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Description

Steep sport climbing.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Pumpy, steep greatness!...and a cop out. Nevertheless extremely popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017, but are already showing early signs of ageing so, as always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it.

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

FFA: Mark Baker, 1992

FA: S.Butler, 1992

The direct version of TWoAF. Has two options, either straight up from the 2nd bolt of TWoaF or moving R from the 4th bolt of TWoaF. Heinous either way.

The next three routes share the same start for 5 bolts to the lip of the roof. They then split.

Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF.

FFA: Warwick Larkin, 2009

Start: As for 'Bloodline' through roof, left a move and then straight up

FA: Julian Saunders, 2011

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified.

FA: B.Littleford, 25 Sep 2009

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of meters R of Bloodline.

Set 2017

Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31.

FA: V.Day, 2005

Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep!

Set by M Warren, Oct 2009

FA: Nigel Campbell, Aug 2013

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of 'Brain Hemorrhage'. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

FA: M Warren, 9 Sep 2009

The middle line, 5m R. Originally 22, but has crept up as thrutch skills have crept down.

FA: M Warren, 2010

Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity.

Go all the way to the TOP (old) anchor to earn the grade... the last move to the old anchor doesn't add a grade but sure adds to the excitement.

FA: G.Fieg, 1995

About 20m around the corner from GKOTJ. The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack.

FA: R.Young, J.Smoothy & J.Lamb, 1980

Crazy steep!

Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks, to very punchy move just past the lip of the big roof. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors.

FA: Paul Thomson, 11 Jul 2015

FFA: Ben Jenga, 19 Dec 2015

Activity

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