A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. The Northern Group 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189

Description:

From 'Virgin Summit Tor' go another 50m along the Ridge Track than veer L and down to find 'Half Man, Half Biscuit'.

Use the area topo to orient yourself from here.

Access Issues: inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve

1.1. Upper Tier 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Half Man, Half Biscuit 17Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Pumping Ugly Muscle 25Sport 30m, 6
3 Ugly Voyage 25Sport 32m
4 * Bon Voyage 23Sport 30m, 3
5 * Barefoot and Pregnant 19Sport 23m, 3
6 Sink the Sausage 18Sport 23m, 3
7 * Long Sausage

FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes

18Sport 4
8 Long Neck Stubbies

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

17Sport 21m, 3
9 Deceit

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

14Sport 20m, 3
10 Castel Vlad

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

18Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Bolt Ladder 21Sport 6m, 3
12 The Moon 17Sport 6m, 2
13 Acid Rain 25Sport 26m
14 The Cult Master 24Sport 25m
15 The Cult Master Direct (bolted project) 26Sport 20m
16 ** Havoc 24Sport 23m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 * Thin Ice 18Sport 25m
18 * Milawa

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

17Sport 23m, 5
19 * Rough Diamond **

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

18Sport 23m, 5
20 Greenpiece 22Sport 12m, 2
21 Frogs Hollow 14Sport 25m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 Touch and Go 17Sport 20m, 3
23 * Scratch and Sniff **

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985

20Mixed 22m, 2
24 Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) 26Sport 30m
25 * Gumboot Diplomacy 23Sport 30m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus 16Sport 9m, 1

1.2. Middle Tier 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clostridium Perfringens 12Sport 9m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Squeal Like a Pig 21Sport 26m, 4
3 Bolt Like A Bush Pig

4 BRs, first with fixed hanger

FA: Unknown

21Sport 26m, 4
4 Animal Husbandry 21Sport 26m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Maid to Undress in the Wilderness 21Sport 23m, 4
6 * Work the Meat 20Mixed 22m, 2
7 Fear of a Black Planet 20Sport 20m
8 Koala Bare 17Mixed 8m, 1
9 * Passionate Public Petting 18Sport 14m, 2

1.3. Lower Tier 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Neon Knights 22Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Four-eyed and Bumless 21Trad 30m
3 FB Direct Finish 21Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Cruising for Meat 17Sport 11m, 2
5 Penetration 21Sport 10m, 1
6 Original Sin 13Sport 15m, 1
7 Porking in Paradise 21Sport 7m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Static Relief 20Sport 9m
9 Boulder 20Sport 9m
10 Shark's Fin Soup 17Sport 25m, 3
11 Jaws 17Sport 25m, 2
12 Hard Shit 20Sport 8m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Partners in Crime 21Sport 12m, 2
14 Crimes of Passion 19Sport 12m, 2
15 Hard Shit's Bastard Brother 20Sport 6m, 1
16 Shredded Evidence 17Sport 8m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Los Andes 18Sport 8m, 1
18 Squishing Putrid Flesh 18Sport 20m, 4
19 Access Crack 14Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Large Format 20Sport 13m, 1
21 Romper Stomper 25Sport 15m
22 Three Moves to Glory 23Mixed 10m, 1
23 Hit With a Blunt Instrument 12Sport 6m
24 Girl Germs 14Sport 6m
25 The New Purgatory

The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of climb 12: Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock).

FA: Steve Holloway, 2010

20Sport 10m, 3
26 Bolts on Granite Slab

Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2010

21Sport 12m, 3
27 Bolts on Granite Slab II

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

21Sport 14m, 1
28 Go Dog Go

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

FA: Amanda Holloway

16Sport 14m, 12

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Clostridium Perfringens Sport 9m, 1 1.2. Middle Tier
Hit With a Blunt Instrument Sport 6m 1.3. Lower Tier
13 Original Sin Sport 15m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
14 Deceit Sport 20m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Frogs Hollow Sport 25m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Access Crack Trad 8m 1.3. Lower Tier
Girl Germs Sport 6m 1.3. Lower Tier
16 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus Sport 9m, 1 1.1. Upper Tier
Go Dog Go Sport 14m, 12 1.3. Lower Tier
17 Half Man, Half Biscuit Trad 15m 1.1. Upper Tier
Long Neck Stubbies Sport 21m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
* Milawa Sport 23m, 5 1.1. Upper Tier
The Moon Sport 6m, 2 1.1. Upper Tier
Touch and Go Sport 20m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Koala Bare Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Middle Tier
Cruising for Meat Sport 11m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
Jaws Sport 25m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
Shark's Fin Soup Sport 25m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
Shredded Evidence Sport 8m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
18 Castel Vlad Sport 10m 1.1. Upper Tier
* Long Sausage Sport 4 1.1. Upper Tier
* Rough Diamond ** Sport 23m, 5 1.1. Upper Tier
Sink the Sausage Sport 23m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
* Thin Ice Sport 25m 1.1. Upper Tier
* Passionate Public Petting Sport 14m, 2 1.2. Middle Tier
Los Andes Sport 8m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Squishing Putrid Flesh Sport 20m, 4 1.3. Lower Tier
19 * Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 23m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Crimes of Passion Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
20 * Scratch and Sniff ** Mixed 22m, 2 1.1. Upper Tier
Fear of a Black Planet Sport 20m 1.2. Middle Tier
* Work the Meat Mixed 22m, 2 1.2. Middle Tier
Boulder Sport 9m 1.3. Lower Tier
Hard Shit Sport 8m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Hard Shit's Bastard Brother Sport 6m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Large Format Sport 13m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Static Relief Sport 9m 1.3. Lower Tier
The New Purgatory Sport 10m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
21 Bolt Ladder Sport 6m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Animal Husbandry Sport 26m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
Bolt Like A Bush Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
Maid to Undress in the Wilderness Sport 23m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
* Squeal Like a Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab II Sport 14m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
FB Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.3. Lower Tier
Four-eyed and Bumless Trad 30m 1.3. Lower Tier
Partners in Crime Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
Penetration Sport 10m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Porking in Paradise Sport 7m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
22 Greenpiece Sport 12m, 2 1.1. Upper Tier
Neon Knights Sport 14m 1.3. Lower Tier
23 * Bon Voyage Sport 30m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
* Gumboot Diplomacy Sport 30m, 5 1.1. Upper Tier
Three Moves to Glory Mixed 10m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
24 ** Havoc Sport 23m 1.1. Upper Tier
The Cult Master Sport 25m 1.1. Upper Tier
25 Acid Rain Sport 26m 1.1. Upper Tier
* Pumping Ugly Muscle Sport 30m, 6 1.1. Upper Tier
Ugly Voyage Sport 32m 1.1. Upper Tier
Romper Stomper Sport 15m 1.3. Lower Tier
26 The Cult Master Direct (bolted project) Sport 20m 1.1. Upper Tier
Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) Sport 30m 1.1. Upper Tier