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Description

Just before the intersection / car parking spot turn right and head 50 metres up the hill. This area has some large walls and one very steep wall. Some grades are fairly stiff, perhaps due to the strength of the climbers first ascending the problems - watch out for Fieg problems! but in reality, like any area the difficulty of the climbs really varies depending on your finger strength, body type etc. Test pieces are named that way for a reason - they're a good way to know if you can really climb the grade or just squeak it in on unknown climbs.

You may need to bring some cleaning gear with you. Due to its location this area doesn't see daily activity and given it is in a forest, moss abounds at times and always returns. Better off scrubbing off some moss than falling on your arse and breaking your coccyx. Or something.

Access issues inherited from Black Range bouldering

These boulders lie in a national park. While there are no current access restrictions, please respect the nature of the park and aim to minimise your impact.

Approach

Just before the sign to Tallaganda you can turn right and drive right up to the boulders. Be wary driving up that road though, there's a few large rocks in the way that can damage a low-slung car and the walk is short enough that even a boulderer should be able to endure it.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V4 * The Warm Up / #1 Boulder 3m

Shares a sit start with the V6 and V8 traverses. Harder than it looks, easier if you skip the hard undercling move to start.

FA: Duncan Brown

2

FA: Duncan Brown, 2007

3

An absolute classic. The high traverse into the slopey middle topout. Originally graded V8 but vandals and time have reduced the grace.

FA: Leeson Rose

4

Traverse from a sit start along a nice overhung section of the wall to a reasonably high topout.

FA: Leeson Rose

5
V8 Percival Low / #3 Boulder 7m

Start as for The Warm Up and traverse right along the lower crack then finish as for The Percival Extension. Mostly destroyed by some scum sucking bike riders with crowbars. !!&^&%^

FA: George Fieg

6
V10 Bent Spoke Boulder 4m

Sit start as for percival low traversing along slopers/staying as low as possible, then reverse Muy Forte left and finish up Muy Forte.

FA: Daniel Fisher, 1st Aug

7
V5 * Bogan Boulder

Left of Power up. Slopes to undercling, then up and mantle.

FA: Andrew Bull

8
V8 * Power Up / #4 Boulder 4m

Sit start and power your way up crimps.

FA: George Fieg

9
V3 Power Up Stand Boulder 3m

Stand start on crimps and straight up to top on slopers.

10
V9 * Muy Forte Left Boulder

Start on the underclings and move left then up to finish as for Percival The Feisty Mouse.

FA: Chris Warner

11
V9 * Muy Forte / #5 Boulder 5m

Start on the underclings and go straight up to top out as for The Percival Extension.

FA: George Fieg

12
V5 * Toast & Jam / #6 Boulder

Jam the corner to start then up.

FA: Dave 'The Dude' Filan

13
V7 ** Roof Raider / #7 Boulder

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side. Can go easier depending on how you do it but there's definitely a V7 way to do it.

FA: Andrew Bull

14
V4 * Fridge Slapper Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Sarah

15
V0 Face It / #8 Boulder

FA: Sarah

16
V8 * Round One / #9 Boulder

Some of the most desperate slopers you will ever use. Sit start. Hardest part is getting your feet underneath you for the move onto the body of the boulder.

FA: George Fieg

17
V0 #10 Boulder

A few different variations of this one, all pretty easy. Sit start.

FA: Graham Rose

18
V3 * Jugalicious / #11 Boulder 5m

Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete.

FA: Glen Jones

19
V5 Road To Nowhere / #12 Boulder 4m

Sit start - as for Jugalicious but straight up and finish on the face. Drop off.

FA: Duncan Brown

20
V5 ** The Riddle Boulder 9m

Has been done on top rope, there are ringbolts on top of the boulder, but a real highball ascent has yet to be seen… Stand start at the sidecling jugs for Jugalicious then through some insecure scoops.

FA: Chas Ruffles

21
V4 ** Night Sky Boulder

Using the same toprope as for ‘The Riddle’, climb the overhung high face further around left.

FA: Chas Ruffles

22
V5 * Bundy Rum Boulder

The hard face left of ‘Night Sky’, starting near left arete, finishing at a jug up right.

FA: Chas Ruffles

23
V3 * Aid-On Boulder

Start around the corner and above blocks left of ‘Bundy Rum’, highball to the top.

FA: Aiden Smith

24
V1 Starter / #13 Boulder

FA: Paul Cuthbert

25

Up slopers.

FA: Tara Sutherland

26
V5 * Getting It / #15 Boulder

Traverse, go up the ridge past #14.

FA: Paul Cuthbert

27
V3 Talisman / #16 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Tara Sutherland

28
V1 Komytea / #17 Boulder

FA: Chris Warner

29
V2 * Vela / #18 Boulder

FA: Chris Warner

30
V2 Vola / #19 Boulder

FA: Chris Warner

31
V1 Little Miss / #20 Boulder

FA: Chris Warner

32

Sit start off a jug then through crimps to topout.

FA: Ky Wittich

33

Sit start then into underclings.

FA: Josh Higgins

34

Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

35
V1 * The Overlap / #24 Boulder

Sit start. A quite contrived sit but rather stiff mantel in the vein of most Fieg offerings!

FA: Sarah

36
V0 ** The Thimble / #25 Boulder

Right of the arete.

FA: Duncan Brown

37

Sit start and onto the arete.

FA: Duncan Brown

38

Sit start. Traverse right and upwards then mantle.

FA: Duncan Brown

39

Squat start? No sit starts really possible on this boulder.

FA: George Fieg

40
V6 Alfred's Basic LRHV! Boulder 3m

Squat start (?ish) then up the poor incuts topping out right of the end to 'Around The World'.

41
V6 * Alfred's Basic RHV Boulder 4m

Squat start and trend up the arete to reasonable holds, then a super-high step and you're away.

42

Very tough traverse on slopers. Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

43

Mantle. Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

44
V2 * Little Man / #31 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Justin Ryan

45
V1 Big Man Boulder

FA: Andrew Richards

46
V1 * The Nose Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Ky Wittich

47
V1 * Easy Does It Boulder

FA: Graham Rose

48
V0 The Ramp Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Stephanie Mundy

49
V3 * Spot Me, Bro! Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

50
V1 Right Side / #32 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

51
V2 * Centrality / #33 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Ky Wittich

52
V2 ** Up The Guts Boulder 4m

Up the face using arete + crimps. Burly. Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

53
V2 * Left Side Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Josh Higgins

54
FB 5+ * Get low, then high Boulder

Site start on left side, traverse (left to right) across the start holds of centrality and up the guts, and then move up and to the right to finish on the right side.

55
V2 Just Do It / #34 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Josh Higgins

56
V3 Finger Lock Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

57
V4 Jlo / #35 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

58
V3 ** High Step / #36 Boulder

Thin slab.

FA: Ky Wittich

59
US V5 High Step ss Boulder 4m

Sit start then as for high step, slabbing to top.

FA: Chris Warner

60

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

61

Sit start. Guide said V0, grade updated based on feedback.

FA: Jarvis Brown

62
V0 * To The Top Boulder

FA: Aiden Smith

63
US V1 #40 / Not Worth the Walk Boulder 2m

Sit start underclinging the side and mantle up the block using only a heel hook. Deduct points for using other rocks, extra points for getting stabbed by the tree. Might be worth bringing a saw for the second ascent. If you do it right it should be harder than the grade indicated, but let's face it people cheat.

FA: David Nott, 2013

64
V0 * Churchill Boulder

FA: Ian Churchill

65
V3 * Kookaburra Boulder

FA: Chas Ruffles

66
V2 * In Ya Face Boulder

FA: Chas Ruffles

67
Project 1 Boulder

#41 in the October 2013 guide produced by Duncan Brown.

68
Project 2 Boulder
69
Project 3 Boulder