear from tips to the #6 camolot. Doubles up to #4 camalot, maybe some triples of tips to #1 could also calm your nerves. Start 30m R of Laendler at a prominent NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column (as for Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door).

  1. 25m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge.

  2. 25m 24. "The Fire Cracker" - On right side of ledge up past a flared hand jam start heading towards the roof, climbing on the right side of the fin. Traverse left under roof and finish on a ledge a few meters up and left.

  3. 20m 16. Step back right and climb the line above, eventually break out left on face holds to access the ledge and the start of "the squeeze".

  4. 10m 17. "The squeeze" - take some big gear!

  5. 25m 19. Straight up twin cracks via some tricky layway moves. Belay on high ledge or take a few extra mid sized cams and link pitch 5 and 6.

  6. 12m 23. More tricky moves eventually give way to hand jams. Provides an exciting end to this climb.

  7. 10m 10. Head up the ridge until you can sneak around left to the start of pitch

  8. 25m 18. As for Rock-A-Day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.

  9. 25m. Scramble to the top. Descent is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.

FA: Gary Phillips & Jake Bresnehan, 2009


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