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Table of contents

1. The Northern Group 79 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189


From 'Virgin Summit Tor' go another 50m along the Ridge Track than veer L and down to find 'Half Man, Half Biscuit'.

Use the area topo to orient yourself from here.

Access Issues: inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve

1.1. Upper Tier 40 routes in Cliff

Sport, Boulder and other styles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Highball Crack / Half Man Half Crack

Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!

FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.

26 Trad 10m
2 ** Spy Works

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out.

FA: @mrewi, 2015

26 Mixed 15m, 3
3 * Half Man, Half Spy

Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25.

FA: @mrewi

24 Sport 15m
4 Half Man, Half Biscuit

A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing!

17 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Pumping Ugly Muscle

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

28 Sport 30m, 6
6 Ugly Voyage

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.

26 Sport 20m
7 * Bon Voyage

Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.

25 Sport 20m, 3
8 * Barefoot and Pregnant 19 Sport 23m, 3
9 Sink the Sausage 18 Sport 23m, 3
10 * Long Sausage

FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes

18 Sport 4
11 Long Neck Stubbies

This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011

17 Sport 21m, 3
12 Deceit

Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.

14 Sport 20m, 3
13 Castel Vlad

2 BR

FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

18 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Bolt Ladder 21 Sport 6m, 3
15 The Moon 17 Sport 6m, 2
16 Acid Rain

From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.

25 Sport 26m
17 The Cult Master 24 Sport 25m
18 Anguish

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

27 Sport 20m
19 ** Havoc 24 Sport 23m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 * Thin Ice 18 Sport 25m
21 * Milawa

Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.

17 Sport 23m, 5
22 * Rough Diamond **

Intricate climbing on feature granite.

FA: Andrew Stevens

18 Sport 23m, 5
23 Greenpiece 22 Sport 12m, 2
24 Frogs Hollow 14 Sport 25m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Touch and Go 17 Sport 20m, 3
26 * Scratch and Sniff **

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.

FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985

20 Mixed 22m, 2
27 Incremental

Direct line via 4 carrots (!) between Scratch and Sniff and Toxic Shock. Will be great if anyone gets round to cleaning it.

FA: Steven Wilson, 2013

23 Sport 18m
28 Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) 26 Sport 30m
29 * Gumboot Diplomacy 23 Sport 30m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus 16 Sport 9m, 1

1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering 7 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

A number of excellent thin boulder problems can be had on the half man and pumping ugly muscle walls


As per upper tier


Probably all previously done by Charlie Creese... although the problems have a habit of changing over time!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost and Lethal

Sharp sit start 1.5m left of BVL. Layaway edges up and left via small flat tops and continue left to good layaway just inside arête

V6 Boulder
2 Bon Voyage Left

Stand start on very thin lay always a metre or 2 left of BVR. Pretty sharp!

V3 Boulder 4m
3 Bon Voyage Right

Sit start as for the Golden Path. Up via large undercling to jug (or layaway jug up left if you feel inclined). V1 as a stand which makes one wonder why people are forever building cairns to get into the route!

V2 Boulder 4m
4 The Golden Path

Sit Start 3m left of PUM stand on excellent golden edges. Traverse up and right to gain the stand start (the large undercling above is out, about V2 with it in).

V4 Boulder 4m
5 Pumping Ugly Muscle Sit

Golden Path into PUM stand. Only V4 to the stand but sustained crimping tips it over the line.

V8 Boulder 5m
6 Pumping Ugly Muscle Stand

Start immediately below PUM bolt. Long hard move via thin undercling to poor edge (the large undercling further left is out). Finish at jug gaston/layaway beside bolt at 5m.

V7 Boulder 5m
7 Half Man Half Crack Sit Start

Sit start with big underclings and make powerful moves into line until the obvious large side pulls at 4m (or just swallow the medicine and keep cranking through insecure groove to top)

V6 Boulder 4m

1.1.2. TR Boulder 3 routes in Unknown

All Top Rope

The first decent bit of rock off the track approaching Northern group, with a nice incipient diagonal on the left side. Too short to bolt, pretty high on the highball. Has easily accessed DRB anchor to top rope. 3 obvious lines.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Right Crack

Obvious vertical then stepped crack. Good climbing.

Top rope
2 Central slab

Fairly blank wall between the obvious lines. Bring your chisel tips!

Top rope
3 Diagonal seam

Beautiful rock... shame its so short. Seam to blunt arête.

Top rope

1.2. Middle Tier 10 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clostridium Perfringens 12 Sport 9m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Squeal Like a Pig 21 Sport 26m, 4
3 Bolt Like A Bush Pig

4 BRs, first with fixed hanger

FA: Unknown

21 Sport 26m, 4
4 Animal Husbandry 21 Sport 26m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Maid to Undress in the Wilderness 21 Sport 23m, 4
6 Work the Meat 20 Mixed 22m, 2
7 Fear of a Black Planet 20 Sport 20m
8 Koala Bare 17 Mixed 8m, 1
9 * Passionate Public Petting 18 Sport 14m, 2

1.2.1. Middle Tier Bouldering 1 route in Unknown

All Boulder

Various blocks cover the hillside. Occasionally the rock exceeds complete rubbish while there are actually a couple of classics, especially the 4star dyke of The Dragon

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Dragon

All class 4 star mega classic. The amazing scaled dyke winding up the wave shaped down hill side of the boulder below Squeal Like a Pig. Stand start at right end of dyke (sit start V5 but a bit painful) and traverse left following dyke to steep moves. At lip swallow hard and mantle (crux). Very easy 4m slab to salvation.

V4 Boulder

1.3. Lower Tier 29 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Neon Knights 22 Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Four-eyed and Bumless 21 Trad 30m
3 FB Direct Finish 21 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Cruising for Meat 17 Sport 11m, 2
5 Penetration 21 Sport 10m, 1
6 Original Sin 13 Sport 15m, 1
7 Porking in Paradise 21 Sport 7m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Static Relief 20 Sport 9m
9 Boulder 20 Sport 9m
10 Hard Shit

Languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seems unlikely this was ever led. If it was it wasnt 20! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 FH. Its good

22 Sport 8m, 3
11 The New Purgatory

The New Purgatory is 1 meter right of climb 12: Hard Shit 20, located on The Dance Floor slab, immediately uphill of Shredded Evidence (40m uphill of Rio Rock).

FA: Steve Holloway, 2010

20 Sport 10m, 3
12 Bolts on Granite Slab

Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2010

21 Sport 12m, 3
13 Bolts on Granite Slab II

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

21 Sport 14m, 1
14 The Dyke

Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS.

23 Sport
15 Go Dog Go

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

FA: Amanda Holloway

16 Sport 14m, 12
16 Shark's Fin Soup 17 Sport 25m, 3
17 Jaws 17 Sport 25m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Partners in Crime 21 Sport 12m, 2
19 Crimes of Passion 19 Sport 12m, 2
20 Hard Shit's Bastard Brother 20 Sport 6m, 1
21 Shredded Evidence 17 Sport 8m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 Los Andes 18 Sport 8m, 1
23 Squishing Putrid Flesh 18 Sport 20m, 4
24 Access Crack 14 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Large Format 20 Sport 13m, 1
26 Romper Stomper 25 Sport 15m
27 Three Moves to Glory 23 Mixed 10m, 1
28 Hit With a Blunt Instrument 12 Sport 6m
29 Girl Germs 14 Sport 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Clostridium Perfringens Sport 9m, 1 1.2. Middle Tier
Hit With a Blunt Instrument Sport 6m 1.3. Lower Tier
13 Original Sin Sport 15m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
14 Deceit Sport 20m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Frogs Hollow Sport 25m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Access Crack Trad 8m 1.3. Lower Tier
Girl Germs Sport 6m 1.3. Lower Tier
16 Vibrio Parahaemolyticus Sport 9m, 1 1.1. Upper Tier
Go Dog Go Sport 14m, 12 1.3. Lower Tier
17 Half Man, Half Biscuit Trad 15m 1.1. Upper Tier
Long Neck Stubbies Sport 21m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
* Milawa Sport 23m, 5 1.1. Upper Tier
The Moon Sport 6m, 2 1.1. Upper Tier
Touch and Go Sport 20m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Koala Bare Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Middle Tier
Cruising for Meat Sport 11m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
Jaws Sport 25m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
Shark's Fin Soup Sport 25m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
Shredded Evidence Sport 8m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
18 Castel Vlad Sport 10m 1.1. Upper Tier
* Long Sausage Sport 4 1.1. Upper Tier
* Rough Diamond ** Sport 23m, 5 1.1. Upper Tier
Sink the Sausage Sport 23m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
* Thin Ice Sport 25m 1.1. Upper Tier
* Passionate Public Petting Sport 14m, 2 1.2. Middle Tier
Los Andes Sport 8m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Squishing Putrid Flesh Sport 20m, 4 1.3. Lower Tier
19 * Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 23m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Crimes of Passion Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
20 * Scratch and Sniff ** Mixed 22m, 2 1.1. Upper Tier
Fear of a Black Planet Sport 20m 1.2. Middle Tier
Work the Meat Mixed 22m, 2 1.2. Middle Tier
Boulder Sport 9m 1.3. Lower Tier
Hard Shit's Bastard Brother Sport 6m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Large Format Sport 13m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Static Relief Sport 9m 1.3. Lower Tier
The New Purgatory Sport 10m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
V2 Bon Voyage Right Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
21 Bolt Ladder Sport 6m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Animal Husbandry Sport 26m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
Bolt Like A Bush Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
Maid to Undress in the Wilderness Sport 23m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
* Squeal Like a Pig Sport 26m, 4 1.2. Middle Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
Bolts on Granite Slab II Sport 14m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
FB Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.3. Lower Tier
Four-eyed and Bumless Trad 30m 1.3. Lower Tier
Partners in Crime Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Lower Tier
Penetration Sport 10m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
Porking in Paradise Sport 7m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
22 Greenpiece Sport 12m, 2 1.1. Upper Tier
Hard Shit Sport 8m, 3 1.3. Lower Tier
Neon Knights Sport 14m 1.3. Lower Tier
V3 Bon Voyage Left Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
23 * Gumboot Diplomacy Sport 30m, 5 1.1. Upper Tier
Incremental Sport 18m 1.1. Upper Tier
The Dyke Sport 1.3. Lower Tier
Three Moves to Glory Mixed 10m, 1 1.3. Lower Tier
V4 The Golden Path Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
*** The Dragon Boulder 1.2.1. Middle Tier Bouldering
24 * Half Man, Half Spy Sport 15m 1.1. Upper Tier
** Havoc Sport 23m 1.1. Upper Tier
The Cult Master Sport 25m 1.1. Upper Tier
25 Acid Rain Sport 26m 1.1. Upper Tier
* Bon Voyage Sport 20m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Romper Stomper Sport 15m 1.3. Lower Tier
26 * Highball Crack Trad 10m 1.1. Upper Tier
** Spy Works Mixed 15m, 3 1.1. Upper Tier
Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business) Sport 30m 1.1. Upper Tier
Ugly Voyage Sport 20m 1.1. Upper Tier
V6 Half Man Half Crack Sit Start Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
Lost and Lethal Boulder 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
27 Anguish Sport 20m 1.1. Upper Tier
V7 Pumping Ugly Muscle Stand Boulder 5m 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
28 * Pumping Ugly Muscle Sport 30m, 6 1.1. Upper Tier
V8 Pumping Ugly Muscle Sit Boulder 5m 1.1.1. Upper Tier Bouldering
? Central slab Top rope 1.1.2. TR Boulder
Diagonal seam Top rope 1.1.2. TR Boulder
Right Crack Top rope 1.1.2. TR Boulder