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From the car park go through the gate and follow the jeep track to the left. After about 500m veer right, uphill onto the ridge track. After another 200m you'll come to a sign saying 'Ridge Track 1.7k'. Follow this for another 50m. 'Virgin Summit Tor' is on the right. The first route you come to will be 'Wuss in Boots'.

Access issues inherited from Black Hill

Forest Reserve


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Grade Route
23 ** Wuss in Boots Sport 14m, 3

Excellent obscure and hard at 23 (whoever put it at 22 is on drugs... many very good climbers regularly onsighting 24 have failed to get up this despite multiple attempts). Having said that it climbs exceptionally well when you find the right positions. The superb looking finger seam up the front of the buttress.

21 * Dicky Knee's Dihedral Sport 12m, 2

2 black hill stars. Traverses in from right past shiny FH after the start fell off. 2 old carrots and a couple of wigglies in the excellent corner.

25 The Malmsbury Kid Sport 10m
17 * Panda-monium Sport 9m, 2

Good climbing past 2 carrots. Can be climbed direct at top but most step left. New DRB anchor on top.

16 Russell's Megaroute Sport 6m, 1

2m L of Russell's Megaroute and better than it too. Toprope.

13 * Cushy Sport 10m

Very fine fused seam behind a large tree. Goes clean but the bolt mentioned in the previous guide does not appear to be there.

Pulled out by hand on abseil!

18 * Sticky Fingers Sport 8m, 4

On the block immediately E from Virgin Summit Tor.


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