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Table of contents

1. Black Hill 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.488692, -37.185911

Unique Features And Strengths:

Slabby granite tors. A mini version of the You Yangs but with shade.

Access Issues:

Forest Reserve

Approach:

Take the Calder Hwy out of Melbourne. Get off at the Kyneton exit and head into town. Turn R onto the Edgecombe-Eppalock Rd.

Drive about 6km. When the road turns to the R turn R into Ennis Rd. Follow Ennis Rd for 750m and park at the gate and information shelter.

There are two entry points into the reserve. The ‘Front Gate’ entrance is located on the north western side of the reserve, whilst the ‘Back Gate’ is located on the south eastern side of the reserve.

‘Back Gate’ access: Calder Freeway to Kyneton exit and then right at the roundabout and take C326 Heathcote - Kyneton Rd and head towards Edgecombe. Pass Verekers Lane then turn right into Hallorans Lane. Drive to the end of the road and turn left at the T junction onto Black Hill Rd (unsealed) and follow this for 1.7km to a turnaround and gate (Back Gate). Park at the gate and enter the reserve.

Back Gate approach: From the Back Gate car park follow the trail until you hit the Circuit Track and turn right. Follow the Circuit Track until you arrive at the 1st of 2 picnic benches located near eachother. The large boulder on the left is The Monolith Boulder.

1.1. Virgin Summit Tor 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.489758, -37.181977

Description:

From the car park go through the gate and follow the jeep track to the left. After about 500m veer right, uphill onto the ridge track. After another 200m you'll come to a sign saying 'Ridge Track 1.7k'. Follow this for another 50m. 'Virgin Summit Tor' is on the right. The first route you come to will be 'Wuss in Boots'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wuss in Boots 22Sport 14m, 3
2 Dicky Knee's Dihedral 21Sport 12m, 2 Will Monks 10 years ago

Looks good but there's something missing from the start for it to be 21! (a BIG cairn!) Crucial f...

. 12 years ago

desperate start. Felt more like 23/24

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 The Malmsbury Dihedral 25Sport 10m
4 The Malmsbury Kid 25Sport 10m
5 Panda-monium 17Sport 9m Peter Brookes 1 years ago

Very Straight forward.

Andrew Clark 3 years ago

Due to vast quantities of moss and sun in the eyes, I did the pikers variant: traversed out left ...

6 Russell's Megaroute 16Sport 6m, 1 Andrew Clark 3 years ago

Don't yard out on the flake too hard. Top few moves feel a long, long way above that rusty bolt.

Cameron McKenzie 9 years ago

With Trinh

7 Slab L of Russell's Megaroute

2m L of Russell's Megaroute and better than it too. Toprope.

16Sport 9m
8 Cushy 13Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 No 11 YKK (The Big Zipper)

Very fine fused seam behind a large tree. Goes clean but the bolt mentioned in the previous guide does not appear to be there.

M6Aid 15m Andrew Clark 3 years ago

Took a fall on this, fortunately I'd hung a rope with a butterfly around the height old bolt so I...

Nick de Kam 3 years ago

No bolt, hooked instead. Went clean.

10 * Sticky Fingers

On the block immediately E from Virgin Summit Tor.

18Sport 8m, 4 Peter Brookes 1 years ago

Nice, forgot to clip the top bolt, Opps!

Craig Smith 9 years ago

Stacks of bolts

1.2. The Northern Group 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189

Description:

From 'Virgin Summit Tor' go another 50m along the Ridge Track than veer L and down to find 'Half Man, Half Biscuit'.

Use the area topo to orient yourself from here.

1.2.1. Upper Tier 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Half Man, Half Biscuit 17Trad 15m Peter Brookes 1 years ago

Not very nice, The leader backed of so I finished the crux.

matt schnabl 7 years ago

thought i'd give the crack a go, great cam placements. backed off, my jamming is crap

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Pumping Ugly Muscle 25Sport 30m, 6
3 Ugly Voyage 25Sport 32m
4 * Bon Voyage 23Sport 30m, 3 . 12 years ago

classic sharp face. Exit onto slab probably 24/25 now ...

5 * Barefoot and Pregnant 19Sport 23m, 3 Andrew Clark 3 years ago

Phil led this with a preplaced, extended first draw. In hindsight this really wasn't necessary, ...

Andrew Scott 7 years ago

Would be a solid lead. Very high first bolt.

6 Sink the Sausage 18Sport 23m, 3 Andrew Clark 3 years ago

Phil did well on this. The anchor is a long, long way from the top bolt over a large amount of l...

Cameron McKenzie 8 years ago

With Neets

7 * Long Sausage

FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes

18Sport 4
8 Long Neck Stubbies

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

17Sport 21m, 3 Anthony 2 years ago

Nice one. Have to lead it next time.

Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago

This route has been downgraded in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011.

9 Deceit

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

14Sport 20m, 3 Anthony 2 years ago

Tan lead

Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

10 Castel Vlad

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

18Sport 10m Ann Redfern 8 years ago

Nice short climb

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Bolt Ladder 21Sport 6m, 3
12 The Moon 17Sport 6m, 2 . 8 years ago

oh william, you made it look all too easy...

fernando 10 years ago

2nd cam

13 Acid Rain 25Sport 26m
14 The Cult Master 24Sport 25m
15 The Cult Master Direct (bolted project) 26Sport 20m Will Monks 8 years ago

toproped 1st half clean (24?) then it got very messy.... screaming tips

16 ** Havoc 24Sport 23m Will Monks 8 years ago

will try for the 3rd shot onsight next time. Not enough fingertips today. 25.9.05 TR to crux

Alister Robertson 8 years ago

2 goes. blew the onsight after the crux moss patch started breaking apart, and the moss footers b...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 * Thin Ice 18Sport 25m Andrew 13 years ago

Nice for the grade

18 * Milawa

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

17Sport 23m, 5 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Got the fear and hung on a few bolts. Very slabby!

Anthony 3 years ago

Really nice. Scary lead when you haven't climbed slabs for awhile. Tan 2nd.

19 * Rough Diamond **

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

18Sport 23m, 5 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Good. Flake up high is very hollow.

Peter Brookes 1 years ago

Great Climb.

20 Greenpiece 22Sport 12m, 2 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

So very, very thin. Hauled on the first bolt to get up, don't think it'd go any time soon.

21 Frogs Hollow 14Sport 25m, 3 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

One-move wonder, but alright.

Anthony 3 years ago

Tan led

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 Touch and Go 17Sport 20m, 3 Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago

Reachy if your short moves on a thin footholds to clip the 1st bolt.

Anthony 3 years ago

Over all too quickly. Tan 2nd.

23 * Scratch and Sniff **

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985

20Mixed 22m, 2 Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago

Delicate down low, followed by very nice moves up a thin crack and slab to bomber RP placements.

Will Monks 9 years ago

Awesome, best route I've done at Black Hill - bit bold though. 2nd again 25/9/05

24 Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) 26Sport 30m
25 * Gumboot Diplomacy 23Sport 30m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus 16Sport 9m, 1

1.2.2. Middle Tier 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clostridium Perfringens 12Sport 9m, 1 Ann Redfern 8 years ago

Needs a good clean

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Squeal Like a Pig 21Sport 26m, 4 Neil Monteith 9 years ago

I was over crappy granite slabs by the tiem i got on this one!

3 Bolt Like A Bush Pig

4 BRs, first with fixed hanger

FA: Unknown

21Sport 26m, 4 Ann Redfern 8 years ago

Great on second, hate to lead it though

4 Animal Husbandry 21Sport 26m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Maid to Undress in the Wilderness 21Sport 23m, 4
6 * Work the Meat 20Mixed 22m, 2 Will Monks 8 years ago

give it a clean before you head up into groundfall territory!

Craig Smith 9 years ago

Nice. Bomber small wire at the break.

7 Fear of a Black Planet 20Sport 20m Will Monks 8 years ago

tricky start to a lovely central slab section

. 12 years ago

very nice slab. Used to be nice and clean..??

8 Koala Bare 17Mixed 8m, 1 Neil Monteith 13 years ago

crux was getting off the top!

9 * Passionate Public Petting 18Sport 14m, 2

1.2.3. Lower Tier 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Neon Knights 22Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Four-eyed and Bumless 21Trad 30m
3 FB Direct Finish 21Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Cruising for Meat 17Sport 11m, 2 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Got spat off at the first bolt. Nice clean arete, but very tough.

Anthony 2 years ago

Got to bolt fairly easily but then couldn't work it out. Hard.

5 Penetration 21Sport 10m, 1 . 8 years ago

not too bad.

Neil Monteith 10 years ago

great face moves - very short! use a 90' hanger.

6 Original Sin 13Sport 15m, 1
7 Porking in Paradise 21Sport 7m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Static Relief 20Sport 9m
9 Boulder 20Sport 9m
10 Shark's Fin Soup 17Sport 25m, 3 Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago

Short and sweet.

Andrew Dinning 3 years ago

I found the move to get above the 1st bolt a little awkward. Just had to ‘man up’ and do it

11 Jaws 17Sport 25m, 2 Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago

Short and sweet.

Andrew Clark 3 years ago

This seemed far more straight forward than Russel's Mega Route though it's a grade harder? Maybe...

12 Hard Shit 20Sport 8m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Partners in Crime 21Sport 12m, 2
14 Crimes of Passion 19Sport 12m, 2
15 Hard Shit's Bastard Brother 20Sport 6m, 1
16 Shredded Evidence 17Sport 8m, 1 Neil Monteith 13 years ago

very short friction moves

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Los Andes 18Sport 8m, 1 Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Great 'boulder' problem. Excellent edges.

18 Squishing Putrid Flesh 18Sport 20m, 4
19 Access Crack 14Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Large Format 20Sport 13m, 1
21 Romper Stomper 25Sport 15m
22 Three Moves to Glory 23Mixed 10m, 1
23 Hit With a Blunt Instrument 12Sport 6m
24 Girl Germs 14Sport 6m
25 The New Purgatory

The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of climb 12: Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock).

FA: Steve Holloway, 2010

20Sport 10m, 3
26 Bolts on Granite Slab

Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2010

21Sport 12m, 3
27 Bolts on Granite Slab II

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

21Sport 14m, 1
28 Go Dog Go

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

FA: Amanda Holloway

16Sport 14m, 12

1.3. Summit Boulders 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Half Cracked 17Sport 6m
2 Attack of the Killer Dunny Budgies 18Sport 15m
3 Bicentennial Cra(ck)pp 18Sport 8m

1.4. Toucan Tor 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Beak 12Sport 6m
2 Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun 17Sport 12m
3 Bicentennial Fa(r)ce 19Sport 19m

1.5. Mushroom Rock 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Sweat 18Sport 12m, 3 Anthony 2 years ago

Tough start. Should have traversed instead of trying to go up and would have gone clean.

2 ** Pull the Ripcord 16Sport 12m . 8 years ago

Great face route. savour the position on the tree... they don't come much better !!

Will Monks 8 years ago

kneebars, gastons, heelhooks and handjams....and that's just the tree!

3 Snakes and Ladders 19Sport 13m Neil Monteith 9 years ago

5.2.2005 - Great route - nto very sustained. 14.9.2003 Seconded Jono. It was wet but really good....

4 Surrogate Kitty

Little slab with right leading seam with BR below Pull the Ripcord

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

14Sport 7m Anthony 2 years ago

Hardly worth the effort

. 8 years ago

quality K man material.

5 * Unknown 18Sport 10m Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Great big crystals amd a heuco to start.

6 Pete's Route 13Sport 6m
7 ** Maximillian Lion Heart

Orange wall 15 metres right of Pull the Ripcord. Face climb up 3 RBs to a DRB lower off.

FFA: Steven Wilson, 2011

28Sport 12m, 3

1.6. Hollow Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheesecake 12Sport 6m Will Monks 10 years ago

too short

2 Loose Leaf 14Sport 6m matt schnabl 7 years ago

ok, wilson seconded. it's called hollow rock for a reason. just one belay bolt, backed up with mi...

3 * Facing Page 16Sport 8m matt schnabl 7 years ago

lead up after francis had a go, wilson seconded, nice climb

Andrew Scott 7 years ago

Pleasant

4 Binder 19Sport 10m Will Monks 10 years ago

Missing the hidden pocket is winger inducing....

. 12 years ago

nice route... wouldn't advise falling on the crux though !

5 The Donkey that Bolted

Directly opposite Binder. Stem start.

FA: Robin Holmes

19Sport 8m Will Monks 10 years ago

Without stemming it'll be about 25

1.7. Ultra Violet Tor 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ultra Violet 23Sport 15m Alister Robertson 8 years ago

Funky as a monkey

. 8 years ago

best route i've done at black hill !

2 Pete's Route 13Sport 6m
3 Aleph 18Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Clostridium Perfringens Sport 9m, 1 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Hit With a Blunt Instrument Sport 6m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Big Beak Sport 6m 1.4. Toucan Tor
Cheesecake Sport 6m 1.6. Hollow Rock
13 Cushy Sport 10m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Original Sin Sport 15m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Pete's Route Sport 6m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Pete's Route Sport 6m 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor
14 Deceit Sport 20m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Frogs Hollow Sport 25m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Access Crack Trad 8m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Girl Germs Sport 6m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Surrogate Kitty Sport 7m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Loose Leaf Sport 6m 1.6. Hollow Rock
16 Russell's Megaroute Sport 6m, 1 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Slab L of Russell's Megaroute Sport 9m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Vibrio Parahaemolyticus Sport 9m, 1 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Go Dog Go Sport 14m, 12 1.2.3. Lower Tier
** Pull the Ripcord Sport 12m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
* Facing Page Sport 8m 1.6. Hollow Rock
17 Panda-monium Sport 9m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Half Man, Half Biscuit Trad 15m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Long Neck Stubbies Sport 21m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Milawa Sport 23m, 5 1.2.1. Upper Tier
The Moon Sport 6m, 2 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Touch and Go Sport 20m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Koala Bare Mixed 8m, 1 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Cruising for Meat Sport 11m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Jaws Sport 25m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Shark's Fin Soup Sport 25m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Shredded Evidence Sport 8m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Half Cracked Sport 6m 1.3. Summit Boulders
Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun Sport 12m 1.4. Toucan Tor
18 * Sticky Fingers Sport 8m, 4 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Castel Vlad Sport 10m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Long Sausage Sport 4 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Rough Diamond ** Sport 23m, 5 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Sink the Sausage Sport 23m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Thin Ice Sport 25m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Passionate Public Petting Sport 14m, 2 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Los Andes Sport 8m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Squishing Putrid Flesh Sport 20m, 4 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Attack of the Killer Dunny Budgies Sport 15m 1.3. Summit Boulders
Bicentennial Cra(ck)pp Sport 8m 1.3. Summit Boulders
No Sweat Sport 12m, 3 1.5. Mushroom Rock
* Unknown Sport 10m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Aleph Sport 15m 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor
19 * Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 23m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Crimes of Passion Sport 12m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Bicentennial Fa(r)ce Sport 19m 1.4. Toucan Tor
Snakes and Ladders Sport 13m 1.5. Mushroom Rock
Binder Sport 10m 1.6. Hollow Rock
The Donkey that Bolted Sport 8m 1.6. Hollow Rock
20 * Scratch and Sniff ** Mixed 22m, 2 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Fear of a Black Planet Sport 20m 1.2.2. Middle Tier
* Work the Meat Mixed 22m, 2 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Boulder Sport 9m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Hard Shit Sport 8m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Hard Shit's Bastard Brother Sport 6m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Large Format Sport 13m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Static Relief Sport 9m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
The New Purgatory Sport 10m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
21 Dicky Knee's Dihedral Sport 12m, 2 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Bolt Ladder Sport 6m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Animal Husbandry Sport 26m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Bolt Like A Bush Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Maid to Undress in the Wilderness Sport 23m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
* Squeal Like a Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2.2. Middle Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab Sport 12m, 3 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab II Sport 14m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
FB Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Four-eyed and Bumless Trad 30m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Partners in Crime Sport 12m, 2 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Penetration Sport 10m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
Porking in Paradise Sport 7m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
22 Wuss in Boots Sport 14m, 3 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Greenpiece Sport 12m, 2 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Neon Knights Sport 14m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
23 * Bon Voyage Sport 30m, 3 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Gumboot Diplomacy Sport 30m, 5 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Three Moves to Glory Mixed 10m, 1 1.2.3. Lower Tier
* Ultra Violet Sport 15m 1.7. Ultra Violet Tor
24 ** Havoc Sport 23m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
The Cult Master Sport 25m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
25 The Malmsbury Dihedral Sport 10m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
The Malmsbury Kid Sport 10m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor
Acid Rain Sport 26m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
* Pumping Ugly Muscle Sport 30m, 6 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Ugly Voyage Sport 32m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Romper Stomper Sport 15m 1.2.3. Lower Tier
26 The Cult Master Direct (bolted project) Sport 20m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) Sport 30m 1.2.1. Upper Tier
28 ** Maximillian Lion Heart Sport 12m, 3 1.5. Mushroom Rock
M6 No 11 YKK (The Big Zipper) Aid 15m 1.1. Virgin Summit Tor