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Description

Steep sport climbing.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 M0 *** The Way of All Flesh M0 Sport 22m

Pumpy, steep greatness!...and a cop out. Nevertheless extremely popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here.

2
28 *** The Way of All Flesh Sport 25m

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

FFA: Mark Baker, 1992

FA: S.Butler, 1992

3

The direct version of TWoAF. Heinous.

The next three routes share the same start, and roof. They then split.

4

Starts up Bloodline and goes diagonally left through roofs to join TWOAF.

FFA: Warwick Larkin, 2009

5
30 *** Booby Trap Sport 20m

Start: As for 'Bloodline' through roof, left a move and then straight up

FA: Julian Saunders, 2011

6
31 *** Bloodlion Sport 20m

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof and much pumpiness beyond. Harder now with broken hold.

FA: B.Littleford, 2009

7
30 * Brain Haemorrage Sport 20m

8m R of TWoAF. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof.

FA: V.Day, 2005

8

Start at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. Keep on pulling with a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep!

Set by M Warren, 2009

FA: Nigel Campbell, 2013

9

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of 'Brain Hemorrhage'. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

FA: M Warren, 2009

10

The middle line, 5m R. Originally 22, but has crept up as thrutch skills have crept down.

FA: M Warren, 2010

11

Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity.

Go all the way to the TOP (old) anchor to earn the grade... the last move to the old anchor doesn't add a grade but sure adds to the excitement.

FA: G.Fieg, 1995

12
20 *** Haystack Madness Trad 25m

About 20m around the corner from GKOTJ. The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack.

FA: R.Young, J.Smoothy & J.Lamb, 1980

13
24 to 26 ** But the Raven, Sitting Lonely... Sport 28m, 10

Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks.

Originally climbed by traversing left into the crack for a few meters after turning the lip of the big roof, and traversing back onto the line at the next bolt (Pumpy grade 24 this way). It loses a star if you climb it this way.

Has now been freed direct at grade 25 for those with an enormous wingspan, or a bouldery 26 (one move wonder) for normal human beings.

Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2015

Activity

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