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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189
- Access Issues: inherited from Black Hill
Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem.
FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.
|2||Half Man, Half Biscuit||17||15m|
Pumping Ugly Muscle
Re established via V7/8 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling then continue.
Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.
Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.
|6||Barefoot and Pregnant||19||323m,|
|7||Sink the Sausage||18||323m,|
FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes
Long Neck Stubbies
This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011
Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.
FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995
From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.
|15||The Cult Master||24||25m|
Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010
Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.
Rough Diamond **
Intricate climbing on feature granite.
FA: Andrew Stevens
|23||Touch and Go||17||320m,|
Scratch and Sniff **
Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.
FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985
|25||Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business)||26||30m|
Sport and Trad
|2||Squeal Like a Pig||21||426m,|
Bolt Like A Bush Pig
4 BRs, first with fixed hanger
|5||Maid to Undress in the Wilderness||21||423m,|
|6||Work the Meat||20||222m,|
|7||Fear of a Black Planet||20||20m|
|9||Passionate Public Petting||18||214m,|
|2||Four-eyed and Bumless||21||30m|
|3||FB Direct Finish||21||25m|
|4||Cruising for Meat||17||211m,|
|7||Porking in Paradise||21||17m,|
|10||Shark's Fin Soup||17||325m,|
Languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seems unlikely this was ever led. If it was it wasnt 20! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 FH. Its good
|13||Partners in Crime||21||212m,|
|14||Crimes of Passion||19||212m,|
|15||Hard Shit's Bastard Brother||20||16m,|
|18||Squishing Putrid Flesh||18||420m,|
|22||Three Moves to Glory||23||110m,|
|23||Hit With a Blunt Instrument||12||6m|
The New Purgatory
FA: Steve Holloway, 2010
Bolts on Granite Slab
Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.
FA: Mark Rewi, 2010
Bolts on Granite Slab II
Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.
Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.
Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS.
Go Dog Go
Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.
Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.
FA: Amanda Holloway