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Description

Right of Sunnyside generally has easier, more vertical climbing and features a couple of long single pitch routes. It is not protected from the rain and is also very exposed to winds blowing up the canyon.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route

There is a second set off lower offs at 20m for the next 2 routes. Make sure you rethread if you dont have a 70m rope.

1
23 Avenue Jean Jaures Sport 35m

All the way to the top with intimidating and hard moves off the ledge at 8m and again at the lip of the roof.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2010

2
21 Little Dick Street Sport 35m

Long !!. Has 1st set of lower offs about 2/3s of the way - stop here unless you have a 70m rope.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

3
20 * La Femme Flic Sport 20m

The best of the trio here. Bit easier than its neighbour

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2010

4
18 Slip, Snap, Splash. Sport 30m, 15

The climb name came about after a bit of an accident on the access waterfall. Climb the spaced U bolts to gain the slab and then climb the left hand line. Cruisy climb up this nice wall with a coupe tricky moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

5
19 Fly Fury Sport

start as for slip snap splash for the first 3 bolts an then trend right and up an orange streak. long sling recommended on the 2nd bolt in traverse.

FA: Jay Trent, 2012