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Access issues inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route
3

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!

FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.

4
26 *** Spy Works Mixed 15m, 3

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2015

5
24 * Half Man, Half Spy Sport 15m

Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25.

FA: Mark Rewi

6

A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing!

7
28 * Pumping Ugly Muscle Sport 30m, 6

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

8
26 ** Ugly Voyage Sport 20m

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.

9
25 ** Bon Voyage Sport 20m, 3

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

10
19 * Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 23m, 3
11
18 * Sink the Sausage Sport 23m, 3
12
18 ** Long Sausage Sport 4

FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes

13
17 * Long Neck Stubbies Sport 21m, 3

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

14
14 * Deceit Sport 20m, 3

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

15
2 Sideline Trad 8m

Fantastic introduction to lay backing. On the boulder just left of 'Deceit'.

FA: Anne Watson & Pete Holmes, 2002

16
18 * Castel Vlad Sport 10m

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat & Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

17
21 Bolt Ladder Sport 6m, 3
18
17 * The Moon Sport 6m, 2
19
25 Acid Rain Sport 26m

From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.

20
27 * Piranha- Project SportProject 18m

Closed project. Grade will depend how many crystals fall off the fairly desperate slab finish.

21
27 * Anguish Sport 20m

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

22
24 The Cult Master Sport 25m
23
Overlord Sport

Closed Project... essentially a direct start and finish to CM.

24
24 ** Havoc Sport 23m
25
18 ** Thin Ice Sport 25m
26
17 ** Milawa Sport 23m, 5

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

27
18 ** Rough Diamond ** Sport 23m, 5

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

28
22 ** Greenpiece Sport 12m, 2

The right hand wall of the gully between 'Frogs Hollow' and 'Milawa'.

FA: Dayle Gilliat, 1997

29
10 Frogs Hollow Sport 25m, 2

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Single carrot bolt belay, which can be backed up with a sling, large hex, or hand-sized cams in the crack to the right.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1987

30
17 * Touch and Go Sport 20m, 3
31
20 ** Scratch and Sniff ** Mixed 22m, 2

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

FA: Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1985

32
23 Incremental Sport 18m

Direct line via 4 carrots (!) between Scratch and Sniff and Toxic Shock. Will be great if anyone gets round to cleaning it.

FA: Steven Wilson, 2013

34
23 ** Gumboot Diplomacy Sport 30m, 5

Everyone in the know knows Black Hill 23s are all sand bags but this takes it to a new level... Even Law would have been proud! Excellent climbing on a beautiful subtle line. 23 after the crux start which is desperate!

FA: Ian Anger

35
16 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus Sport 9m, 1

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