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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Trad and Boulder
Long/Lat: 144.492112, -37.182189
- Access Issues: inherited from Black Hill
Sport, Boulder and Trad
Highball Crack / Half Man Half Crack
Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!
FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.
Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out.
FA: @mrewi, 2015
Half Man, Half Spy
Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall (about 23)
|4||Half Man, Half Biscuit||17||15m|
Pumping Ugly Muscle
Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.
Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes. Climb to first bolt on BV then travers into PUM and up. A couple of carrots remain.
Missing second bolt. 23 version climbs to 3rd bolt then traverse left onto slab. Has been led by traversing right from 4th bolt to finish as per PUM (25) and also direct past 4th bolt (25). Requires rebolting.
|8||Barefoot and Pregnant||19||323m,|
|9||Sink the Sausage||18||323m,|
FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes
Long Neck Stubbies
This route has been downgraded to 16 in the Glenn Tempest guide ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE 2011
Easy but delicate run out start to the 1st bolt, then up on easier ground.
FA: Dayle Gilliat, Chris Aicoboaie, 1995
From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.
|17||The Cult Master||24||25m|
Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010
Up corner to clip first bolt on arête, reverse a few moves and step onto the slab up the middle past 4 more bolts.
Rough Diamond **
Intricate climbing on feature granite.
FA: Andrew Stevens
|25||Touch and Go||17||320m,|
Scratch and Sniff **
Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past the bolts to bomber RP/micro wire placements.
FA: Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1985
Direct line via 4 carrots (!) between Scratch and Sniff and Toxic Shock. Will be great if anyone gets round to cleaning it.
FA: Steven Wilson, 2013
|28||Toxic Shock and Razor Blades (Unfinished Business)||26||30m|
A number of excellent thin boulder problems can be had on the half man and pumping ugly muscle walls
As per upper tier
Probably all previously done by Charlie Creese... although the problems have a habit of changing over time!
Lost and Lethal
Sharp sit start 1.5m left of BVL. Layaway edges up and left via small flat tops and continue left to good layaway just inside arête
Bon Voyage Left
Stand start on very thin lay always a metre or 2 left of BVR. Pretty sharp!
Bon Voyage Right
Sit start as for the Golden Path. Up via large undercling to jug (or layaway jug up left if you feel inclined). V1 as a stand which makes one wonder why people are forever building cairns to get into the route!
The Golden Path
Sit Start 3m left of PUM stand on excellent golden edges. Traverse up and right to gain the stand start (the large undercling above is out, about V2 with it in).
Pumping Ugly Muscle Sit
Golden Path into PUM stand. Only V4 to the stand but sustained crimping tips it over the line.
Pumping Ugly Muscle Stand
Start immediately below PUM bolt. Long hard move via thin undercling to poor edge (the large undercling further left is out). Finish at jug gaston/layaway beside bolt at 5m.
Half Man Half Crack Sit Start
Sit start with big underclings and make powerful moves into line until the obvious large side pulls at 4m (or just swallow the medicine and keep cranking through insecure groove to top)
Sport and Trad
|2||Squeal Like a Pig||21||426m,|
Bolt Like A Bush Pig
4 BRs, first with fixed hanger
|5||Maid to Undress in the Wilderness||21||423m,|
|6||Work the Meat||20||222m,|
|7||Fear of a Black Planet||20||20m|
|9||Passionate Public Petting||18||214m,|
|2||Four-eyed and Bumless||21||30m|
|3||FB Direct Finish||21||25m|
|4||Cruising for Meat||17||211m,|
|7||Porking in Paradise||21||17m,|
|10||Shark's Fin Soup||17||325m,|
Languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seems unlikely this was ever led. If it was it wasnt 20! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 FH. Its good
|13||Partners in Crime||21||212m,|
|14||Crimes of Passion||19||212m,|
|15||Hard Shit's Bastard Brother||20||16m,|
|18||Squishing Putrid Flesh||18||420m,|
|22||Three Moves to Glory||23||110m,|
|23||Hit With a Blunt Instrument||12||6m|
The New Purgatory
FA: Steve Holloway, 2010
Bolts on Granite Slab
Bolts on Granite Slab is the next climb directly right of The New Purgatory.
FA: Mark Rewi, 2010
Bolts on Granite Slab II
Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.
Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.
Start at BOGS II to reach the obvious diagonal dyke. Follow this all the way to HS (spicy just before arrival) using last bolts on each route Finish as per HS.
Go Dog Go
Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws 20m 17.
Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.
FA: Amanda Holloway