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Access issues inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve

Routes

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FA: Pete Stebbins, 1992

FA: James Falla, 1986

Languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seems unlikely this was ever led. If it was it wasnt 20! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 FH. Its good

The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of climb 12: Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock).

FA: Steve Holloway, 2010

Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2010

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS.

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

FA: Amanda Holloway

Some debate about the grade. Probably just bouldery hard 25. Watch the second clip though if you respect your ankles.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Pete Stebbins, 1992

Essentially this looks impossible, with poor rock and an absolutely rubbish bolt to boot! Great line though!

Start in the gully behind the Squishing Putrid Flesh boulder.

Three FH, then pop for the magnificent scoop to finish. DBB.

(RHV - move past the last FH on the RHS, arriving at a second scoop - grade 18)

FA: Martin Jackson, 2016

Start at the small corner 8m right of TSP.

Use the corner to rock onto the face, then straight up to the horizontal dyke. Step left along the rail to the pocket, then straight up to the third FH. Traverse left and up through flake scars to finish. DBB.

FA: Martin Jackson, 2016

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