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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!



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Grade Route
16 Cream Unknown 10m
13 Jam Unknown 12m
10 * Scones Unknown 12m
9 Ploughman's Special Unknown 10m
18 Jitterbug Exhaust Fumes Unknown 13m
14 Loddle Unknown 15m
17 ** Wall Street Sport 15m
14 Nutmeg Cake Unknown 15m
22 Plastered Unknown 22m
24 ** Whingeing Dogs Unknown 20m
17 * Double Exposure Unknown 20m
22 Seven Fingered Fun Unknown 20m
19 * The Crack Unknown 18m
20 Kamikaze Unknown 15m
17 Metacarpal Unknown 30m
16 Mendoza Trad 25m

Flake 4m L of Loddle, then R diagonal crack

Set by Ian Sinden & Jeff Boyton

FA: 1989


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