Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Just before the intersection / car parking spot turn right and head 50 metres up the hill. This area has some large walls and one very steep wall. Some grades are fairly stiff, perhaps due to the strength of the climbers first ascending the problems - watch out for Fieg problems! but in reality, like any area the difficulty of the climbs really varies depending on your finger strength, body type etc. Test pieces are named that way for a reason - they're a good way to know if you can really climb the grade or just squeak it in on unknown climbs.

You may need to bring some cleaning gear with you. Due to its location this area doesn't see daily activity and given it is in a forest, moss abounds at times and always returns. Better off scrubbing off some moss than falling on your arse and breaking your coccyx. Or something.

Access issues inherited from Black Range bouldering

These boulders lie in a national park. While there are no current access restrictions, please respect the nature of the park and aim to minimise your impact.

Approach

Just before the sign to Tallaganda you can turn right and drive right up to the boulders. Be wary driving up that road though, there's a few large rocks in the way that can damage a low-slung car and the walk is short enough that even a boulderer should be able to endure it.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Shares a sit start with the V6 and V8 traverses. Harder than it looks, easier if you skip the hard undercling move to start.

FA: Duncan Brown

FA: Duncan Brown, 2007

An absolute classic. The high traverse into the slopey middle topout. Originally graded V8 but vandals and time have reduced the grade.

FA: Leeson Rose

Traverse from a sit start along a nice overhung section of the wall to a reasonably high topout.

FA: Leeson Rose

Start as for The Warm Up and traverse right along the lower crack then finish as for The Percival Extension. Mostly destroyed by some scum sucking bike riders with crowbars. !!&^&%^

FA: George Fieg

Sit start as for percival low traversing along slopers/staying as low as possible, then reverse Muy Forte left and finish up Muy Forte.

FA: Daniel Fisher, 2014

Left of Power up. Slopes to undercling, then up and mantle.

FA: Andrew Bull

Sit start and power your way up crimps.

FA: George Fieg

Stand start on crimps and straight up to top on slopers.

Start on the underclings and move left then up to finish as for Percival The Feisty Mouse.

FA: Chris Warner

Stand start from underclings. Climb straight up using right hand gaston and top out.

FFA: Bevan Ashby, 2015

Start on the underclings and go straight up to top out as for The Percival Extension. Settling at 7ish down from V9 with a breakage.

FA: George Fieg

Jam the corner to start then up.

FA: Dave 'The Dude' Filan

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side.

FA: Andrew Bull

After the cut loose of Roof Raider, head out left to the arete then up.

FA: Andrew Bull

Sit start.

FA: Sarah

FA: Sarah

Some of the most desperate slopers you will ever use. Sit start. Hardest part is getting your feet underneath you for the move onto the body of the boulder.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete.

FA: Glen Jones

Climb Jugalicious, continue around corner and finish matched on a large edge in the middle of the wall.

Sit start - as for Jugalicious but straight up and finish on the face. Drop off.

FA: Duncan Brown

Has been done on top rope, there are ringbolts on top of the boulder, but a real highball ascent has yet to be seen… Stand start at the sidecling jugs for Jugalicious then through some insecure scoops.

FA: Chas Ruffles

Using the same toprope as for ‘The Riddle’, climb the overhung high face further around left.

FA: Chas Ruffles

The hard face left of ‘Night Sky’, starting near left arete, finishing at a jug up right.

FA: Chas Ruffles

Sit start on the square block and climb up the crack. (Don't use the Bundy Rum wall)

FA: Graham Rose

Start around the corner and above blocks left of ‘Bundy Rum’, highball to the top.

FA: Aiden Smith

FA: Paul Cuthbert

Up slopers.

FA: Tara Sutherland

Traverse, go up the ridge past #14.

FA: Paul Cuthbert

Sit start.

FA: Tara Sutherland

FA: Chris Warner

FA: Chris Warner

FA: Chris Warner

FA: Chris Warner

Sit start at the scoop, then up via good rails.

FA: Pete, 2017

Stand start and up the short wall, round left from Scoopy Do.

FA: Pete, 2017

Sit start as low as possible, on the good features up right of Painted on Ears, moving up and right to top out.

FA: Pete, 2017

Sit start off a jug then through crimps to topout.

FA: Ky Wittich

Sit start then into underclings.

FA: Josh Higgins

Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start. A quite contrived sit but rather stiff mantel in the vein of most Fieg offerings!

FA: Sarah

Right of the arete.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start and onto the arete.

Written up as a stand start in Duncan's guide ... seems like he should know

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start on slopers.

FA: Chris L

Sit start. Traverse right and upwards then mantle.

FA: Duncan Brown

Squat start? No sit starts really possible on this boulder.

FA: George Fieg

Squat start (?ish) then up the poor incuts topping out right of the end to 'Around The World'.

Squat start and trend up the arete to reasonable holds, then a super-high step and you're away.

Very tough traverse on slopers. Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

Mantle. Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

Sit start.

FA: Justin Ryan

Off the good rail to a high hold.

FA: Chris L

FA: Andrew Richards

Sit start.

FA: Ky Wittich

FA: Graham Rose

Sit start.

FA: Stephanie Mundy

Sit start and straight up through the moss

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

Sit start.

FA: Ky Wittich

Up the face using arete + crimps. Burly. Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start.

FA: Josh Higgins

Site start on left side, traverse (left to right) across the start holds of centrality and up the guts, and then move up and to the right to finish on the right side.

Sit start.

FA: Josh Higgins

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start. Consensus downgrade to V2.

FA: Andrew Richards

Thin slab.

FA: Ky Wittich

Sit start then as for high step, slabbing to top.

FA: Chris Warner

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start. Guide said V0, grade updated based on feedback.

FA: Jarvis Brown

FA: Aiden Smith

Sit start underclinging the side and mantle up the block using only a heel hook. Deduct points for using other rocks, extra points for getting stabbed by the tree. Might be worth bringing a saw for the second ascent. If you do it right it should be harder than the grade indicated, but let's face it people cheat.

FA: David Nott, 2013

FA: Ian Churchill

FA: Chas Ruffles

FA: Chas Ruffles

#41 in the October 2013 guide produced by Duncan Brown.

Start just left of Show and Tell using the arete. Avoid the good starting footholds to the right. Named after the sharp flake you throw for.

FA: Geoff Campbell & Chris Lean, 2014

FA: Chris Lean, 2014

Standing start and traverse right on sidepulls.

FA: Giovanni Guccione, 2014

Sit start and traverse under Top Quark using the flake for hands.

FA: Geoff Campbell, 2014

Direct start to Top Quark. Sit Start on jugs.

FA: Chris Lean, 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Hill.