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Description

A small east-facing buttress opposite Duck Wall. From the descent gully, about 10m above the height of the Departures ledge, follow a faint track left (looking down) that heads up under a small outcrop (see bottom of p5). Then scramble down a short gully and follow the exposed ledge around left to the base of the climbs.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 Windscreen Viper Sport 10m

A short, steep and fierce corner with two solid fistjams separated by the obvious ‘windscreen’ feature. Last bolt is hard to clip. Consider taping up if you’re anticipating having an epic

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012

2
27 Sleet of Your Pants Sport 10m

Don’t bring a light belayer, as you might end up on the ground! Steep and gymnastic

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012