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Table of contents

1. Bicheno 84 routes in Crag

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.309503, -41.887397

1.1. Lookout Rock 4 routes in Area

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.305390, -41.877190

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Life Threatening Blood Clot 22Unknown 8m
2 * Economy Class Syndrome 20Unknown 25m
3 ** Deep Vein Thrombosis 26Unknown 15m
4 * Corn Flakes

This climb is located on the path, up to the lookout, on the L. There is a wall with a Flake/crack on the R side. Follow this to top. No recording of any previous ascent.

FA: David Barnes, 2005

17Unknown 12m

1.2. The Blowhole Area (bouldering) 20 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.308607, -41.879310

1.2.1. Whale Boulder 5 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.308531, -41.880455


South facing slightly overhanging wall


About 40 metres south of the Blowhole

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sperm Whale

Sitstart on low hold, hit arete to the left and up

2 * Right Whale

Project - Same start as Sperm Whale, blast high and right to side pull-ish feature and then up.

V10Boulder Project
3 * Minke Whale

Sit - Up on Flakes

4 Blue Whale

Stand - Flakes to high topout. SDS is a project

5 ** Humpback Arete

Sit - Classic steep arete to slopey topout on right hand end of boulder.


1.2.2. Blowhole Walls 0 routes in Boulder


There are some great vertical to slightly overhanging square cut walls below and south of the Blowhole. Most if not all of these problems depend on a low tide and swell.


Directly below and South of Blowhole

1.2.3. Blowhole Boulder 1 route in Area


Long/Lat: 148.308728, -41.880168

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Blow Job V8Boulder

1.2.4. Exploding Crystals Boulders 4 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.308335, -41.879619


Three freestanding boulders. Rock isn't as good as some of the other boulders and tends to be a bit gravelly.


About 40m north of the Blowhole

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Left Cleft

Start on slopey protrusions at the base of the left cleft. Slap up and left to the lip and fight upwards.

2 * High Tide

Sit start side pulling on the furthest left side pull/crack feature to the right of Left Cleft. Top out straight up.

3 Drowned

Around right arete of boulder High Tide is on, pull on two slopey edges stand starting and mantle the boulder.

4 ** V5

V5, sit start about 1.5 metres left of left cleft. mantle onto the boulder from slopers.


1.2.5. Mushroom Boulder 1 route in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.308202, -41.879550


Obvious mushroom-like looking boulder, problem faces inland.


Next to the Exploding Crystals Boulders, maybe 5m away.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Mushroom

SDS - Pull up using crack and anything else, gain sloppy arete and then topout.


1.2.6. Crab Boulders 9 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.308732, -41.879039


Mostly slabby to vertical walls.


These boulders are about another 50m north of the Exploding Crystals Boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hermit Crab

Heel hook start then up hanging arete. (SDS)

2 Easy Slab


3 Mud Crab


4 VE


5 North Side VE

The next few problems are on the northern side of the boulders.

6 V2 Arete

Arete in the centre. (SDS)

7 * Giant Crab

Flakes then up centre of block. (Stand)

8 V0


9 Inner Slab

There are a few easy slab problems in the crack in between the boulders. (Stand)


1.2.7. Gaston Wall 0 routes in Boulder


Nice wall.


Some way back towards the land from the Crab Boulders.

1.3. Suntrap Cove 0 routes in Area


Halfway between Crab Boulders and The Block Area is a small cove with several large boulders on the southern side.

1.4. The Block Area 24 routes in Area

Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.310123, -41.876676

1.4.1. The Wall 8 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.309929, -41.876744

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V3 V3Boulder
2 ** 2. Another Brick in the Wall V4Boulder
3 3. V0 (SDS) V0Boulder
4 4. Wall of China V5Boulder
5 5. Berlin Wall V6Boulder
6 6. V0 V0Boulder
7 7. V2 (SDS) V2Boulder
8 8. V8 V8Boulder

1.4.2. The Block 3 routes in Area

Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.310095, -41.876706

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V3/4 Stand V4Boulder
2 Problem 1. Unknown
3 Problem 2. V5Boulder

1.4.3. The Orange Slab 5 routes in Area

Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.310076, -41.876630

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V2/3 V3Boulder
2 2. V? Project Unknown
3 3. V6? Project Unknown
4 4. Fully Sick Mate V4Boulder
5 5. V1 V1Boulder

1.4.4. The Black Slab 5 routes in Area

Boulder and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V? ?Unknown
2 VE VEUnknown
3 V1 V1Boulder
4 The Black Slab V1Boulder
5 V0 V0Boulder

1.4.5. The White Slab 3 routes in Area

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V1 V1Boulder
2 V0 V0Boulder
3 The White Slab V2Boulder

1.5. Peggys Point 24 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.305986, -41.869993


Couple of great freestanding boulders directly on the coast.


Park near the Silver Sands Resort and walk across the oval and down to the coast.

1.5.1. Abalone Boulder 15 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.306440, -41.870427


This is the more southerly of the two freestanding boulders. It has excellent fine grained rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crab Stick

From jug up left to flake and topout, to the left of Piece of Flake

2 ** Piece of Flake

up large flake to the left of Fish and Chips

3 * Fish and Chips

arete and corner of south-east facing faces

4 Ab Diver

From the curving crack pull up the face. V2 from standing.

5 Lemon and Garlic

Up face left of Soy Sauce, sit start is a project

6 * Soy Sauce

Corner left of Abalone Arete

7 ** Abalone Arete

Sit start at the crack on the arete two metres left of hangman. Move left to big undercling flake on the arete and up.

8 Flathead

Stand start the Crack left of Hangman

9 * Hangman

Sit start the north-west facing face using right hand pinch of the undercling, pull up and gain short hanging crack. Stand start is V1

10 Mullet

SDS - Crack in middle of north-west facing face.

11 V0

Stand start about one metre left of right hand end of mort-west facing face.

12 Kelpie

Stand - Crusty right hand arete of north-west facing face.

13 * V3

Traverse the whole boulder via the top lip.

14 Mullet Sticks

Project - stand start at Mullet and traverse leftward without using the top of the boulder to finish at Crab Stick

V6Boulder Project
15 * Squid Rings

This problem is on a boulder to the north of Abalone Boulder - SDS and up jugs on overhung face.


1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder 9 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.305790, -41.869545


This free standing boulder is less than 100m north of the Abalone Boulder, and has an overhanging east face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Craypot

Up jugs on face

2 ** Craypot direct

Start dangling on slopers over void, throw left heel into groove and mantle into left roof hold, link up onto face

3 ** unknown

Start dangling on slopers just right of Craypot with feet dangling into void, then up through horn onto face and up.

4 Project V3Boulder Project
5 * Tricky Little Bastards V3Boulder
6 ** The Crayfish

Sit start up through cool weird features

7 ** The Crawfish

As for 'The Crayfish' but eliminate the easy jug, burly undercling up to protruding corner and up.

8 *** The Belly scraper

Jump start then easy mantle

9 ** Crackpot traverse V3Boulder

1.6. Diamond Island 0 routes in Area


Diamond Island has some nice freestanding boulders and walls on its seaward side.


To get there park at Redbill Point and walk north along the beach to the spit which connects the island to the mainland. At low tied you should be able to easily walk across. Walk around the southern side of the island for about 5 minutes or so until you get to the south east corner where the boulders start.

1.7. Little Beach 0 routes in Area


Little Beach is around 35 km north of Bicheno


Several km's past the Elephant Pass turn off look for the Little Beach sign almost at the bottom of a dip. Head down to the beach, then north, the boulder is in the first alcove along the beach

1.8. Harvey's farm headland 12 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.322166, -41.917190


Drive south on Harvey's Farm road, there is a small parking area next to 329 and follow the track down to the beach. Then turn right (south) and rock hop down the beach 20 minutes, roughly a km, until the headland gets more rugged.

1.8.1. Moby dick cave 1 route in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.322908, -41.916648


The first feature you come to which looks climbable, it looks like a white whale swimming towards the ocean with a cave under it's belly.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The eye

Easy but exposed mantle stepping up through the eye of the whale.


1.8.2. Aplite wall #1 1 route in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.322826, -41.916785


Lots of potential for easy fun, and nice on your hands problems

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The crack Boulder

1.8.3. Granite cave 3 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.322952, -41.916835


The cave, while angled, is well protected, the wall underneath would have good problems if you had a bunch of pads.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roof crack Boulder
2 2 Boulder
3 3 Boulder

1.8.4. Aplite wall #2 1 route in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.323096, -41.916916

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Epic traverse Boulder

1.8.5. Arete boulder 3 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.321553, -41.917931


From the other cluster of problems on the headland, head straight up hill over some slabs where you might find a couple cairns. You can see the large arete boulder on the other side but have to skirt high around the steep gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Arete

Up blunt overhanging hard arete. Has a hanger at top and bottom for working. Apparently a many stars, potentially hardest project in Tas?

Boulder Project
2 Left Boulder
3 Middle Boulder

1.8.6. Lower Boulder 3 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 148.321817, -41.918045


This is the large boulder just below the Black Arete Boulder


Approach is the same as to the Black Arete Boulder, from there just head down the gully directly to the boulder

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1 Boulder
2 2 Boulder
3 3 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB Easy Slab Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
North Side VE Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
VE Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
V0 Inner Slab Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
V0 Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
3. V0 (SDS) Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
6. V0 Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
V0 Boulder 1.4.4. The Black Slab
V0 Boulder 1.4.5. The White Slab
* Fish and Chips Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
* Soy Sauce Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
* Squid Rings Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
V0 Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
** The Crayfish Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
The eye Boulder 1.8.1. Moby dick cave
17 * Corn Flakes Unknown 12m 1.1. Lookout Rock
V1 Blue Whale Boulder 1.2.1. Whale Boulder
5. V1 Boulder 1.4.3. The Orange Slab
The Black Slab Boulder 1.4.4. The Black Slab
V1 Boulder 1.4.4. The Black Slab
V1 Boulder 1.4.5. The White Slab
Flathead Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
Lemon and Garlic Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
** Piece of Flake Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
* Craypot Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
20 * Economy Class Syndrome Unknown 25m 1.1. Lookout Rock
V2 * Giant Crab Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
Mud Crab Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
V2 Arete Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
7. V2 (SDS) Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
The White Slab Boulder 1.4.5. The White Slab
Kelpie Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
Mullet Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
** The Crawfish Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
22 Life Threatening Blood Clot Unknown 8m 1.1. Lookout Rock
V3 * Minke Whale Boulder 1.2.1. Whale Boulder
* High Tide Boulder 1.2.4. Exploding Crystals Boulders
1. V3 Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
1. V2/3 Boulder 1.4.3. The Orange Slab
Crab Stick Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
* V3 Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
** Crackpot traverse Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
Project Boulder Project 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
*** The Belly scraper Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
* Tricky Little Bastards Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
** unknown Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
V4 Drowned Boulder 1.2.4. Exploding Crystals Boulders
** 2. Another Brick in the Wall Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
V3/4 Stand Boulder 1.4.2. The Block
4. Fully Sick Mate Boulder 1.4.3. The Orange Slab
** Abalone Arete Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
** Craypot direct Boulder 1.5.2. Crayfish Boulder
V5 ** Humpback Arete Boulder 1.2.1. Whale Boulder
** V5 Boulder 1.2.4. Exploding Crystals Boulders
* Hermit Crab Boulder 1.2.6. Crab Boulders
4. Wall of China Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
Problem 2. Boulder 1.4.2. The Block
Ab Diver Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
26 ** Deep Vein Thrombosis Unknown 15m 1.1. Lookout Rock
V6 * Sperm Whale Boulder 1.2.1. Whale Boulder
5. Berlin Wall Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
Mullet Sticks Boulder Project 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
V7 * The Mushroom Boulder 1.2.5. Mushroom Boulder
V8 *** Blow Job Boulder 1.2.3. Blowhole Boulder
* Left Cleft Boulder 1.2.4. Exploding Crystals Boulders
8. V8 Boulder 1.4.1. The Wall
* Hangman Boulder 1.5.1. Abalone Boulder
V10 * Right Whale Boulder Project 1.2.1. Whale Boulder
? Problem 1. Unknown 1.4.2. The Block
2. V? Project Unknown 1.4.3. The Orange Slab
3. V6? Project Unknown 1.4.3. The Orange Slab
The crack Boulder 1.8.2. Aplite wall #1
2 Boulder 1.8.3. Granite cave
3 Boulder 1.8.3. Granite cave
Roof crack Boulder 1.8.3. Granite cave
Epic traverse Boulder 1.8.4. Aplite wall #2
Black Arete Boulder Project 1.8.5. Arete boulder
Left Boulder 1.8.5. Arete boulder
Middle Boulder 1.8.5. Arete boulder
1 Boulder 1.8.6. Lower Boulder
2 Boulder 1.8.6. Lower Boulder
3 Boulder 1.8.6. Lower Boulder
V? Unknown 1.4.4. The Black Slab
VE VE Unknown 1.4.4. The Black Slab