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Access issues inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve


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Grade Route
26 * Highball Crack Trad 10m

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem.

FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.

28 * Pumping Ugly Muscle Sport 30m, 6

Re established via V7/8 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling then continue.

26 Ugly Voyage Sport 20m

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.

25 * Bon Voyage Sport 20m, 3

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

19 * Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 23m, 3
18 Sink the Sausage Sport 23m, 3
18 * Long Sausage Sport 4

FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes

17 Long Neck Stubbies Sport 21m, 3

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

14 Deceit Sport 20m, 3

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

18 Castel Vlad Sport 10m

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat & Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

21 Bolt Ladder Sport 6m, 3
17 The Moon Sport 6m, 2
25 Acid Rain Sport 26m

From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.

24 The Cult Master Sport 25m
27 Anguish Sport 20m

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

24 ** Havoc Sport 23m
18 * Thin Ice Sport 25m
17 * Milawa Sport 23m, 5

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

18 * Rough Diamond ** Sport 23m, 5

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

22 Greenpiece Sport 12m, 2
14 Frogs Hollow Sport 25m, 3
17 Touch and Go Sport 20m, 3
20 * Scratch and Sniff ** Mixed 22m, 2

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

FA: Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1985

23 * Gumboot Diplomacy Sport 30m, 5
16 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus Sport 9m, 1