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Middle Tier Bouldering

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 5
5
BLDV

Seasonality

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Description

Various blocks cover the hillside. Occasionally the rock exceeds complete rubbish while there are actually a couple of classics, especially the 4star dyke of The Dragon

Routes

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Grade Route

R to left traverse of whole face. Will be harder if shelf rest eliminated.

Start on ground level sloped shelf that marks the end of TAFMT. Sustained slabbing left and up finishing once established in small incipient corner at far left end. V6/7

Long ground level traverse of the squeal like a pig slab. Best done right to left starting at giant pocket. Hard moves for first 4m to blackened stump then miles of slabbng to gain obvious ground level hands free about 2/3 away across face (start of The Squealing)

All class 4 star mega classic. The amazing scaled dyke winding up the wave shaped down hill side of the boulder below Squeal Like a Pig. Stand start at right end of dyke and traverse left following dyke to steep moves. At lip swallow hard and mantle (crux). Very easy 4m slab to salvation.

FA: Nick Hancock, 2000

Reach dependent sit start at right end of dyke. V4 if you stack to reach jug, V4/5 if you can reach the good edge mid height on the dyke, V6 from slimps at base of dyke.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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Wed 19 Apr
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