A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bardens Lookout 177 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.225959, -33.564245

Description:© (secretary)

A better alternative to Wall's Ledge (Shipley Upper) for those looking for easier grades. Easy access, a great lookout, no hassles from walkers. The lookout was named after one of the council's grader drivers who cleared the area at the lookout.

Apart from the Northern end (to your right after going down the gully access), this crag caters for those climbing in the high teens to mid 20's. Great 'sport routes', a few good lines on 'natural' gear . A great combination of styles. Take a few bolt plates and a rack if you are planning to do some of the cracks - 'Haystack Madness', 'Kooks' - for example. The 'Anchor Renewal Fund' is putting a fair bit of effort into the crag at present so dont be alarmed if things aren't as the guide books tell you. Have a great time and take care of the place, particularly with regard to the natural vegetation and the car park.

Access Issues:© (secretary)

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

Approach:© (secretary)

4.1km after turning off the Great Western 'Highway', an obvious parking area and lookout is on the left side of the road. This is 200m past the northern exit to the 'Historic Wells'. Take the track right of the lookout down Barden's 'Gully'. The track splits near the bottom, take the track to the left for Jean Jenie/Electric Blue areas. Right takes you to Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's 'Gully' areas.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Lawsons Gully 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.219539, -33.556212

Approach:© (mjw)

The furthest righthand (looking out from the lookout) area of the 'Bardens Lookout' crags.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pressure Drop

Mossy, sometimes!

Start: Up the gully for about 25m. 'Steep' wall on the left. Starts of the small ledge in the centre of the wall. Belay bolts.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Bradbury,G.Moore, 1982

19Sport 17m
2 Joe the Lion

Groove, roof crack and wall.

Start: 13m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 2000

17Trad 40m
3 Lodger

Up to and over roof to ledge and belay.

Start: 5m right of JtL.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

20Trad 15m
4 Heroes

Groping!

Start: 11m right again. yellow rock.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

20Trad 20m
5 * Calamity Jane

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth.

FA: Ivan Valenta

26Sport 20m
6 ** Dragons Tooth

Classic.

Start: The corner.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders and Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

12Trad 30m
7 Project 1 projectUnknown
8 Mombassa - left arete of TS 20Unknown 25m
9 * Technical Stuff

Rebolted?

Start: 12m right of DT. Right side of the arete.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1979

17Trad 40m
10 * Hermaphrodite Hamster

Old 80's project rebolted.

Start: Up wall to R of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: March 2009

25Unknown 20m, 6
11 * Samnivel

Great wall climb. Thin in places. Rebolted 2009

Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy,S.Knight,R.Weigand, 1982

22Sport 35m
12 Mistral

Up onto blocks then corner to top.

Start: Crack 3.5m right again.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders, 1974

12 RTrad 30m
13 * Fohn

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princes DRBB lower off

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard, K Melville, 2009

15Mixed 25m, 1
14 * Panasonic Princess 21Unknown 22m
15 * Metabo Man

all carrots

FA: G.Short?, 2000

20Sport 25m
16 ** Mal's Mega Route

steep classic on good rock

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1982

23Sport 30m
17 ** Roger's Smegma Chute

A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited.

Start: Start up easy groove as for Mal's then 3m to the right.

FA: Roger, 2008

25Sport 20m
18 * Malignant Polymer

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand,G.Clark, 1983

22Trad 30m
19 Cosmetic

Start: 25m right of MMR. To bolt the up wall trending leftwards.

FA: D.Humphries,J.Smoothy,I.Anger, 1980

17Trad 25m
20 Here and Now (direct start) 19Unknown
21 * Here and Now

Has a choice of two starts.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

17Sport 20m
22 * Krell

Rebolted?

Start: 5m right of 'Cosmetic'.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Humphries,I.Anger, 1980

20Trad 30m
23 * Ferret's Route Direct Start

Awesome ! New bolts

23Unknown 25m
24 * The H'owl

Popular climb up a fine line!

Start: Obvious line up chimney then through corner and roof right of FR.

FA: M.Dunstan, 1974

19Trad 30m
25 * Ferret's Route 23Unknown 35m
26 * Stretch Marks

"His ex-wife died of stretch marks"

Start: On the wall 2m right of TH.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1982

21Trad 35m
27 * Laming Wall

The original route and the 'best' on the wall.

Start: 4.5m right of SM.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Humphries,I.Anger, 1980

21Trad 25m
28 Tais Free

Looks quite good too!

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

20Trad 25m
29 Are Turkeys Electric?

To ledge, over bulge and to top trending leftwards.

Start: 6m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,J.Muir, 1980

21Trad 25m
30 Cheat Notes

To ledge, around overhang, up left then up.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

23Trad 22m
31 Project?

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad
32 .

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

20Sport 25m
33 * Ferrets Route Direct

Rebolted 2009

Start: Right of K. Left side of the arete. Original start as for TH, then traverse left, but now rebolted so go direct.

FA: I.Anger,J.Smoothy,D.Humphries, 1980

23Sport 20m

1.2. Collits Crevasse 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.220568, -33.557526

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V-2 Schneider

Arete 23m right og the cravasse. Quite desperate!

Start: Marked

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

20Trad 20m
2 Mass Murder & The Modern Mosquito

Start: About 30m right.Marked.

FA: J Croker & R Starmer

18Trad 30m
3 Plug

Take big gear.

Start: Up chimney to roof, swing over and up wide crack.

FA: J.Croker,B.Ratter, 1974

13Trad 20m
4 * Rock'n Roll Suicide

Quite good. Rebolted.

Start: Marked.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

20Sport 40m
5 * Teenage Wildlife

2m right.Rebolted.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

21Sport 40m
6 Yeti

Start: 2m right at V Chimney.

FA: J.Crocker,A.Porter, 1974

11Trad 30m
7 Yeti Variant Finish

"Where no man has yet trod...again"

Start: As for Yeti.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

18Trad 20m
8 Hunger City

Hard start and an exciting finish!

Start: Marked.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

20Trad 30m
9 ** New Route with Big Cairn

FA: Pam and Glenn

21Unknown 20m
10 Busting Loose

More excitement through a roof.

Start: At overhang 3m right of HC.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

19Trad 30m
11 Teeny Bopper

Offwidth Roof. Soloed.

Start: 60m right of BL.

FA: R.Young, 1982

17Trad 30m
12 * Talking Heads

Start: Roof 2m right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

20Trad 25m
13 Making Movies

Marked.

Start: Below roof 6m right of TB.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,S.Hickson, 1982

21Trad 25m
14 Panic in Detroid

Roof, thin crack and wall.

Start: If you are coming down 'Bardens Gully' this is the first route to the right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,S.Hickson, 1982

20Trad 25m
15 Duty Calls 18Unknown 20m

1.3. Jean Genie Area 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.221593, -33.558275

Description:

Short, steep little routes - a perfect place to leave the kids for the afternoon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Red Arrow Route / Ed's Mossy Chips

Start: First route to the left og the gully steps. Committing finish

FA: E Rutherford, 2006

23Sport 15m
2 ** Jean Genie

2m R of RAR.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1983

24Sport 18m
3 * Who Killed Bambi?

As for JG then out R and up. Rebolted 2004

FA: A. Prehn, R. Young, 1985

22Sport 20m
4 * Crank Fatboy, Crank / Crank, Fat Boy!

2m R.

FA: B.Ashby, 2008

FA: B Ashby, 2008

27Sport 15m
5 * Zowie

Corner. Now overgrown. There are a couple of rusting pitons underneath the vegies. Would be good with a bit of a clean and some lower offs.

FA: A.Prehn, 1982

19Trad 30m
6 * Careless Memories

FA: A.Prehn, 1982

23Sport 12m
7 ** Major Tom

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23Sport 12m
8 * It's no Game

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1985

23Sport 12m
9 * Scheme of Things

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

23Sport 12m, 5
10 Puppy Fat

FA: G.Colville, 2006

23Sport 10m
11 * Chicken Skin

FA: Mitch Warren

24Sport 12m
12 Silver Side of Darkness

Start as for Chicken Skin then rightwards traverse and through roof.(Direct start still being projected!)

FA: S Puchala, 2012

23Sport 12m
13 ** Goosebumps

This is Grant's first 'new' route in the mountains, and all caught on camera - except the swearing! Could be harder than 23? Although he had a long draw on the anchor he still refused to take the tick until he could clip the actual chain! Im sure he will 'tick' everyone off about this in years to come if they attempt to claim the tick without doing the final mantle. The second ascentionist was also made to go to the chain, after falling off it one the first attempt. That's integrity for you!!!

Start: 5m right of SoT, at cairn.

FA: Grant Colville, 2006

24Sport 10m, 4
14 ** It Beat A Circus

Ah Ma...you shoulda seen it, you shoulda seen it..

Start: 4m right.

FA: M.Warren, 2011

FA: M Warren, 2011

24Sport 12m
15 ** Now I've Sure Got a Home in Glory Land / Now I've Sure got a Home in Glory Land!

Start: 4m right of 'It Beat a Circus'.

Set by M Warren, 2011

FA: M Warren, 2011

26Sport 12m
16 * Cave Route / The Cave-In

At the right hand end of the cave.

FA: E Rutherford, 2006

24Sport 10m
17 Turkey Slap

about V4 - old boulder problem from the early days. just had to be bolted.

FA: R Bombala, 2007

FA: R.Bombala, 2007

26Sport 7m

1.4. Little Triggers Wall 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.221740, -33.558449

Description:

Vertical climbing and easy grades.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Monkey Girl

Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave.

FA: P Mort, 2011

17Sport 18m
2 The Arrow and the Song

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

FA: Niall Doherty, Warwick Williams, 2010

15Sport 26m, 9
3 Karinya

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

16Sport 25m
4 Happy New Year

Bundy says it is the first route put up in 2007 anywhere in the universe! Start as for the previous route to finsh up the next on!

FA: Bundy, 2007

18Sport 25m
5 * Jolly Good Fellow

FA: D.Dewar, 2001

18Sport 25m
6 * Hermione

A Hawk lives in a cave on route. Its usually a Nankeen Kestrel.

The route is tagged and closed. Please give them their space and be careful when pulling ropes as a broken wing will mean a dead bird...and a dead bird will be disaster for us all. Take care - please!

FA: R.Young, 1998

17Sport 25m
7 * Mike and Lorna go to Town

3m R.

FA: M.Stacey,L McManus, 1988

19Sport 25m
8 ** Sound and Vision

This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them!

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

20Sport 20m
9 * Dr Do Little

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

21Sport 20m
10 ** Little Triggers

2.5 meters right of Dr Do Little. Thin start. Then through some overlaps

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

19Sport 25m
11 Change Junkies

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

20Sport 20m
12 * Go Lotto

Right of Charge Junkies (which is on carrots) Up through rooflets after a tricky move

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

20Sport 37m
13 * Starman

FA: R.Young, 1998

20Sport 25m
14 ** Hang onto Yourself

The arete.

Start: Start 2m L of the arete.

FA: R.Young, 1998

21Sport 20m
15 ** Lady Grinning Soul

Stick clip the 1st if you feel uncomfortable. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arete, eventually trending left to the arete and finishing up HoyT. Rebolted 23-12-2005.

Start: Start under the arete of HotY.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

21Sport 25m
16 *** Holy Leaping Shortarses, Batman

Trend a bit left off the block then up the face via desperate slab crux to the middle of the big, but easy, roof.

Start: Start on the elevated block 10m R of the HotY arete.

FA: M.Law, 1997

24Sport 15m
17 ** Lady Stardust

Rebolted 2004

Start: Start just R of HLSB.

FA: R. Young, A Prehn, M. Moorhead, 1983

21Sport 22m
18 Solvin Puzzle

A metre or so to the right of LS.

FA: F Pircher, 2013

17Sport 15m

1.5. Electric Blue Area 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.222473, -33.559025

Description:

Variety, a few short routes, classic sandstone slabbing and a bolted offwidth.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Low

its called LOW

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

21Sport 20m
2 ** Hunky Dory Left Hand Variant 22Sport
3 * Hunky Dory

Has two different finishes. Take your pick.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

22Sport 20m
4 * Changes

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

20Sport 20m
5 Frisky Two Times

Scramble up corner/ramp as for Piping Hot, move left then directly up on left line of bolts.

FA: Unknown, 2012

19Sport 20m
6 * Under Pressure

Slabbing. requiring a little thought

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young, 1983

22Sport 40m
7 * Piping Hot

Slabby Start: Continue up on rings where Electric Blue takes right hand traverse.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1983

22Sport 35m
8 *** Electric Blue

Takes some gear at the botton if you dont feel solid. Rebolted 2006. SSGIC's. A 'classic'.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 2000

19Sport 35m
9 Kooks

Crack (best to start up the blunt arete in front of the tree though) to offwidth. Has bolts and is worth the effort, old style offwidth just to test your nerves. Take big gear (#4 cams) if you have it - but you wont die without it! Lower offs!

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn

16Trad 35m
10 * Kate's Kangaroo Dance

straight up on rings to the right of kooks. has lost a few holds over the years

FA: D.Taylor, 2000

23Sport 15m
11 * Electric Boogaloo

Actually the line marked in the 'Pircher/Carter' guide as 'Desire'.

Start: Right as for D. Hard start then into corner with bolts and gear to lower offs. 2). Up corner and crack above to belay. Walk off. The top section is all gear at about grade 15.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

20Trad 35m
12 ** Desire

Start: Hard start then right across to choosy wall right of the corner. Up to top through easy stuff.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,M.Moorhead, 1983

20Trad 35m

1.6. Adults Only Cave 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Steep sport climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Way of All Flesh M0

Pumpy, steep Greatness!...and a cop out.

Start: Batman the first bolt of TWoAF

26Sport 22m
2 *** The Way of All Flesh

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

Start: Around the corner in the steep stuff.

FA: S.Butler, 1992

28Sport 25m
3 Project - Open projectUnknown
4 *** Booby Trap

Start: As for 'Bloodline' through roof, left a move and then straight up

FA: Julian Saunders, 2011

30Sport 20m
5 ** Bloodline

Whew...smiles all around!

FA: B.Littleford, 2009

31Sport 20m
6 * Brain Haemorage

Apparently good climbing but there may have been some slight 'drill slipages' by the route equipper!

Start: 4m right of WoAF.

FA: V.Day, 2005

30Sport 20m
7 * It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry

...my son accidently bought it on Gumtree.

Set by M Warren, 2009

FA: Nigel Campbell, 2013

28Sport 20m
8 * These Terrors be but Arguments for Children

Start: On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of 'Brain Haemorage'.

FA: M Warren, 2009

26Sport 12m
9 ** A Most Profligate Sinner

Old school sport route...would have been graded 17 in the early '70s.

Start: 5m right

FA: M Warren, 2010

22Sport 18m
10 *** George, King of the Jungle

Varied and interesting...not at all like the routes to the left. New bolts, sudden popularity!

The last move to the old anchor doesnt add any grade but sure adds to the excitement. Jump back and clean of the new anchors.

FA: G.Fieg, 1995

25Sport 20m

1.7. Madness Area 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Includes Haystack Madness. Area across the gully from Adults Only. A couple of trad lines, a couple of easy sport lines and some foolishness.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Haystack Madness

The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack. This route is before the gully and just around the corner from the Grown Ups.

FA: R.Young,J.Smoothy,J.Lamb, 1980

20Trad 25m
2 * The Friendly Jackal

Could do with a descent rap/lower off anchor! Take long slings.

Start: 33m right of the ravine. short wall to corner above.

FA: J.Lamb,J.Smoothy,R.Young, 1980

16Trad 20m
3 * Storm Child

Start: 3m right again. Through roof to ledge and out to arete.

FA: K.Shultz, 1992

22Trad 18m
4 Red Sails Direct

FA: J.Smoothy, 1996

21Sport 12m
5 * I Aint Never Kissed a Car Before

Set by GBradbury/JJackson (rebolt2013)

FA: M Warren, 2012

23Sport 10m
6 * Red Sails

Up through shale to nice wall above.

Start: 20m right of TFJ.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1984

21Sport 45m
7 Two Nil

Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

19Sport 25m
8 Back to the Kraut House

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

19Sport 25m
9 Unnamed Pircher 1

1m right of previous route. Choss to grey wall.

FA: 2013

18Sport 20m
10 Unnamed Pircher 2

500mm right again. Should probably stick clip these.

FA: 2013

17Sport 20m
11 Project - Mitch

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock wont be neccessary!

FA: Open, 2000

Sport Project
12 Karma

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

19Sport 20m
13 Mind Over Matter

Roof cracks to right hand corner, ledge, left to wall and up right to cave. Up.

Start: 38m right of RS.

FA: J.Friend,B.Eswald, 1976

20Trad 40m

1.8. Historic Wells 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.227607, -33.565342

Description:

A great little area 5 mins from Bardens. Also known as Land of the Giants.

Approach:

Either access by following the cliffline from Bardens proper or via Coxs Rd (walking track) from Bardens Lookout or New York parking areas. Please use existing parking areas.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Cat that Fought Back

Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB

FA: M Warren, 2011

14Sport 15m
2 Dirty Beasts

Right of TCtFB.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

15Sport 17m
3 Boatbuilding For Clancy

Rightmost of the slabs. Shares an anchor with Back to Back.

FA: Roslin Forrest, 2011

15Sport 10m
4 * Back to Back

Great beginners route.

Start: Easy corner to lower off.

FA: R.Young,S.Morton, 1985

14Trad 20m
5 * Statistical Scare Tactics

On the left hand end of the 'Nowra' looking wall.

Start: Do everthing you can to avoid climbing the corner (Back to Back)!

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

20Sport 15m
6 Evil Deeds with Good Intentions

FA: J.Jackson, 2011

24Sport 10m
7 * TheTwentyFour

Start: 5m right at the giant '24'!

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

24Sport 10m
8 ** Starseed

FA: S Puchala, 2011

20Sport 11m
9 Tree Beard

Start: Opposite the tree.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1984

21Sport 30m
10 * TheTwentySeven

Start: Right again at the giant '27'

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

25Sport 12m
11 Awesome Daddy

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor, 2012

18Sport 10m
12 Thanks Mum

Righthand route on short grey wall. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor, 2012

17Sport 13m
13 Thirty Eight

Open corner and roof on the orange buttress.

FA: S Meng, 2013

25Sport 17m
14 ** All the Madmen

Start: Left of 'Casper'.

FA: R.Young, 1998

24Sport 25m
15 * Casper

Corner, wall, roof and thin wall above.

Start: 4m LEFT of 'Quicksilver'.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

21Sport 25m
16 * Shabang

Great litle route with a seemingly hard to read crux.

Start: 5m right of 'Casper'.

FA: j Smoothy, 2011

21Sport 25m
17 When I Was A Cowboy

Blunt arete 5m right of Shebang. Arete, corner, bulge and slab!

FA: M Warren, 2012

21Sport 18m
18 ** Quicksilver

A couple of holds have now broken off and the route is not well bolted.

Start: 10m left of the corner.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

23 RSport 30m
19 Scooter Fun

15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.

FA: John Smoothy, Glenn Short, Giles Bradbury, 2011

22Sport 20m
20 Chocolate Crackle And The Mischievous Gnomes

Route directly up the middle of the wall on rings. Fixed hanger route starts on the right and traverses across.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

20Sport 20m
21 A4

Easy corner passing bushes to the top.

FA: M Warren, 2011

10Trad 25m
22 * Trick of the Light

Old style slabbing with a million ring bolts! Please dont too hard on the pedestal! Oh, and leave the goat alone.

Start: Middle of grey slab 3m right of the corner.

FA: Jacindie Jackson, 2011

16Sport 20m
23 Ed's Weird Little Thing

Up on blocks, through slab and up to bolt. Then traverse right crossing OO to lower-off.

Start: On the Grey wall left of OO. 2 pitches. Details unknown for this climb...?

  1. 10m (17)

  2. 15m (6) Up grey slab to more lower offs.

FA: W Rutherford, 2009

17Sport 25m
24 * Odie Odour

Corner crack, arete, crack to top.

Start: Corner.

FA: R.young,A.Prehn, 1983

15Trad 30m
25 Funkytown

Start: 3m right of 'Odie Odour'

FA: Unknown, 2011

20Sport 10m
26 * Bless Its Pointed Little Head

Orange corner, rooflet and flake.

FA: M.Warren, 2011

21Sport 20m
27 Movin' On Up

Start: 15m right, to the right of roof capped corner.

FA: Unknown, 2011

21Sport 25m
28 ** Use the Fork Luke

FA: P. Mort, G. Short, 2012

19Sport 15m
29 * Offwidth Joy

Start: Obvious 2m right of the project.

FA: J Smoothy, 2011

14Trad 25m
30 ** Alive 'n' Kicking

Probably the reason you came here. Should get heaps of ascents. At very end of the ledge. Up the middle of the undercut orange wall. Rebolted on rings 2011.

FA: M Stacey, L McManus, 1989

23Sport 25m
31 PROJECT - Bundy

Up AK, and then move right above undercut. Up the thin wall just left of arete.

Sport Project 23m
32 Primer

Access is via the lower level, just past A&K. Start in right-facing corner above track 5 m left of Monkey Grip.

FA: M. Franklin, A. Simson, 2013

18Sport 20m, 7

1.8.1. Other Routes 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad
Approach:© (mjw)

Continue past the steep stuff and past 'Rod's Ravine' and sometimes ,though not very often, creek. Unfortunately 'Rod's Ravine' seems to have become a toilet area of late!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Monkey Grip

Marked MG. Carrot and crack

FA: Rod Young

23Unknown 30m
2 Oliphant Wall 24Unknown 15m
3 Carabine 16Unknown 20m
4 Drivers Seat 18Unknown 20m
5 * Pandora 15Unknown 40m
6 * A1

Start: Scratched mark about 20m of RS

FA: Unknown, 2000

19Sport 20m
7 A4

Easy corner passing bushes to the top.

FA: M Warren, 2011

10Trad 25m
8 Project - Mitch M6 RSport 10m
9 * A2

Start: As for previous route then up right.

FA: Unknown, 2000

20Sport 20m
10 A3

Start: A few metres before MoM

FA: Unknown, 2000

18Sport 20m

1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.227669, -33.565318

Unique Features And Strengths:

Pump and steep

Description:

Large roof capped overhang and surrounding area south of historic wells. Is a good wet weather option as a few routes stay dry in heavy periods of rain.

Access Issues:

Presently (21.10.2014) many large fallen trees and limbs have obscured sections of track in initial access gully due to heavy snowfall last week. Not too hard to just walk around them , will get a saw down there eventually.

Approach:

Park at 'Historic Wells' signed turn off, approx 1klm before Bardens Lookout, then walk 35 mtrs along single trail back toward town, turn right at first orange hiker sign on tree, walk 20mtrs then walk down gully staying right until at base of undercut pillar on right. Then traverse left well under cliffs on wombat trail passing above fallen boulder. First route you pass by is 'non stop crush' on fine red face then cave is 100m around corner. 10min all up from car.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Non Stop Crush

climb corner to high first bolt (optional #1 cam) then up red face. Lost a crimp and gained a grade.

FFA: E.Wells, 2014

22Sport 17m
2 *** Mr Siegel

Seam 5m right of nsc. Bring doubles of #4 cam , then #0.4 , #0.5 , and #3. Stick clip first bolt then up. Sustained with a bit of everything.

FFA: Evan Wells, 9th Dec

23Mixed 18m, 6

Back on ground level is an abandoned line starting up left of steep corner (cams) to line of RBs traversing out to arette abruptly ending with no anchor. 3mtrs on is TCK (with extension on R side of high arette) and then NB before arriving at main cave. Non Stop Crush , The Coolabah Kids , Goat Chops ,Goats meat and Eyes of Faith all stay dry in the rain. Bitumen roof gets wet at the top crux.

3 ** Chicks Smashing Grunters

The extension to TCK.Craft a move past the TCK anchor , have a picnic, then up arette/scoop (crux) , crank through rooflet and up to DUB anchor.

Set by E . Wells, 2014

FFA: 14th Oct

26Sport 28m, 13
4 The Coolabah Kids

Bouldery and very steep number , bolted and climbed in heavy rain. Stickclip then get creative , pass a distinct crux @ 3rd bolt and power on up to lower offs. Stays dry in heavy rain. Stiff but lots of fun. A long sling on the belayer's bolt (FH)keeps the rope out of the way for the first moves and offers a sane way to clean draws without huge pendulum. Extension underway!

Set by E . Wells, 2014

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

24Sport 12m, 6
5 Closed project

Veers right two bolts after CSG crux section to jug then up hard wall ,closed project. My first real project I suspect. Gonna take some time!

Set by E .Wells, 21st Oct

30Sport Project 28m
6 Nobodies Business

Independent route 20 meters left of main cave leading up across low roof (crux) then up and left to nice moves and lower off.

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

23Sport 20m, 10
7 ** Eyes of Faith

Route on left side of cave taking line through right of prow to single u lower off on head wall. Punchy photogenic last moves in steep terrain! Best to back jump for cleaning.

FFA: E.Wells, 2014

25Sport 25m, 11
8 Goat Chops

Start 2m R of EOF through steepness with a crux in the middle to big rest then bust on through roof and pull lip (crux) then up head-wall another 8m with typical rope drag. Very gymnastic and lots of fun!

Set by E. Wells, 2014

FFA: E. Wells , J. Tam, 2014

26Sport 30m, 19
9 ** bitumen roof

Starts up corner then through series of rooflets. Work both sides of arette, then jug left to sweet headwall. A few extendable draws help with rope drag.

FFA: E.Wells, 2014

24Sport 30m, 13
10 *** goats meat

Another total pumper, pull over bulge at first bolt then up up up to steep finish. Good warm up for other two in cave.

FFA: E.Wells, 2014

23Sport 25m, 12

Over to the slab. All these routes require bolt plates.

11 Chonster

Campus start steeply past two fixed hangers then cruise slab past carrots to lower off at 20mtrs

FFA: E.Wells, 2014

19Sport 20m, 10
12 bubblegum dream

Around the corner, Two fixed hangers to line of BR's and lower offs at 30mtrs. Mostly grade 9 with a few moves down low. Can be used to top out. Bring 10 bolt plates.

FFA: E.Wells, J. Tam, 2014

18Sport 35m, 12
13 * Bubblegum Beach

Start as for Instant Pudding stemming corner then left to arrete (bolt) then up arrete with good protection to obvious crack. Nice moves to offwidth crux (#6 cam) then continuing up arette past horizontal finally veering left toward B.D lower off, clip this or keep it real and use natural pro all the way to the top cave (2BB) and walk or rap off. Bring 3 bolt plates, a single rack of cams, possibly doubles of #2 and some big cams too.

FA: Elliott Ashe , Clare Obarowski , Evan Wells, 2014

13Mixed 40m, 3
14 * Instant Pudding

Requires 10 bolt plates if doing it in one big pitch. Start far right of wall, stem dirty corner to first carrot on arete then traverse 15mtrs across lip of roof to optional 2xfh belay. Then up up passing beside a block you simply don't touch or step on to most comfortable belay in universe . A 50mtr rope doubled will get you to ground from this lower off.

FFA: E.Wells, R. Basset, 2014

10Sport 30m

1.9. York End 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Metabo 19Unknown 30m
2 Mombassa 18Unknown 25m

1.10. Below Car Park 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lorn's Route 21Unknown 35m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 A4 Trad 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
A4 Trad 25m 1.8.1. Other Routes
* Instant Pudding Sport 30m 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
11 Yeti Trad 30m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
12 ** Dragons Tooth Trad 30m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Mistral Trad 30m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
13 Plug Trad 20m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Bubblegum Beach Mixed 40m, 3 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
14 * Back to Back Trad 20m 1.8. Historic Wells
* Offwidth Joy Trad 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
The Cat that Fought Back Sport 15m 1.8. Historic Wells
15 * Fohn Mixed 25m, 1 1.1. Lawsons Gully
The Arrow and the Song Sport 26m, 9 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
Boatbuilding For Clancy Sport 10m 1.8. Historic Wells
Dirty Beasts Sport 17m 1.8. Historic Wells
* Odie Odour Trad 30m 1.8. Historic Wells
* Pandora Unknown 40m 1.8.1. Other Routes
16 Karinya Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
Kooks Trad 35m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
* The Friendly Jackal Trad 20m 1.7. Madness Area
* Trick of the Light Sport 20m 1.8. Historic Wells
Carabine Unknown 20m 1.8.1. Other Routes
17 Cosmetic Trad 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Here and Now Sport 20m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Joe the Lion Trad 40m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Technical Stuff Trad 40m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Teeny Bopper Trad 30m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Hermione Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Monkey Girl Sport 18m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
Solvin Puzzle Sport 15m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
Unnamed Pircher 2 Sport 20m 1.7. Madness Area
Ed's Weird Little Thing Sport 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
Thanks Mum Sport 13m 1.8. Historic Wells
18 Duty Calls Unknown 20m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
Mass Murder & The Modern Mosquito Trad 30m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
Yeti Variant Finish Trad 20m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
Happy New Year Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Jolly Good Fellow Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
Unnamed Pircher 1 Sport 20m 1.7. Madness Area
Awesome Daddy Sport 10m 1.8. Historic Wells
Primer Sport 20m, 7 1.8. Historic Wells
A3 Sport 20m 1.8.1. Other Routes
Drivers Seat Unknown 20m 1.8.1. Other Routes
bubblegum dream Sport 35m, 12 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
Mombassa Unknown 25m 1.9. York End
19 Here and Now (direct start) Unknown 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Pressure Drop Sport 17m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* The H'owl Trad 30m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Busting Loose Trad 30m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Zowie Trad 30m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
** Little Triggers Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Mike and Lorna go to Town Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
*** Electric Blue Sport 35m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
Frisky Two Times Sport 20m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
Back to the Kraut House Sport 25m 1.7. Madness Area
Karma Sport 20m 1.7. Madness Area
Two Nil Sport 25m 1.7. Madness Area
** Use the Fork Luke Sport 15m 1.8. Historic Wells
* A1 Sport 20m 1.8.1. Other Routes
Chonster Sport 20m, 10 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
Metabo Unknown 30m 1.9. York End
20 . Sport 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Heroes Trad 20m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Krell Trad 30m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Lodger Trad 15m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Metabo Man Sport 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Mombassa - left arete of TS Unknown 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Tais Free Trad 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Hunger City Trad 30m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
Panic in Detroid Trad 25m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Rock'n Roll Suicide Sport 40m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Talking Heads Trad 25m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
V-2 Schneider Trad 20m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
Change Junkies Sport 20m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Go Lotto Sport 37m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
** Sound and Vision Sport 20m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Starman Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Changes Sport 20m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
** Desire Trad 35m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
* Electric Boogaloo Trad 35m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
** Haystack Madness Trad 25m 1.7. Madness Area
Mind Over Matter Trad 40m 1.7. Madness Area
Chocolate Crackle And The Mischievous Gnomes Sport 20m 1.8. Historic Wells
Funkytown Sport 10m 1.8. Historic Wells
** Starseed Sport 11m 1.8. Historic Wells
* Statistical Scare Tactics Sport 15m 1.8. Historic Wells
* A2 Sport 20m 1.8.1. Other Routes
21 Are Turkeys Electric? Trad 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Laming Wall Trad 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Panasonic Princess Unknown 22m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Stretch Marks Trad 35m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Making Movies Trad 25m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
** New Route with Big Cairn Unknown 20m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Teenage Wildlife Sport 40m 1.2. Collits Crevasse
* Dr Do Little Sport 20m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
** Hang onto Yourself Sport 20m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
** Lady Grinning Soul Sport 25m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
** Lady Stardust Sport 22m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
* Low Sport 20m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
* Red Sails Sport 45m 1.7. Madness Area
Red Sails Direct Sport 12m 1.7. Madness Area
* Bless Its Pointed Little Head Sport 20m 1.8. Historic Wells
* Casper Sport 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
Movin' On Up Sport 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
* Shabang Sport 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
Tree Beard Sport 30m 1.8. Historic Wells
When I Was A Cowboy Sport 18m 1.8. Historic Wells
Lorn's Route Unknown 35m 1.10. Below Car Park
22 * Malignant Polymer Trad 30m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Samnivel Sport 35m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Who Killed Bambi? Sport 20m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
* Hunky Dory Sport 20m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
** Hunky Dory Left Hand Variant Sport 1.5. Electric Blue Area
* Piping Hot Sport 35m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
* Under Pressure Sport 40m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
** A Most Profligate Sinner Sport 18m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
* Storm Child Trad 18m 1.7. Madness Area
Scooter Fun Sport 20m 1.8. Historic Wells
** Non Stop Crush Sport 17m 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
23 Cheat Notes Trad 22m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Ferret's Route Unknown 35m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Ferret's Route Direct Start Unknown 25m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Ferrets Route Direct Sport 20m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
** Mal's Mega Route Sport 30m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
* Careless Memories Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
* It's no Game Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
** Major Tom Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
Puppy Fat Sport 10m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
Red Arrow Route Sport 15m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
* Scheme of Things Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Jean Genie Area
Silver Side of Darkness Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
* Kate's Kangaroo Dance Sport 15m 1.5. Electric Blue Area
* I Aint Never Kissed a Car Before Sport 10m 1.7. Madness Area
** Alive 'n' Kicking Sport 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
** Quicksilver Sport 30m 1.8. Historic Wells
Monkey Grip Unknown 30m 1.8.1. Other Routes
*** Mr Siegel Mixed 18m, 6 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
Nobodies Business Sport 20m, 10 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
*** goats meat Sport 25m, 12 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
24 * Cave Route Sport 10m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
* Chicken Skin Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
** Goosebumps Sport 10m, 4 1.3. Jean Genie Area
** It Beat A Circus Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
** Jean Genie Sport 18m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
*** Holy Leaping Shortarses, Batman Sport 15m 1.4. Little Triggers Wall
** All the Madmen Sport 25m 1.8. Historic Wells
Evil Deeds with Good Intentions Sport 10m 1.8. Historic Wells
* TheTwentyFour Sport 10m 1.8. Historic Wells
Oliphant Wall Unknown 15m 1.8.1. Other Routes
The Coolabah Kids Sport 12m, 6 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
** bitumen roof Sport 30m, 13 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
25 * Hermaphrodite Hamster Unknown 20m, 6 1.1. Lawsons Gully
** Roger's Smegma Chute Sport 20m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
*** George, King of the Jungle Sport 20m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
* TheTwentySeven Sport 12m 1.8. Historic Wells
Thirty Eight Sport 17m 1.8. Historic Wells
** Eyes of Faith Sport 25m, 11 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
26 * Calamity Jane Sport 20m 1.1. Lawsons Gully
** Now I've Sure Got a Home in Glory Land Sport 12m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
Turkey Slap Sport 7m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
*** The Way of All Flesh M0 Sport 22m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
* These Terrors be but Arguments for Children Sport 12m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
** Chicks Smashing Grunters Sport 28m, 13 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
Goat Chops Sport 30m, 19 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
27 * Crank Fatboy, Crank Sport 15m 1.3. Jean Genie Area
28 * It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry Sport 20m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
*** The Way of All Flesh Sport 25m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
30 *** Booby Trap Sport 20m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
* Brain Haemorage Sport 20m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
Closed project Sport Project 28m 1.8.2. Goats Meat Cave
31 ** Bloodline Sport 20m 1.6. Adults Only Cave
? Project? Trad 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Project - Mitch Sport Project 1.7. Madness Area
PROJECT - Bundy Sport Project 23m 1.8. Historic Wells
M6 Project - Mitch Sport 10m 1.8.1. Other Routes
project Project 1 Unknown 1.1. Lawsons Gully
Project - Open Unknown 1.6. Adults Only Cave