Jean Genie Area

  • Grades: AU
  • Photos: 9
  • Ascents: 972
  • Aka: The Nursery


Short, steep little routes - a perfect place to leave the kids for the afternoon.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.


Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Start: First route to the left of the gully steps. Committing finish.

FA: E Rutherford, 2006

2m R of RAR.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

As for JG then out R and up. Rebolted 2004.

FA: A. Prehn & R. Young, 1985

2m R.

Corner. Now not overgrown. There are a couple of rusting pitons that are best left alone. Small cams and wires instead. Will be great with a bit of a clean and some more traffic now there are lower offs.

Standard rack with extra small cams.

FA: A.Prehn, 1982

FA: A.Prehn, 1982

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

Marked 'ING' in white.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1985

Start at 'SOT' mark.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

FA: G.Colville, 2006

FA: Mitch Warren

Start as for Chicken Skin then rightwards traverse and through roof. Single staple belay. Back jump to clean.

FA: S Puchala, 16 Dec 2012

This is Grant's first 'new' route in the mountains, and all caught on camera - except the swearing! Could be harder than 23? Although he had a long draw on the anchor he still refused to take the tick until he could clip the actual chain! Im sure he will 'tick' everyone off about this in years to come if they attempt to claim the tick without doing the final mantle. The second ascentionist was also made to go to the chain, after falling off it one the first attempt. That's integrity for you!!!

Start: 5m right of SoT, at cairn.

FA: Grant Colville, 2006

Ah Ma...you shoulda seen it, you shoulda seen it..

Start: 4m right.

FA: M.Warren, 2011

FA: M Warren, 2011

Start: 4m right of 'It Beat a Circus'.

Set by M Warren, 2011

FA: M Warren, Apr 2011

At the right hand end of the cave just before Turkey Slap. A few jumpy jumps on some nice jugs will take you to the top.

FA: E Rutherford, 2006

About V4 - Old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted.

FA: R Bombala, 2007

FA: R.Bombala, 2007

Same start as 'Turkey Slap', but head right into a couple micro-crimps instead of the large pocket to the left. Follow chalk trail to the left till you reach the rail, than finish up same as 'Turkey Slap'.

Currently 27, due to it being a harder variant of 'Turkey Slap'.

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