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Bardens Lookout
A better alternative to Wall's Ledge (Shipley Upper) for those looking for easier grades. Easy access, a great lookout, no hassles from walkers. The lookout was named after one of the council's grader drivers who cleared the area at the lookout. Apart from the Northern end (to your right after going down the gully access), this crag caters for those climbing in the high teens to mid 20's. Great 'sport routes', a few good lines on 'natural' gear . A great combination of styles. Take a few bolt plates and a rack if you are planning to do some of the cracks - 'Haystack Madness', 'Kooks' - for example. The 'Anchor Renewal Fund' is putting a fair bit of effort into the crag at present so dont be alarmed if things aren't as the guide books tell you. Have a great time and take care of the place, particularly with regard to the natural vegetation and the car park. |
Jean Genie Area
Short, steep little routes - a perfect place to leave the kids for the afternoon. |
Jean Genie Area |
23
Red Arrow Route
First route to the left of the gully steps. Committing finish. |
24
★★ Jean Genie
2m R of RAR. |
22
★ Who Killed Bambi?
As for JG then out R and up. Rebolted 2004. |
27
Crank Fatboy
2m R of JG. |
19
★★ Zowie
Corner crack marked Z at the base. Well protected with standard rack and has options for small cams and wires if the need arises. In dry seasons an overlooked classic which Would earn more stars with traffic ... in wet seasons not so much. Lower offs. |
24
★ Careless Memories
Roof and wall 5m right of Zowie |
23
★★ Major Tom
Bulges 4m right of Careless Memories. Move left at the lip and finish up Careless Memories. |
23
★ It's no Game
Marked ING in white. |
23
★ Scheme of Things
Start at SOT mark. |
23
★★ Puppy Fat
3m right of Scheme of Things. Hard yarding on poor holds. |
24
★ Chicken Skin
3m right of Puppy Fat. |
23
★ Silver Side of Darkness
Start as for Chicken Skin then rightwards traverse and through roof. Single staple belay. Back jump to clean. |
24
★★ Goosebumps
5m right of Chicken Skin. Popular. Thugging and zig-zagging through steep stuff. Back-jump to clean. |
24
★★ It Beat A Circus
Ah Ma...you shoulda seen it, you shoulda seen it. Start 4m right of G. |
26
★ Now I've Sure Got a Home in Glory Land!
Start 4m R of IBaC. |
24
★ Cave Route
At the right hand end of the cave just before Turkey Slap. A few jumpy jumps on some nice jugs will take you to the top. |
26
★ Turkey Slap
About V4 - old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted. |
27
★ Murky Flap
Same start as Turkey Slap, but head right into a couple micro-crimps instead of the large pocket to the left. Follow chalk trail to the left till you reach the rail, than finish up same as Turkey Slap. Currently 27, due to it being a harder variant of 'Turkey Slap'. |
Little Triggers Wall
Vertical climbing and easy grades. |
Little Triggers Wall |
17
★ Monkey Girl
Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave. |
15
★ The Arrow and the Song
Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up. |
16
★ Karinya
Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff. |
18
★★ Jolly Good Fellow
Pleasant wall 6m R of K. |
17
★★ Hermione
Updating previous description, there are now anchors and a full complement of ringbolts on this route. It looks (December 2015) like the natural line here is sharing the beginning of Quirrel's Quarrel) to the top of the block then moving left and up (gear placements and bolts). |
19
★★ Quirrell's Quarrell
Start at the rather redundant DRB which are 1.5m off the ground. Good climbing with loads of very shiny ringbolts. Exciting finale. |
19
★★ Mike and Lorna go to Town
3m R, incorporating a corner feature and some cruxy bits down low. |
21
★★ Sound and Vision
Marked SAV. This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them! |
21
★★ Dr Do Little
Start 2m R of SAV. Has a L-facing flake/corner at the start, and FHs. An easy romp to a tricky thin crux and low anchors. |
19
★★ Little Triggers
Marked LT. 2.5m R of Dr Do Little. Thin start, then through some overlaps. Best route on the wall. |
20
★ Change Junkies
1.5m R of LT. Half carrots, half fixed hangers. Good, wandering climbing. |
20
★★ Go Lotto
Marked GL. R of CJ. Ringbolts up through rooflets and a particularly hard move if you are short. |
21
★★ Starman
Between GL and the arete. A high first bolt you should stickclip. Then up through rooflet and the typical hard move to beautiful Bardens breaks trending R. Runout but safe. |
22
★★ Hang onto Yourself
The arête. You can start direct or traverse in from GL. Take care clipping third ring. |
22
★★ Lady Grinning Soul
Starts around the arete from HOY. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arête, eventually trending left to the arête and finishing up HOY. Stickclip the first bolt if needed. Rebolted 2005. |
24
★★★ Holy Leaping Shortarses, Batman
Start on the elevated block 10m R of the HOY arête. Trend a bit left off the block then up the face via desperate slab crux to the middle of the big, but easy, roof. |
21
★★ Lady Stardust
Start just R of HLSB, next to the steep gully. Careful to second bolt. Rebolted 2004, anchors 2016. |
17
★ Solvin Puzzle
A metre or so to the right of LS. |
22
★★ Low
Wall and obvious flake 5m R of gully. High first bolt, like all the routes on this platform. Bouldery at the bulge. |
22
★★ Hunky Dory Left Hand Variant
* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York. |
22
★★ Hunky Dory
Has two different finishes. Take your pick. |
20
★★ Changes
* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York. |
Electric Blue Area
Variety, a few short routes, classic sandstone slabbing and a (previously but no longer bolted) offwidth. |
Electric Blue Area |
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★ Frisky Two Times
Scramble up corner/ramp as for Piping Hot, move left then directly up on left line of bolts. |
23
★ Under Pressure
Thought-provoking slabbing. Much harder than the original grade of 21 since the crux hold broke off. Can get down on a 60m rope on stretch - tie a knot. |
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★ Piping Hot
Start up Electric Blue (trad gear), follow carrots until Electric Blue breaks right. Follow spaced rings upwards past plenty of technical slabbing to DBB. |
19
★★★ Electric Blue
Classic sustained slabby wall with some wonderful flake features. Takes some gear at the bottom (finger-sized nut or two and perhaps a #1 camalot). 7 bolt plates required for the top. Rebolted 2006 with SSGIC's. A 60m rope is just ok to lower off but tie a knot in the end to be sure. |
16
★ Kooks
After thousands of ascents as a sport route, the bolt chopping was communicated poorly, if at all, which continues to catch out un(der)-racked climbers to this day. So to be clear: this route now has no bolts. Corner crack to short chimney then hand crack to loweroffs. Recent cleaning efforts revealed good traditional protection all the way notably below the chimney section. A confident leader can safely lead with few medium nuts, double rack to #3 plus single #4 that can be slightly shuffled up until smaller gear is available. |
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★ Kate's Kangaroo Dance
Straight up on rings to the right of Kooks. Has lost a few holds over the years. |
20
Electric Boogaloo
Actually the line marked in the Pircher/Carter guide as Desire. Start as for D. Hard start then into corner with bolts and gear to lower offs. 2). Up corner and crack above to belay. Walk off. The top section is all gear at about grade 15. |
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★★ Desire
Hard start then right across to chossy wall right of the corner. Up to top through easy stuff. |
Adults Only Cave
Steep sport climbing. |
Adults Only Cave |
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★★ Flesh and Blood
Start left of cave on jugs then traverse past thin technical problem and keep traversing right on better holds and finish up wall and through roof left of TWOAF. 2 fixed draws. |
26
★★ Flesh-Eating Monster
Start up Flesh and Blood and keep traversing into TWOAF and finish up this for a mega pump. |
25
★★ Fleshpot
Batman start up TWOAF then at the 4th or 5th bolt go L and up through the roof to anchors on Flesh and Blood |
26 M0
★★★ The Way of All Flesh M0
Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner. |
28
★★★ The Way of All Flesh
Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker. |
30
Fleshline
TWOAF into Bloodline |
Project
Heading R from the 4th bolt of TWOAF is a closed project. |
Open project
Start up TWOAF then directly up from the second bolt. |
The next three routes share the same start for 5 bolts to the lip of the roof. They then split.
The next three routes share the same start for 5 bolts to the lip of the roof. They then split. |
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★★★ Pleasures of the Flesh
Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF. |
30
★★★ Booby Trap
Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up. |
31
★★★ Bloodline
Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified. |
32
Blood Clot
Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp. You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline. Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick. |
33
★★ A Lother One
As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all. |
31
★★ Brain Haemorrhage
Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31. |
29
★★ It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry
Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia |
26
★★ These Terrors be but Arguments for Children
On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off. |
24
★★ A Most Profligate Sinner
The middle line, 5m R. Originally 22, but has crept up as thrutch skills have crept down. |
25
★★ George, King of the Jungle
Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity. The climb finishes at the top anchor after the mantle, then either down climb or lower and rethread at the initial anchor to avoid trashing your rope. If you don’t go to the top you haven’t done the climb! |
26
★★ Insatiable
Starting just right of George. Quite the adventure. Some hard face climbing then onto the arete and up and finishing through final roof. The rope runs much better past the ledge if you clip bolts 5&6 then pull it through to get it out of the first 4 draws. |
20
★★★ Haystack Madness
About 20m around the corner from GKOTJ. The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack. |
26
★★ But the Raven, Sitting Lonely...
Crazy steep! Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks, to very punchy move just past the lip of the big roof. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors. |
Rod's Ravine
Less than 1 minute walk across the gully R of Adults Only. A couple of trad lines, a couple of easy sport lines and some foolishness. |
Rod's Ravine |
16
★★ The Friendly Jackal
Start 33m right of the Ravine at base of the roof crack. Resembles a waterfall in wet seasons. Short wall to corner above then head slight left to lower offs. Use long slings to minimize rope drag. |
22
★ Storm Child
Start as for The Friendly Jackal. Through roof to ledge and out to arete. Second bolt is hidden on a flat ledge up to the right of the first bolt. |
23
★ I Aint Never Kissed a Car Before
* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York. |
25
★★ Unknown 25 Sport Route
The 3rd bolted line R of The Friendly Jackal. Has "25" scratched into a piece of shale in the first few metres of the climb. |
22
★★ Red Sails Direct
Up and through horizontal roof 5m L of Red Sails, then up short thin face on red rock to chain lower off. Optional continuation up the original Red Sails to the top of the cliff. |
21
★★ Red Sails
20m right of TFJ. Up through shale to nice wall above. |
20
★ Two Nil
Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings. Step right at weird runout to anchor. |
21
Back to the Kraut House
As for Red Sails or start one ring to the right, then R and up. |
18
Eagles Nest
Around blunt arete 1m R of previous route. Choss to grey wall. Stickclip then nice and juggy. |
Project - Mitch
A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock won't be necessary! |
21
★ Karma
22m R of Red Sails. |
20
Mind Over Matter
Start 38m right of RS. Roof cracks to right hand corner, ledge, left to wall and up right to cave. Up. |
Historic Wells
A great little area 5 mins from Bardens. Also known as Land of the Giants. |
Historic Wells |
Other Routes
* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York. |
Historic Wells Other Routes |
16
Carabine
Marked. Start at flake 600m R of OW. |
18
Drivers Seat
100m R of C. Start at pod with crack above. |
15
Pandora
Just before you come to the power lines. |
19
A1
Scratched mark about 20m of RS. [Huh??] |
10
A4
Easy corner passing bushes to the top. |
M6 R
Project - Mitch
* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York. |
20
A2
As for previous route then up right. |
18
A3
A few metres before MoM. [Huh?] |
Historic Wells |
14
★ The Cat that Fought Back
Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB |
15
★ Dirty Beasts
Right of TCtFB. |