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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 * Cream Unknown 10m
2
13 Jam Unknown 12m
3
10 * Scones Unknown 12m
4
9 Ploughman's Special Unknown 10m
7
18 Jitterbug Exhaust Fumes Unknown 13m
9
14 Loddle Unknown 15m
10
17 ** Wall Street Sport 15m
11
14 Nutmeg Cake Unknown 15m
12
22 * Plastered Unknown 22m
13
24 ** Whingeing Dogs Unknown 20m
14
17 ** Double Exposure Unknown 20m
15
22 Seven Fingered Fun Unknown 20m
16
19 * The Crack Unknown 18m
17
20 Kamikaze Unknown 15m
18
17 Metacarpal Unknown 30m
20
16 Mendoza Unknown 25m

Flake 4m L of Loddle, then R diagonal crack

Set by Ian Sinden, Jeff Boyton

FA: 1989

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