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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The furthest wall on shady side. About 40 metres past the Blowhole.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * The Apricot Slot Sport 14m, 9

start at left arête of the crag and head up then rightwards to the crux

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

2
22 ** Plumtastic Sport 16m

left route straight up to finish on overhanging prow

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

3
23 * Mango Chutney Sport 16m

up the wall with some welcome rests to the mini cave then try to finish

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

4
24 * Just Peachy Sport 15m

steep start then some reachy sustained moves with an open book corner to reward the effort

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012