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KML KML

Description:© (mjw)

A lost world. Protected from the wind and sunny. Good for mid winter. Can be hot as hell in the summer!

Useful Info: Many of the bolt are working themselves loose so take care. If you want to do the easy climbs above the 'Dust Bowl' you will need to climb eithwe 'Hillbilly' or 'He-Man'!

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (mjw)

Drive down Hat Hill Rd past the emergency airfield (big sandy area on the left) the road turns to dirt here. Turn left at the next road - Godson Ave. Park on the right at the obvious bend. Take the fire trail until it runs out, head left (there is a track going straight ahead) follow track down below first small cliff then right around the small cliff to pick up track again. Fixed ropes down second small cliff, then right under cliff and above Hat Hill Creek. Continue past first 3 routes for 15m to steel rungs.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 *** Herminator

Start: The far lefthand route on the ledge. Watch out for the bees!

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

25
Sport 23m
2 *** Highside

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

23
Sport 23m
3 ** Hoderlump

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24
Sport 23m
4 ** Hysteresis

needs new bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1997

23
Sport 23m
5 * Histrionix

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

22
Sport 23m
6 ** Hisbollah

FA: M.Pircher,J.Smoothy, 1997

24
Sport 12m
7 * Hillbilly

Start: The 1st route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

24
Sport 15m
8 ** He-Man

Steepness.

Start: In the cave. Traverse to arete and up.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

26
Sport 15m
9 *** She Male

Steepness Plus.

Start: As for He Man but straight out through the roof.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28
Sport 15m
10 * The Fat Controller

Start: Batman. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

29
Sport 20m
11 Nancy Boy

Extension is open for takers.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26
Sport 15m
12 * Leftism

Start: Above small boulder to the left of the access point. Traverses left.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24 R
Sport 18m
13 ** Forever Midnight

Start: As for L but straight up.

FA: Derek Toulalan,

27
Sport 20m
14 Funk Soul Brother

Traverse.

Start: Traverse from 'Hillbilly' anchors right. 'Access' for the next 3 routes.

FA: M.Pircher,S.Grkovic, 1999

18
Sport 12m
15 * Kung Fu Fighting

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22
Sport 12m
16 * Fast as Lightning

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23
Sport 12m
17 * A Little Bit Frightening

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23 R
Sport 12m
18 Project 1
project
Trad
19 * Gluten Glutton

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25
Sport 15m
20 * The Diary of Ann Spank

FA: S.Steward, 1998

24
Sport 15m
21 * Rooky of the Year

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24
Sport 15m
22 * Strutt Your Funky Stuff

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23
Sport 15m
23 * Who the Fuck is Alice?

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23
Sport 15m
24 * Greg's Route

1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope.

FA: J.Grant, 1998

22
Sport 15m
25 Project (John)
project
Unknown
26 Wingman Anytime

Start: Lefthand route on the ledge proper.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21
Sport 15m
27 Bullshit Iceman

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22
Sport 15m
28 Twenty Something

FA: S.Steward, 1997

23
Sport 15m
29 Eurotic

Start: Righthand route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22
Sport 15m
30 Driving the Fat Farang

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

20
Sport 13m
31 Same Same But Different

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22
Sport 13m
32 Subwoofer

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

19
Sport 13m
33 Project
Trad

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