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Table of contents
- 1. Black Hill
97 in Crag
- 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor 10 in Crag
- 1.2. The Northern Group 64 in Crag
- 1.3. Summit Boulders 3 in Crag
- 1.4. Toucan Tor 3 in Crag
- 1.5. Mushroom Rock 9 in Crag
- 1.6. Hollow Rock 5 in Crag
- 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor 3 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
Long/Lat: 144.488692, -37.185911
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Slabby granite tors. A mini version of the You Yangs but with shade.
- Access Issues:
Take the Calder Hwy out of Melbourne. Get off at the Kyneton exit and head into town. Turn R onto the Edgecombe-Eppalock Rd.
Drive about 6km. When the road turns to the R turn R into Ennis Rd. Follow Ennis Rd for 750m and park at the gate and information shelter.
There are two entry points into the reserve. The ‘Front Gate’ entrance is located on the north western side of the reserve, whilst the ‘Back Gate’ is located on the south eastern side of the reserve.
‘Back Gate’ access: Calder Freeway to Kyneton exit and then right at the roundabout and take C326 Heathcote - Kyneton Rd and head towards Edgecombe. Pass Verekers Lane then turn right into Hallorans Lane. Drive to the end of the road and turn left at the T junction onto Black Hill Rd (unsealed) and follow this for 1.7km to a turnaround and gate (Back Gate). Park at the gate and enter the reserve.
Back Gate approach: From the Back Gate car park follow the trail until you hit the Circuit Track and turn right. Follow the Circuit Track until you arrive at the 1st of 2 picnic benches located near eachother. The large boulder on the left is The Monolith Boulder.
Long/Lat: 144.489758, -37.181977
From the car park go through the gate and follow the jeep track to the left. After about 500m veer right, uphill onto the ridge track. After another 200m you'll come to a sign saying 'Ridge Track 1.7k'. Follow this for another 50m. 'Virgin Summit Tor' is on the right. The first route you come to will be 'Wuss in Boots'.
|1||Wuss in Boots||22||314m,|
|2||Dicky Knee's Dihedral||21||212m,|
|3||The Malmsbury Dihedral||25||10m|
|4||The Malmsbury Kid||25||10m|
Slab L of Russell's Megaroute
2m L of Russell's Megaroute and better than it too. Toprope.
No 11 YKK (The Big Zipper)
Very fine fused seam behind a large tree. Goes clean but the bolt mentioned in the previous guide does not appear to be there.
On the block immediately E from Virgin Summit Tor.
Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189
Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem.
FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.
|2||Half Man, Half Biscuit||17||15m|
Pumping Ugly Muscle
Re established via V7/8 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling then continue.
Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.
Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.
|6||Barefoot and Pregnant||19||323m,|
|7||Sink the Sausage||18||323m,|
FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes
Long Neck Stubbies
This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011
Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.
FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995
|15||The Cult Master||24||25m|
Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010
Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.
Rough Diamond **
Intricate climbing on feature granite.
FA: Andrew Stevens
|23||Touch and Go||17||320m,|
Scratch and Sniff **
Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.
FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985
|25||Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business)||26||30m|
Sport and Trad
|2||Squeal Like a Pig||21||426m,|
Bolt Like A Bush Pig
4 BRs, first with fixed hanger
|5||Maid to Undress in the Wilderness||21||423m,|
|6||Work the Meat||20||222m,|
|7||Fear of a Black Planet||20||20m|
|9||Passionate Public Petting||18||214m,|
|2||Four-eyed and Bumless||21||30m|
|3||FB Direct Finish||21||25m|
|4||Cruising for Meat||17||211m,|
|7||Porking in Paradise||21||17m,|
|10||Shark's Fin Soup||17||325m,|
|13||Partners in Crime||21||212m,|
|14||Crimes of Passion||19||212m,|
|15||Hard Shit's Bastard Brother||20||16m,|
|18||Squishing Putrid Flesh||18||420m,|
|22||Three Moves to Glory||23||110m,|
|23||Hit With a Blunt Instrument||12||6m|
The New Purgatory
FA: Steve Holloway, 2010
Bolts on Granite Slab
Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.
FA: Mark Rewi, 2010
Bolts on Granite Slab II
Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.
Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.
Go Dog Go
Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.
Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.
FA: Amanda Holloway
|2||Attack of the Killer Dunny Budgies||18||15m|
|2||Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun||17||12m|
Start below ML. Traverse up dyke past 2 FH (crux)to gain arête. Finish past 2RB to DRB anchor.
Pull the Ripcord
New ring bolt at start protects step onto climb from rapidly decaying tree. Enjoy!
Eject Eject Eject
Climbs middle of slab left of PTR. Start as per PTR. Clip 3rd bolt then travers to first bolt on SnL. Direct up thin face past 2 glue in carrots.
|5||Snakes and Ladders||19||13m|
Little slab with right leading seam with BR below Pull the Ripcord
FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003
Maximillian Lion Heart
Orange wall 15 metres right of Pull the Ripcord. Face climb up 3 RBs to a DRB lower off.
FFA: Steven Wilson, 2011
The Donkey that Bolted
Directly opposite Binder. Stem start.
FA: Robin Holmes