Topo #11535 - Half Man Block

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Route Grade Popularity Style
3 * Highball Crack

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!

26 Trad 10m Unlink route
4 ** Spy Works

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out.

26 Mixed 15m, 3 Unlink route
5 * Half Man, Half Spy

Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25.

24 Sport 15m Unlink route
6 Half Man, Half Biscuit

A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing!

17 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #393

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Route Grade Popularity Style
6 Half Man, Half Biscuit

A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing!

17 Trad 15m Unlink route
7 * Pumping Ugly Muscle

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

28 Sport 30m, 6 Unlink route
9 * Bon Voyage

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

25 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
10 * Barefoot and Pregnant
19 Sport 23m, 3 Unlink route
11 Sink the Sausage
18 Sport 23m, 3 Unlink route
14 Deceit

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

14 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
17 Bolt Ladder
21 Sport 6m, 3 Unlink route
18 The Moon
17 Sport 6m, 2 Unlink route
24 * Milawa

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

17 Sport 23m, 5 Unlink route
27 Frogs Hollow

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Single carrot bolt belay, which can be backed up with a sling, large hex, or hand-sized cams in the crack to the right.

10 Sport 25m, 2 Unlink route
28 Touch and Go
17 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
29 * Scratch and Sniff **

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

20 Mixed 22m, 2 Unlink route
31 Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business)
26 Sport 30m Unlink route
32 * Gumboot Diplomacy

Everyone in the know knows Black Hill 23s are all sand bags but this takes it to a new level... Even Law would have been proud! Excellent climbing on a beautiful subtle line. 23 after the crux start which is desperate!

23 Sport 30m, 5 Unlink route
33 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus
16 Sport 9m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #389

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Route Grade Popularity Style
9 * Bon Voyage

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

25 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
8 Ugly Voyage

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.

26 Sport 20m Unlink route
7 * Pumping Ugly Muscle

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

28 Sport 30m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #388

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Route Grade Popularity Style
14 Deceit

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

14 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
13 Long Neck Stubbies

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

17 Sport 21m, 3 Unlink route
12 * Long Sausage
18 Sport 4 Unlink route
11 Sink the Sausage
18 Sport 23m, 3 Unlink route
10 * Barefoot and Pregnant
19 Sport 23m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #397

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Route Grade Popularity Style
17 Bolt Ladder
21 Sport 6m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #400

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 The Moon
17 Sport 6m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #412

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Route Grade Popularity Style
20 The Cult Master
24 Sport 25m Unlink route

Topo #530

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Route Grade Popularity Style
25 * Rough Diamond **

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

18 Sport 23m, 5 Unlink route
24 * Milawa

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

17 Sport 23m, 5 Unlink route
23 * Thin Ice
18 Sport 25m Unlink route

Topo #413

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Route Grade Popularity Style
26 Greenpiece

The right hand wall of the gully between 'Frogs Hollow' and 'Milawa'.

22 Sport 12m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #402

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Route Grade Popularity Style
27 Frogs Hollow

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Single carrot bolt belay, which can be backed up with a sling, large hex, or hand-sized cams in the crack to the right.

10 Sport 25m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #408

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Route Grade Popularity Style
28 Touch and Go
17 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #409

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Route Grade Popularity Style
31 Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business)
26 Sport 30m Unlink route
29 * Scratch and Sniff **

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

20 Mixed 22m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #410

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Route Grade Popularity Style
32 * Gumboot Diplomacy

Everyone in the know knows Black Hill 23s are all sand bags but this takes it to a new level... Even Law would have been proud! Excellent climbing on a beautiful subtle line. 23 after the crux start which is desperate!

23 Sport 30m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #411

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Route Grade Popularity Style
33 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus
16 Sport 9m, 1 Unlink route

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