Routes as sport in Bardens Lookout

First route to the left of the gully steps. Committing finish.

2m R of RAR.

As for JG then out R and up. Rebolted 2004.

2m R of JG.

Roof and wall 5m right of Zowie

Bulges 4m right of Careless Memories. Move left at the lip and finish up Careless Memories.

Marked ING in white.

Start at SOT mark.

3m right of Scheme of Things. Hard yarding on poor holds.

3m right of Puppy Fat.

Start as for Chicken Skin then rightwards traverse and through roof. Single staple belay. Back jump to clean.

5m right of Chicken Skin. Popular. Thugging and zig-zagging through steep stuff. Back-jump to clean.

Ah Ma...you shoulda seen it, you shoulda seen it. Start 4m right of G.

Start 4m R of IBaC.

At the right hand end of the cave just before Turkey Slap. A few jumpy jumps on some nice jugs will take you to the top.

About V4 - old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted.

Same start as Turkey Slap, but head right into a couple micro-crimps instead of the large pocket to the left. Follow chalk trail to the left till you reach the rail, than finish up same as Turkey Slap.

Currently 27, due to it being a harder variant of 'Turkey Slap'.

Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave.

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

Pleasant wall 6m R of K.

Updating previous description, there are now anchors and a full complement of ringbolts on this route.

It looks (December 2015) like the natural line here is sharing the beginning of Quirrel's Quarrel) to the top of the block then moving left and up (gear placements and bolts).

Start at the rather redundant DRB which are 1.5m off the ground. Good climbing with loads of very shiny ringbolts. Exciting finale.

3m R, incorporating a corner feature and some cruxy bits down low.

Marked SAV. This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them!

Start 2m R of SAV. Has a L-facing flake/corner at the start, and FHs. An easy romp to a tricky thin crux and low anchors.

Marked LT. 2.5m R of Dr Do Little. Thin start, then through some overlaps. Best route on the wall.

1.5m R of LT. Half carrots, half fixed hangers. Good, wandering climbing.

Marked GL. R of CJ. Ringbolts up through rooflets and a particularly hard move if you are short.

Between GL and the arete. A high first bolt you should stickclip. Then up through rooflet and the typical hard move to beautiful Bardens breaks trending R. Runout but safe.

The arête. You can start direct or traverse in from GL. Take care clipping third ring.

Starts around the arete from HOY. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arête, eventually trending left to the arête and finishing up HOY.

Stickclip the first bolt if needed. Rebolted 2005.

Start on the elevated block 10m R of the HOY arête. Trend a bit left off the block then up the face via desperate slab crux to the middle of the big, but easy, roof.

Start just R of HLSB, next to the steep gully. Careful to second bolt. Rebolted 2004, anchors 2016.

A metre or so to the right of LS.

Wall and obvious flake 5m R of gully. High first bolt, like all the routes on this platform. Bouldery at the bulge.

Has two different finishes. Take your pick.

Scramble up corner/ramp as for Piping Hot, move left then directly up on left line of bolts.

Thought-provoking slabbing. Much harder than the original grade of 21 since the crux hold broke off. Can get down on a 60m rope on stretch - tie a knot.

Start up Electric Blue (trad gear), follow carrots until Electric Blue breaks right. Follow spaced rings upwards past plenty of technical slabbing to DBB.

Classic sustained slabby wall with some wonderful flake features. Takes some gear at the bottom (finger-sized nut or two and perhaps a #1 camalot). 7 bolt plates required for the top.

Rebolted 2006 with SSGIC's. A 60m rope is just ok to lower off but tie a knot in the end to be sure.

Straight up on rings to the right of Kooks. Has lost a few holds over the years.

Start left of cave on jugs then traverse past thin technical problem and keep traversing right on better holds and finish up wall and through roof left of TWOAF. 2 fixed draws.

Start up Flesh and Blood and keep traversing into TWOAF and finish up this for a mega pump.

Batman start up TWOAF then at the 4th or 5th bolt go L and up through the roof to anchors on Flesh and Blood

Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

TWOAF into Bloodline

Heading R from the 4th bolt of TWOAF is a closed project.

Start up TWOAF then directly up from the second bolt.

Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF.

Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up.

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified.

Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp.

You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline.

Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick.

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all.

Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31.

Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

The middle line, 5m R. Originally 22, but has crept up as thrutch skills have crept down.

Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity.

The climb finishes at the top anchor after the mantle, then either down climb or lower and rethread at the initial anchor to avoid trashing your rope. If you don’t go to the top you haven’t done the climb!

Starting just right of George. Quite the adventure. Some hard face climbing then onto the arete and up and finishing through final roof. The rope runs much better past the ledge if you clip bolts 5&6 then pull it through to get it out of the first 4 draws.

Crazy steep!

Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks, to very punchy move just past the lip of the big roof. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors.

Start as for The Friendly Jackal. Through roof to ledge and out to arete. Second bolt is hidden on a flat ledge up to the right of the first bolt.

The 3rd bolted line R of The Friendly Jackal. Has "25" scratched into a piece of shale in the first few metres of the climb.

Up and through horizontal roof 5m L of Red Sails, then up short thin face on red rock to chain lower off. Optional continuation up the original Red Sails to the top of the cliff.

20m right of TFJ. Up through shale to nice wall above.

Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings. Step right at weird runout to anchor.

As for Red Sails or start one ring to the right, then R and up.

Around blunt arete 1m R of previous route. Choss to grey wall. Stickclip then nice and juggy.

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock won't be necessary!

22m R of Red Sails.

Scratched mark about 20m of RS. [Huh??]

As for previous route then up right.

A few metres before MoM. [Huh?]

Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB

Right of TCtFB.

Rightmost of the slabs. Shares an anchor with Back to Back. Hard moves to gain upper slab if short

On the left hand end of the 'Nowra' looking wall.

Start: Do everthing you can to avoid climbing the corner (Back to Back)!

A nice looking line. Quite fun.

Start: 1m right.

Start: Opposite the tree. Features the hugest jug on the wall.

Start under rooflet, marked '25' in chalk.

Squeezed in on the prow on the far right side of the wall. Marked '26' in chalk.

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock.

Righthand route on short grey wall. Take care with the rock.

Between a project on the prow, and All the Madmen.

Originally graded 24, but clearly something has snapped off as it's at least 26 now. Bolted arete 1m left of Casper's corner. Starts up the short arete to ledge. Scary clip of next bolt, then up face to dyno move to roof??!! Hard move left above roof then easy crimpy face to cracked bulge up high. Has repelled some serious contenders.

Great litle route with a seemingly hard to read crux.

Start: 5m right of 'Casper'.

Blunt arete 5m right of Shebang. Arete, corner, bulge and slab!

Great orange rock, and still climbs very nicely despite a couple of broken holds. Not runout, if you stick clip the 1st bolt, and clip a bolt from the route to the left (60+ cm) to get the 3rd bolt safely clipped.

Start 2m left of the arete.

15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.

Route directly up the middle of the wall on rings. Fixed hanger route starts on the right and traverses across.

Old style slabbing with a million ring bolts. Pull gently on the pedestal and leave the goat alone.

Start: Middle of grey slab 3m right of the corner.

Up on blocks, through slab and up to bolt. Then traverse right crossing OO to lower-off.

Start: On the Grey wall left of OO. 2 pitches. Details unknown for this climb...?

1. 10m (17)

2. 15m (6) Up grey slab to more lower offs.

Start: 3m right of 'Odie Odour'