Access issues inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve


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Grade Route

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!

FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out. 2018- Apparently some douche has stolen the hangers (which can’t be reached from adjacent crack climbs)

FA: Mark Rewi, 2015

Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25.

A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing!

Half Man Half Biscuit with added spice, this direct variant requires a little bit of jambing, laybacking, stemming and crimping - good value. Up HMHB to a tricky pull over the rooflet then, trending slightly right, follow the bolts up the steepening face. Finish at the top (DBB) or the SpyWorks lower-off below the summit cap.

FA: Martin Jackson & David Nelson, 26 May

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

Fantastic introduction to lay backing. On the boulder just left of 'Deceit'.

FA: Anne Watson & Pete Holmes, 2002

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat & Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.

Sounds appealing! This is actually a pretty good and significantly harder companion for Anguish. Good face climbing leads to a desperate slab finish past last bolt.

FFA: Mark Rewi, Nov 2016

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

Closed Project... essentially a direct start and finish to CM.

Boulder out hard start of Overlord and finish as for Cult Master.

FA: Pete Stebbins & Kevin Lindorff, 1992

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

The right hand wall of the gully between 'Frogs Hollow' and 'Milawa'.

FA: Dayle Gilliat, 1997

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Single carrot bolt belay, which can be backed up with a sling, large hex, or hand-sized cams in the crack to the right.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1987

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements. Ground fall potential below second bolt.

FA: Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1985

Direct line via 4 carrots (!) between Scratch and Sniff and Toxic Shock. Will be great if anyone gets round to cleaning it.

FA: Steven Wilson, 2013

Everyone in the know knows Black Hill 23s are all sand bags but this takes it to a new level... Even Law would have been proud! Excellent climbing on a beautiful subtle line. 23 after the crux start which is desperate!

FA: Ian Anger

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