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Description

The main area for Black Mountain, accessed around a 150-200 metre walk from the first parking bay (asphalt) that you find on your left as you drive or walk up the hill. The boulders/climbs are described from right to left facing uphill - they form a broken ridge that ends at boulder 8 (see topo)

Approach

Follow the "Lakeview" trail from the carpark for about 120m. You'll need to turn right off the track to find the rocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up face crack on right side; boulder is second (of three) on right hand side facing the lake coming down the unpaved road.

Set by John T, 2014

FFA: John T, 2014

Up left hand side of same boulder for Problem 0.1, nice right hand pinch to pull up orange exposed section

Set by John T, 2014

FFA: John T, 2014

Up right side arrete, easy layback up to top; boulder is the third (furthest from road), next to Problem 0.1 boulder with a small roof section

Set by John T, 2014

FFA: John T, 2014

Same face as Problem 0.3, small right hand finger pocket to start

FFA: John, 2014

Set by John, 2014

Start slightly left of roof (opposite side of Problem 0.4), reach past roof to mantle finish

FFA: John T, 2014

Set by John T, 2014

Sit start on positive holds then throw for the absolute apex of the boulder.

Eliminate - sit start as for problem 1, right hand to the sloper then use that hold to steady yourself for the throw to the top.

Up and over the bulge. Sketchy mantel.

Sit start, sitting on detached rock. Start on good high jug and same finish as AM

Set by Andrew Lehmann, 2016

FFA: Andrew Lehmann, 2016

FA: Andrew Lehmann, 2016

Sit start on far left using orange part of rock as foot holds. Go diagonally to the right and up. The small rock under the good starting hold on far left is off for feet. Avoid standing on ledge.

Set by Andrew Lehmann, 2016

FFA: Andrew Lehmann, 2016

FA: Andrew Lehmann, 2016

Up the crack and its nearby features. Bonus points if you use only the crack. Sit start.

Contrived eliminate - climb up the left arete without using the rest boulder. Tensiony and a bit crimpy.

Sit start, then up and stay to the right using the easy holds.

Sit start and fairly directly up but to the right side of the arete, rather than the left.

Sit start then head left around the arete on small holds and incuts. The crux is getting up over the ledge at mid height. Roughly v3 if you eliminate a few holds.

Silly eliminate. Using only the toe-hook on the left side (the incut notch on the right side is out), slap your way up the arete and then take the big swing (tiny swing) before campussing your way to the ledge then mantling your way to the top. Sit start.

A vicious sit-start problem using the crimp hold at about head height when sitting (which just fits a few fingers of each hand), then executing a large dynamic move to reach the ledge above. Your fingers may not survive; you have been warned.

Sit start on other side of arête. Match on obvious jug at head height. Traverse left around arête then move up to top out. Don't use ledges to mantle up on final moves and the left crack constrains the route.

FA: Steve Duggan, 2015

From a standing start, get your hands high up on the right edge of the arete and your toes into the crack running along the bottom of the rock. Shuffle your hands up the edge until you reach the jug, get your left foot onto the crimp hold from 'Problem 9' then swing your right foot up onto the ledge and convince the rest of your body to follow it. Continue to the top.

Climb the boulder without mantling.

Climb the boulder and mantle at the ledge. If you're feeling crazy like me, execute a scary heel hook out wide and blindly reach up for a semi-crimp, trust that it's bomber and use it to lever yourself up. Do not go around the right side; this problem is for checking your head.

Difficult to grade. From a standing start, use the lovely hand-grip at shoulder height, place your feet at either side as high as you can get them, and dyno to the second ledge above your head - that is, the higher one. While it takes some strength to accomplish, much more of the climb is about trusting you can do it and won't body-slam the rock.

FA: David Nott, 2011

Stand start. Up the right side of the boulder using the crimp then trending left to a rail and up.

As for 12, get set on your feet using the crimp then head left around the corner using the rail to steady yourself and up from there.

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then head right using the odd volume for a side/undercling and finish for problem 12.

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then climb up the arete, hugging both sides and top out.

Sit start underneath the rooflet, then climb the arete using only the holds on the left side.

Like Ascension, hard to grade. And massively sketchy. Using the rail on the very right hand side of the boulder, get your feet under you (do not use the mercy boulder just to your right) and dyno up onto the horn. If you manage to make it, congratulate yourself that you've averted broken bones, ponder why the hold isn't just a liiitle bit more juggy, then figure out how you're going to get up the top as you're not done yet.

FA: David Nott, 2011

Same Boulder as the topo above

From a standing start, grab two big jugs on the arete and get your feet onto the sloping blocks underneath. Swing a lft foot into the little orange incut notch the the left, stand up on that and head on up.

FA:

Start as for 'section 59', but instead of staying left at the top, swing out onto the slabby face and go straight up.

Activity

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