A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Black Hill 98 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.488692, -37.185911

Unique Features And Strengths:

Slabby granite tors. A mini version of the You Yangs but with shade.

Access Issues:

Forest Reserve

Approach:

Take the Calder Hwy out of Melbourne. Get off at the Kyneton exit and head into town. Turn R onto the Edgecombe-Eppalock Rd.

Drive about 6km. When the road turns to the R turn R into Ennis Rd. Follow Ennis Rd for 750m and park at the gate and information shelter.

There are two entry points into the reserve. The ‘Front Gate’ entrance is located on the north western side of the reserve, whilst the ‘Back Gate’ is located on the south eastern side of the reserve.

‘Back Gate’ access: Calder Freeway to Kyneton exit and then right at the roundabout and take C326 Heathcote - Kyneton Rd and head towards Edgecombe. Pass Verekers Lane then turn right into Hallorans Lane. Drive to the end of the road and turn left at the T junction onto Black Hill Rd (unsealed) and follow this for 1.7km to a turnaround and gate (Back Gate). Park at the gate and enter the reserve.

Back Gate approach: From the Back Gate car park follow the trail until you hit the Circuit Track and turn right. Follow the Circuit Track until you arrive at the 1st of 2 picnic benches located near eachother. The large boulder on the left is The Monolith Boulder.

1.1. Virgin Summit Tor 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.489758, -37.181977

Description:

From the car park go through the gate and follow the jeep track to the left. After about 500m veer right, uphill onto the ridge track. After another 200m you'll come to a sign saying 'Ridge Track 1.7k'. Follow this for another 50m. 'Virgin Summit Tor' is on the right. The first route you come to will be 'Wuss in Boots'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wuss in Boots 22 Sport 14m, 3
2 Dicky Knee's Dihedral 21 Sport 12m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 The Malmsbury Dihedral 25 Sport 10m
4 The Malmsbury Kid 25 Sport 10m
5 Panda-monium 17 Sport 9m
6 Russell's Megaroute 16 Sport 6m, 1
7 Slab L of Russell's Megaroute

2m L of Russell's Megaroute and better than it too. Toprope.

16 Sport 9m
8 Cushy 13 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 No 11 YKK (The Big Zipper)

Very fine fused seam behind a large tree. Goes clean but the bolt mentioned in the previous guide does not appear to be there.

M6 Aid 15m
10 * Sticky Fingers

On the block immediately E from Virgin Summit Tor.

18 Sport 8m, 4

1.2. The Northern Group 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189

Description:

From 'Virgin Summit Tor' go another 50m along the Ridge Track than veer L and down to find 'Half Man, Half Biscuit'.

Use the area topo to orient yourself from here.

1.2.1. Upper Tier 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Highball Crack

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem.

FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.

26 Trad 10m
2 Half Man, Half Biscuit 17 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Pumping Ugly Muscle

Re established via V7/8 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling then continue.

28 Sport 30m, 6
4 Ugly Voyage

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.

26 Sport 20m
5 * Bon Voyage

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

25 Sport 20m, 3
6 * Barefoot and Pregnant 19 Sport 23m, 3
7 Sink the Sausage 18 Sport 23m, 3
8 * Long Sausage

FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes

18 Sport 4
9 Long Neck Stubbies

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

17 Sport 21m, 3
10 Deceit

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

14 Sport 20m, 3
11 Castel Vlad

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

18 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Bolt Ladder 21 Sport 6m, 3
13 The Moon 17 Sport 6m, 2
14 Acid Rain

From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.

25 Sport 26m
15 The Cult Master 24 Sport 25m
16 Anguish

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

27 Sport 20m
17 ** Havoc 24 Sport 23m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 * Thin Ice 18 Sport 25m
19 * Milawa

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

17 Sport 23m, 5
20 * Rough Diamond **

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

18 Sport 23m, 5
21 Greenpiece 22 Sport 12m, 2
22 Frogs Hollow 14 Sport 25m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Touch and Go 17 Sport 20m, 3
24 * Scratch and Sniff **

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985

20 Mixed 22m, 2
25 Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) 26 Sport 30m
26 * Gumboot Diplomacy 23 Sport 30m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus 16 Sport 9m, 1

1.2.2. Middle Tier 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clostridium Perfringens 12 Sport 9m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Squeal Like a Pig 21 Sport 26m, 4
3 Bolt Like A Bush Pig

4 BRs, first with fixed hanger

FA: Unknown

21 Sport 26m, 4
4 Animal Husbandry 21 Sport 26m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Maid to Undress in the Wilderness 21 Sport 23m, 4
6 Work the Meat 20 Mixed 22m, 2
7 Fear of a Black Planet 20 Sport 20m
8 Koala Bare 17 Mixed 8m, 1
9 * Passionate Public Petting 18 Sport 14m, 2

1.2.3. Lower Tier 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Neon Knights 22 Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Four-eyed and Bumless 21 Trad 30m
3 FB Direct Finish 21 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Cruising for Meat 17 Sport 11m, 2
5 Penetration 21 Sport 10m, 1
6 Original Sin 13 Sport 15m, 1
7 Porking in Paradise 21 Sport 7m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Static Relief 20 Sport 9m
9 Boulder 20 Sport 9m
10 Shark's Fin Soup 17 Sport 25m, 3
11 Jaws 17 Sport 25m, 2
12 Hard Shit

Languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seems unlikely this was ever led. If it was it wasnt 20! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 FH. Its good

22 Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Partners in Crime 21 Sport 12m, 2
14 Crimes of Passion 19 Sport 12m, 2
15 Hard Shit's Bastard Brother 20 Sport 6m, 1
16 Shredded Evidence 17 Sport 8m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Los Andes 18 Sport 8m, 1
18 Squishing Putrid Flesh 18 Sport 20m, 4
19 Access Crack 14 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Large Format 20 Sport 13m, 1
21 Romper Stomper 25 Sport 15m
22 Three Moves to Glory 23 Mixed 10m, 1
23 Hit With a Blunt Instrument 12 Sport 6m
24 Girl Germs 14 Sport 6m
25 The New Purgatory

The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of climb 12: Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock).

FA: Steve Holloway, 2010

20 Sport 10m, 3
26 Bolts on Granite Slab

Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2010

21 Sport 12m, 3
27 Bolts on Granite Slab II

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

21 Sport 14m, 1
28 The Dyke

Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS.

23 Sport
29 Go Dog Go

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

FA: Amanda Holloway

16 Sport 14m, 12

1.3. Summit Boulders 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Half Cracked 17 Sport 6m
2 Attack of the Killer Dunny Budgies 18 Sport 15m
3 Bicentennial Cra(ck)pp 18 Sport 8m

1.4. Toucan Tor 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Beak 12 Sport 6m
2 Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun 17 Sport 12m
3 Bicentennial Fa(r)ce 19 Sport 19m

1.5. Mushroom Rock 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 144.488949, -37.188845

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Sweat 18 Sport 12m, 3
2 Problem Child

Start below ML. Traverse up dyke past 2 FH (crux)to gain arête. Finish past 2RB to DRB anchor.

22 Sport 10m, 4
3 ** Pull the Ripcord

New ring bolt at start protects step onto climb from rapidly decaying tree. Enjoy!

16 Sport 12m
4 * Eject Eject Eject

Climbs middle of slab left of PTR. Start as per PTR. Clip 3rd bolt then travers to first bolt on SnL. Direct up thin face past 2 glue in carrots.

20 Sport 20m, 5
5 Snakes and Ladders 19 Sport 13m
6 Surrogate Kitty

Little slab with right leading seam with BR below Pull the Ripcord

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

14 Sport 7m
7 * Unknown 18 Sport 10m
8 Pete's Route 13 Sport 6m
9 ** Maximillian Lion Heart

Orange wall 15 metres right of Pull the Ripcord. Face climb up 3 RBs to a DRB lower off.

FFA: Steven Wilson, 2011

28 Sport 12m, 3

1.6. Hollow Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheesecake 12 Sport 6m
2 Loose Leaf 14 Sport 6m
3 * Facing Page 16 Sport 8m
4 Binder 19 Sport 10m
5 The Donkey that Bolted

Directly opposite Binder. Stem start.

FA: Robin Holmes

19 Sport 8m

1.7. Ultra Violet Tor 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ultra Violet 23 Sport 15m
2 Pete's Route 13 Sport 6m
3 Aleph 18 Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Clostridium Perfringens Sport 9m, 1 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Hit With a Blunt Instrument Sport 6m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Big Beak Sport 6m 1.4. Toucan Tor
Cheesecake Sport 6m 1.6. Hollow Rock
13 Cushy Sport 10m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Original Sin Sport 15m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Pete's Route Sport 6m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Pete's Route Sport 6m 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor
14 Deceit Sport 20m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Frogs Hollow Sport 25m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Access Crack Trad 8m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Girl Germs Sport 6m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Surrogate Kitty Sport 7m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Loose Leaf Sport 6m 1.6. Hollow Rock
16 Russell's Megaroute Sport 6m, 1 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Slab L of Russell's Megaroute Sport 9m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Vibrio Parahaemolyticus Sport 9m, 1 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Go Dog Go Sport 14m, 12 1.2.3. Lower Tier
** Pull the Ripcord Sport 12m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
* Facing Page Sport 8m 1.6. Hollow Rock
17 Panda-monium Sport 9m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Half Man, Half Biscuit Trad 15m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Long Neck Stubbies Sport 21m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Milawa Sport 23m, 5 1.2.1. Upper Tier
The Moon Sport 6m, 2 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Touch and Go Sport 20m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Koala Bare Mixed 8m, 1 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Cruising for Meat Sport 11m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Jaws Sport 25m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Shark's Fin Soup Sport 25m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Shredded Evidence Sport 8m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Half Cracked Sport 6m 1.3. Summit Boulders
Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun Sport 12m 1.4. Toucan Tor
18 * Sticky Fingers Sport 8m, 4 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Castel Vlad Sport 10m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Long Sausage Sport 4 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Rough Diamond ** Sport 23m, 5 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Sink the Sausage Sport 23m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Thin Ice Sport 25m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Passionate Public Petting Sport 14m, 2 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Los Andes Sport 8m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Squishing Putrid Flesh Sport 20m, 4 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Attack of the Killer Dunny Budgies Sport 15m 1.3. Summit Boulders
Bicentennial Cra(ck)pp Sport 8m 1.3. Summit Boulders
No Sweat Sport 12m, 3 1.5. Mushroom Rock
* Unknown Sport 10m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Aleph Sport 15m 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor
19 * Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 23m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Crimes of Passion Sport 12m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Bicentennial Fa(r)ce Sport 19m 1.4. Toucan Tor
Snakes and Ladders Sport 13m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Binder Sport 10m 1.6. Hollow Rock
The Donkey that Bolted Sport 8m 1.6. Hollow Rock
20 * Scratch and Sniff ** Mixed 22m, 2 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Fear of a Black Planet Sport 20m 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Work the Meat Mixed 22m, 2 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Boulder Sport 9m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Hard Shit's Bastard Brother Sport 6m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Large Format Sport 13m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Static Relief Sport 9m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
The New Purgatory Sport 10m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
* Eject Eject Eject Sport 20m, 5 1.5. Mushroom Rock
21 Dicky Knee's Dihedral Sport 12m, 2 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Bolt Ladder Sport 6m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Animal Husbandry Sport 26m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Bolt Like A Bush Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Maid to Undress in the Wilderness Sport 23m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
* Squeal Like a Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab Sport 12m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab II Sport 14m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
FB Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Four-eyed and Bumless Trad 30m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Partners in Crime Sport 12m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Penetration Sport 10m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Porking in Paradise Sport 7m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
22 Wuss in Boots Sport 14m, 3 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Greenpiece Sport 12m, 2 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Hard Shit Sport 8m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Neon Knights Sport 14m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Problem Child Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Mushroom Rock
23 * Gumboot Diplomacy Sport 30m, 5 1.2.1. Upper Tier
The Dyke Sport 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Three Moves to Glory Mixed 10m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
* Ultra Violet Sport 15m 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor
24 ** Havoc Sport 23m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
The Cult Master Sport 25m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
25 The Malmsbury Dihedral Sport 10m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
The Malmsbury Kid Sport 10m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Acid Rain Sport 26m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Bon Voyage Sport 20m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Romper Stomper Sport 15m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
26 * Highball Crack Trad 10m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) Sport 30m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Ugly Voyage Sport 20m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
27 Anguish Sport 20m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
28 * Pumping Ugly Muscle Sport 30m, 6 1.2.1. Upper Tier
** Maximillian Lion Heart Sport 12m, 3 1.5. Mushroom Rock
M6 No 11 YKK (The Big Zipper) Aid 15m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor