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Table of contents

1. Bell Supercrag 139 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295553, -33.535076


See http://bmtopos.com/ for the original online guide to this area.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Control Room 2 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.295980, -33.534246


A small east-facing buttress opposite Duck Wall. From the descent gully, about 10m above the height of the Departures ledge, follow a faint track left (looking down) that heads up under a small outcrop (see bottom of p5). Then scramble down a short gully and follow the exposed ledge around left to the base of the climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Windscreen Viper

A short, steep and fierce corner with two solid fistjams separated by the obvious ‘windscreen’ feature. Last bolt is hard to clip. Consider taping up if you’re anticipating having an epic

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012

26Sport 10m
2 Sleet of Your Pants

Don’t bring a light belayer, as you might end up on the ground! Steep and gymnastic

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

27Sport 10m

1.2. Arrivals (Lower) 30 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.295987, -33.535299

Unique Features And Strengths:

The most popular wall at bell. Gets early morning sun then goes into the shade for the rest of the day.


At the base of the descent rungs, same side of the creek. Climbs listed from right to left (facing cliff) as you head left from the rungs. Most names are not in general circulation as yet.......

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Jingle Bells

At the base of the descent rungs. Cant miss this one.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2009

21Sport 15m
2 ** GoGo Juice

Shared 1st bolt with TT then straight up the oranage wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

24Sport 15m
3 * Train Travel

Start at tree, then left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 16m
4 ** Ten No Trumps

Head left and up. Hard move at 4th bolt. Then nice big moves to top.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007

24Sport 16m, 7
5 Bell End

Right of the leaning left facing corner. This is the harder right hand start. Sandy and Snappy !

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2009

24Sport 15m
6 Bell End Direct

Nicer and easier start to BE

FA: Dr Chris, 2009

22Sport 16m
7 * Hop, Skip, Slump

Big span needed on this one...

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2007

28Sport 15m
8 ** Wet Paint

Up the open corner for 2 bolts then head rightish. Reachy and committing moves. Classic.

FA: Lloyd, 2007

24Sport 16m, 6
9 * Three Hour Commute

Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 17m, 7
10 * Three Hour Commute Direct

Start just left of WP. Up the thin steepnees and then join into THC for last easy moves to the top

FFA: Steve G, 8th Nov

26Sport 17m
11 *** Snappy Dresser

Start up the flake, and up to tricky headwall. Good !!

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

24Sport 15m
12 Bronze Bell

Start as per SD. Pull on to wall and tricky traverse left under the roof (long draws help), turn the lip and on to the face. Follow the seam, then easy flake and jugs to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

23Sport 18m, 9
13 Lovable Rogue

Not an obvious (or lovable) start. Hard moves through the roof, with a second tricky bit right before the anchor.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

26Sport 14m
14 Paddle Steamer

Yet another roof climb from the house of Wishart. Hard climbing through the roof to the right of the tree rewards you with a somewhat relaxing paddle up the short headwall

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

25Sport 13m
15 *** Paint God

Was known as "Orange Delight" before the guide came out. Thru thuggy roof and on to the wall. Move right and continue up the nice pumpy wall.

25Sport 20m
16 *** Autophagocytosis

A great and sustained linkup with consistent grade 25 climbing, making it a soft tick. Start up the first 3 bolts of Paint God, clip a new 4th bolt and do a hardish move to join Games Without Frontiers just in time for its crux. Then step left and finish up Apple Pie.

FFA: 2007

27Sport 20m
17 Apple Pie

Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse.

28Sport 22m
18 ** Caramel Sluice

Starts as for Cavity Search then head right at the first roof. Nice upper wall.

26Sport 22m
19 *** Cavity Search

Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs.

26Sport 20m
20 * Beresford


25Sport 17m, 8
21 Dirty 30

Steep long boulder start to a hanging slab and some easier climbing to a ledge. Sweet, interesting moves from the half ledge to the top. Bolted on my 30th birthday.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

25Sport 15m
22 Boysenberry Ripple

Hard start into crack and then continue to move diagonally up tending rightwards.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007

23 ** Crumple Zone

Up and then move left along the jug rail for 4 bolts then up with the crux right at then end. Short but action packed pumpy thin action.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

25Sport 8m, 6
24 Does My Bum Look Big On This?

Good route, with a hard leftwards traverse out the roof, the headwall is no walkover either.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

26Sport 12m, 6
25 Yes

Diabolical moves through the roof at the start, then easier climbing on great rock

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

28Sport 12m
26 * Rhubarb Crumble

Undercut start onto slightly overhanging wall past mantle trending left to anchors. Some prefer to stick clip the second bolt.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006

24Sport 15m, 7
27 I Don't Climb I Wobble

Starts up 'Rhubarb Crumble' and finishs at the same anchors. A couple of sharp holds down the bottom and a great reachy crux up top.

FA: Ben Lane, 2012

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

24Sport 15m, 8
28 * Jigger Jeff

Traverse rightwards on slab to ledge, hand traverse left then up steep jugs. A lot of people do the slab traverse and lower off the last ring on the slab, about 21

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006

23Sport 17m, 10
29 * Jigger Jeff (to the ledge)

Up JJ to fixed biner on the lip of the ledge.

21Sport 14m
30 Belayers Root

The far left hand route and easiest at crag.

FFA: N Monteith

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

19Sport 14m

1.3. Departures (Upper) 17 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.295903, -33.535302

Unique Features And Strengths:

The upper wall of the shady side. Doesn't see a whole lot of traffic but some very hard classic up there. Also some great easier routes down the northern end worth your attention on the walk out.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Lofty Lungfish

far end of ropes with triple belay. up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. backjump to clean

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27Sport 15m
2 Project Lloyd Wishart

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

Set by Lloyd Wishard

Sport Project 16m, 11
3 (Project Jenga) Brixton Jamm

Mmm this could be hard?? Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux off rest looks like its going to be very hard?? Double undercling madness.

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

Sport Project 15m
4 *** Radical Departures

One of the best routes at departures. Another of bells classic 30's

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

30Sport 20m, 9
5 * For Flake's sake

The OBVIOUS flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

23Sport 14m
6 * Hokonui Henchman

start at big flake and head up and right over bulge and in to blank overhanging corner and over the final roof

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

28Sport 18m
7 Project Steve

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at bell…?

Sport Project 22m, 12
8 ** Church Mouse

Dyno thru the roof and save some power for the finish. start left of G.R.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

31Sport 25m
9 * Grave Rat

Through the desperate roof and beyond

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

29Sport 25m
10 ** spent force

left of G.G. up wall and thru roof with some rests. shared start with G.R.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

27Sport 20m
11 ** Gushing gargoyles

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

28Sport 18m
12 Feisty Phasmid

Left of the 23, tricky start then good wall before hard thru the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25Sport 18m
13 ** Destined for Grayness

Starts to the left of the 24. Fun climbing.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

23Sport 12m
14 * Impatient Transport

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts.

FFA: lloyd wishart

FA: 2008

24Sport 12m
15 Freeway

Just left of project starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23Sport 16m
16 * Fridge Lifting

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 8th Nov

24Sport 15m
17 Welcome Alex

1st first route on the ledge. Awkward moves for a few bolts and then continues up 'FL' Probably not worth it - Do 'FL' instead.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 15m

1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side 13 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.297240, -33.532360

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mostly quite waterproof in the rain, although not the left side routes on the grey rock, nor the belay stances at both ends.


Cross the creek as for Sunny Side, but turn left and walk 50m round the corner to this crag. Take care at the left end, e.g. clip the belayer in, the belay ledge gets quite narrow with a fair drop below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Darkwing Duck

The far left hand edge of the cliff. Essentially a one sequence wonder with a tricky V4/V5 boulder problem crux in the middle. Clip the first bolt on "How Much is a Duck Worth" then move left and follow the line of bolts with increasing difficulty to the anchors.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: Gene Gill, 2013

25Sport 15m, 8
2 How Much Is A Duck Worth

Scarily loose, should probably finish under the roof.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

17Sport 15m
3 Cygnet

Links Gosling into HMiaDW via the obvious leftward continuation and a few interesting moves in the middle. Climbs well.

FA: LinkUp - Paul Thomson, Jason Lammers, 2013

19Sport 18m
4 Gosling

Shared first bolt with Duckling and then Left

FA: Jason Lammers and Paul Thomson, 2013

18Sport 12m, 4
5 Duckling

Shared first bolt with Gosling and then Right.

FA: Jason Lammers and Paul Thomson, 2013

20Sport 12m, 4
6 Out For A Duck

Nice face to steeper hard glued up finish.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

23Sport 15m
7 *** Pluck-a-Duck

Superb wall and steep headwall, the last mantle move could be a heart breaker. One of the best 24's at Bell !!

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2011

24Sport 15m, 10
8 *** Duck Walk

Sustained and thin technical climbing, one of the best 26's at bell. This route is the full package and should be on your too do list.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

26Sport 18m
9 ** Quack Attack

Harder if your short

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

27Sport 15m
10 ** Scrooge McDuck

Start up Daffy (22) until back on the jugs after the thin leftward traverse crux, then follow line of bolts immediately leftwards through steepness and with increasing difficulty, finish back right with a tricky move on the headwall.

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2013

23Sport 25m
11 ** Daffy

Keeps going above the ledge up the little headwall. Good sustained climbing and steeper then it looks.

FA: Ben Lane, 2012

22Sport 20m
12 Pekin Duck

Links the start of Daffy just before the crux into the top of Lucky Duck via the corner ramp. No extra bolts so expect to hold on tight.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

13 ** Lucky Duck

The obvious seam to steepness. A few different ways to do the crux, the directly up the seam is the 22 version.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

22Sport 15m, 7

1.5. Sunny Side 19 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.297011, -33.535119

Unique Features And Strengths:

The main wall you see as you walk in also one of the most popular walls at bell, perfect for a sunny winter day or summer morning.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Seamstress

The first climb on the sunnside and one of the best. Clearly be seen from shady side. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning corner

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

22Sport 22m
2 ** Seamstress Direct

Boulder up the steep seam on gastons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 Seamstress.


FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011

26Sport 20m
3 * An Angel Walks By

Lots of fun with slopers, pumpers and a couple of moves over the roof

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

23Sport 23m, 13
4 ** Searching for the Light

The first half of this line provides a popular jug haul through scoops to the anchor at the halfway ledge.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

23Sport 15m
5 * Searching for the Light Extension

The second half is also very worthwhile, with an intriguing crimpy sequence requiring good footwork,followed by a small rooflet

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

26Sport 30m
6 * Troc de l’Ile

Climbs to the half-way ledge via some huge pockets and a couple of not so huge crimps. Can be used as an alternative start to Searching for the Light Extension

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

24Sport 15m
7 When the Spirits are Calling

Much more difficult than it looks, with unexpected and unusual moves. The rock is a bit crunchy.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

8 ** The Dreaming Void

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof.

25Sport 29m, 12
9 ** Parallax error

Stick clip first bolt. Boulder move then big moves, cave is in, more big moves. Crux through bulg onto face moves. Half way break and continue left up The Dreaming Void to top. Long and fun.

27Sport 30m, 12
10 A Rover in Time

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

24Sport 15m
11 ** A Rover in Time Extension

looks very thin just above the Rover in Time anchor

26Sport 30m, 16
12 *** House of Suns

An easy start provides access to the magnificent second half. Move slightly left at the last bolt before finishing directly up to the anchors. The upper half looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

30Sport 25m, 11
13 *** The Reality Dysfunction / The Awesome 25

Ultra classic

25Sport 22m
14 *** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup

Link Reality Dysfunction into La Realite ...

26Sport 30m, 11
15 ** La Realite N’Existe Pas

Start up Event Horizon then head L

28Sport 22m, 10
16 *** Event Horizon

Ultra classic. Was mistakenly called Reality Dysfunction for a couple of years until the FAs actually told anyone the route names. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split but good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

27Sport 22m
17 * Quel Bordel

Interesting steep climbing with a bit of crap rock at the bottom. Shares the same first two bolts with Year of the sun bear.

FFA: 2013

24Sport 20m, 11
18 Year of the Sun Bear

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

25Sport 20m, 10
19 * Accretion

The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing. Now a Consumer Classic!

A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there.

It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 23rd Oct

20Sport 35m, 15

1.6. Jean Jaurès Wall 5 routes in Cliff


Long/Lat: 150.296690, -33.535818


Right of Sunnyside generally has easier, more vertical climbing and features a couple of long single pitch routes. It is not protected from the rain and is also very exposed to winds blowing up the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

There is a second set off lower offs at 20m for the next 2 routes. Make sure you rethread if you dont have a 70m rope.

1 Avenue Jean Jaures

All the way to the top with intimidating and hard moves off the ledge at 8m and again at the lip of the roof.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2010

23Sport 35m
2 Little Dick Street

Long !!. Has 1st set of lower offs about 2/3s of the way - stop here unless you have a 70m rope.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

21Sport 35m
3 * La Femme Flic

The best of the trio here. Bit easier than its neighbour

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2010

20Sport 20m
4 Slip, Snap, Splash.

The climb name came about after a bit of an accident on the access waterfall. Climb the spaced U bolts to gain the slab and then climb the left hand line. Cruisy climb up this nice wall with a coupe tricky moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

18Sport 30m, 15
5 Fly Fury

start as for slip snap splash for the first 3 bolts an then trend right and up an orange streak. long sling recommended on the 2nd bolt in traverse.

FA: Jay Trent, 2012


1.7. Treble Clef 9 routes in Cliff


Long/Lat: 150.296732, -33.536659


Features several very worthwhile climbs that are either short, or longer but broken up into short sections separated by good rests. Reached by walking 5 minutes further along the track that passes under the base of Jean Jaures Wall. When you get to the end of the rock platform, head up the slabs, then follow the track across the normally dry stream and up the slope, where you will arrive at the right end of the main Treble Clef wall (under Little Black Duress). Morning shade. The tops of almost all the routes get wet from rain

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yo Ho Sebastian!

Long juggy climb with overhung start. Start left of waterfall, about 20m left of the main Treble Clef all. Take lots of quickdraws - maybe 12+.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2012

20Sport 30m
2 ** Bob's Your Uncle

Short left facing corner on left end of wall. Lovely rock.

FFA: Martin Pircher, 2011

21Sport 12m
3 * Trawling for trilobytes

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

27Sport 20m
4 * Tri as you might

middle of the wall. hardest near the start but keeps coming.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25Sport 18m
5 ** Tryptych

3 parts to this climb to test the all rounder

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

26Sport 18m
6 ** Waterfool

right end of crag on the orange rock

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

28Sport 15m
7 ** Little Black Duress

on the black rock with 3 boulder problems.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27Sport 10m
8 * Jelly Belly

start 10m right of L.B.D. Up the wall and flake feature to crux dyno. This used to be grade 21 but a key hold snapped off the end so now it's harder.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

22Sport 15m
9 * Bellicose Nose

do the direct start (or not) and then up the blunt arete

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

26Sport 15m

1.8. Devils Circus 16 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.295930, -33.537242

Unique Features And Strengths:

The big bad hard man super roof cave at the far end of the sunny side of the gorge. Home of the mega classic roof climb Mr Redeemer.


See http://bmtopos.com for more.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * PHM3

Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

24Sport 10m, 6
2 Short steep proj at left end

Set by Megan Turnbull.

Sport Project
3 ** Circle of Doom

Awesome climb of mixed styles.Can seep after long periods of rain.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

26Sport 15m, 8
4 * The dark hour of reason

Good crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Next climb right from C.O.D.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2009

27Sport 15m
5 * Cavern fever

right of T.D.H.O.R. hard start if you are short but nice after that. grade 26 if you are tall?

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

27Sport 18m
6 Gods Forgotten Brother

Really hard first move then out roof flakes/breaks

7 * perch, search and lurch

start at cairn and go left to ledge and burst a vein trying to leave. cruxy

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

28Sport 18m
8 Fast Forward the Future 31Sport
9 Victim of Imagination

The direct start to fast forward the future. The twin underclings in the roof look V11...

Set by Steve Grkovic

Sport Project 17m, 8
10 *** Mr Redeemer

One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys

27Sport 18m, 10
11 Epsilon Asylum 27Sport 18m, 10
12 ** Zodiac Youth

start right of E.A.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

29Sport 18m
13 *** Space between atoms

Twin side pulls in the top half, popular 30 in the area.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

30Sport 18m
14 ** La Nina

big move at the start then head up and left for the crux

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

29Sport 16m
15 * Justifiable actions

short route but you need to work hard to finish

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

26Sport 12m
16 ** random and unusual fusion

enjoyable moves all the way

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

26Sport 12m

1.9. The Outpost 6 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.293642, -33.537235


The furthest wall on sunny side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Snout with Clout

left end of the crag. straight up through steep jugging until the finish

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

24Sport 18m
2 * Spouting Outing

At the shared start but trending up and left to join S.W.C. anchors

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

27Sport 18m
3 ** Krout Kream

shared start then slightly right and up

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

30Sport 18m
4 *** Code Brown

shared start then low and right before heading up the steepness

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

29Sport 18m
5 * Grouted Trout

up the middle of the far vertical wall. some slabby action

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

23Sport 16m
6 * Crouton Ragout

right side of the slabby wall. solid start

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

23Sport 17m

1.10. Blow Hole 18 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.294982, -33.536284


About 50 metres around the corner from the last climb on Western Tier (Shady Side) Lower.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Blowtorch

Short roof to start the swing up to the wall on slopey jugs, varied climbing with a committing move up high.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012

24Sport 18m
2 * Whistleblower

start at juggy prow and up wall to ledge then try to find the crux holds in time

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

23Sport 15m
3 * Thar she blows

Up short wall to big juggy roof.

FA: Lloyd, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

24Sport 15m
4 * Body Blow

middle of crag. up wall and out the roof on flakes etc heading rightwards to finish

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

24Sport 12m
5 PROJECT1 Sport Project
6 ** Holelipstick Hippy

Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

25Sport 16m
7 * Blowpipe Blast

24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

28Sport 14m, 12
8 * Bloated Blowfish

Hard start, Hard finish

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27Sport 16m
9 *** Up.

Action packed new route up the arete right of blow. Big start move then hold on through some steep moves to a ledge. Hard face moves follow then great jugs to the top. If the first move is to big then start up Blow and traverse across.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

24Sport 18m
10 * Blow

Tricky start then nice finger jugs on great orange rock. Just left of blunt orange arête.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 16m, 6
11 Blow-by-Blow - Bundy PRO

The Blow extension. From the anchors of Blow - continue up and leftwards to lower off at the top of the cliff.

Sport Project
12 Bundy - Project

Left of Blow

Sport Project 20m

The following section has some really good easier graded routes. Stays in the shade here till just after lunch. Lots of bolts and convenience are the name of the game here !

13 Megan 2

Bit of a thin move about 1/3 of the way up

21Sport 20m
14 * P H M 2 - Extended

The second last bolt on Megan is next to the anchors on this one so you might as well keep going to the top of the cliff and clip another (hidden) bolt on the way and lower off Megan.

FA: Linkup

19Sport 20m
15 ** Megan 1

Tricky start and exciting finish, there is a hidden bolt before the last move.

20Sport 20m
16 P H M 2

Nice interesting pockets.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

17Sport 15m
17 P H M 1

Up and leftwards. Jugs !!!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

16Sport 15m
18 * Megan 3

The leftmost jug fest at the blow hole.

15Sport 15m

1.11. Fox Hole 4 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Apricot Slot

start at left arête of the crag and head up then rightwards to the crux

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

24Sport 14m, 9
2 ** Plumtastic

left route straight up to finish on overhanging prow

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

22Sport 16m
3 * Mango Chutney

up the wall with some welcome rests to the mini cave then try to finish

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

23Sport 16m
4 ** Just Peachy

steep start then some reachy sustained moves with an open book corner to reward the effort

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

24Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
15 * Megan 3 Sport 15m 1.10. Blow Hole
16 P H M 1 Sport 15m 1.10. Blow Hole
17 How Much Is A Duck Worth Sport 15m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
P H M 2 Sport 15m 1.10. Blow Hole
18 Gosling Sport 12m, 4 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
Slip, Snap, Splash. Sport 30m, 15 1.6. Jean Jaurès Wall
19 Belayers Root Sport 14m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Cygnet Sport 18m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
Fly Fury Sport 1.6. Jean Jaurès Wall
* P H M 2 - Extended Sport 20m 1.10. Blow Hole
20 Duckling Sport 12m, 4 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
Pekin Duck Sport 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
* Accretion Sport 35m, 15 1.5. Sunny Side
* La Femme Flic Sport 20m 1.6. Jean Jaurès Wall
Yo Ho Sebastian! Sport 30m 1.7. Treble Clef
** Megan 1 Sport 20m 1.10. Blow Hole
21 * Jigger Jeff (to the ledge) Sport 14m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Jingle Bells Sport 15m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
When the Spirits are Calling Sport 1.5. Sunny Side
Little Dick Street Sport 35m 1.6. Jean Jaurès Wall
** Bob's Your Uncle Sport 12m 1.7. Treble Clef
Megan 2 Sport 20m 1.10. Blow Hole
22 Bell End Direct Sport 16m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Three Hour Commute Sport 17m, 7 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Train Travel Sport 16m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Daffy Sport 20m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
** Lucky Duck Sport 15m, 7 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
*** Seamstress Sport 22m 1.5. Sunny Side
* Jelly Belly Sport 15m 1.7. Treble Clef
* Blow Sport 16m, 6 1.10. Blow Hole
** Plumtastic Sport 16m 1.11. Fox Hole
23 Boysenberry Ripple Sport 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Bronze Bell Sport 18m, 9 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Jigger Jeff Sport 17m, 10 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Destined for Grayness Sport 12m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
* For Flake's sake Sport 14m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Freeway Sport 16m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Welcome Alex Sport 15m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Out For A Duck Sport 15m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
** Scrooge McDuck Sport 25m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
* An Angel Walks By Sport 23m, 13 1.5. Sunny Side
** Searching for the Light Sport 15m 1.5. Sunny Side
Avenue Jean Jaures Sport 35m 1.6. Jean Jaurès Wall
* Crouton Ragout Sport 17m 1.9. The Outpost
* Grouted Trout Sport 16m 1.9. The Outpost
* Whistleblower Sport 15m 1.10. Blow Hole
* Mango Chutney Sport 16m 1.11. Fox Hole
24 Bell End Sport 15m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** GoGo Juice Sport 15m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
I Don't Climb I Wobble Sport 15m, 8 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Rhubarb Crumble Sport 15m, 7 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
*** Snappy Dresser Sport 15m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Ten No Trumps Sport 16m, 7 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Wet Paint Sport 16m, 6 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Fridge Lifting Sport 15m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
* Impatient Transport Sport 12m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
*** Pluck-a-Duck Sport 15m, 10 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
A Rover in Time Sport 15m 1.5. Sunny Side
* Quel Bordel Sport 20m, 11 1.5. Sunny Side
* Troc de l’Ile Sport 15m 1.5. Sunny Side
* PHM3 Sport 10m, 6 1.8. Devils Circus
* Snout with Clout Sport 18m 1.9. The Outpost
** Blowtorch Sport 18m 1.10. Blow Hole
* Body Blow Sport 12m 1.10. Blow Hole
* Thar she blows Sport 15m 1.10. Blow Hole
*** Up. Sport 18m 1.10. Blow Hole
** Just Peachy Sport 15m 1.11. Fox Hole
* The Apricot Slot Sport 14m, 9 1.11. Fox Hole
25 * Beresford Sport 17m, 8 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Crumple Zone Sport 8m, 6 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Dirty 30 Sport 15m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Paddle Steamer Sport 13m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
*** Paint God Sport 20m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Feisty Phasmid Sport 18m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Darkwing Duck Sport 15m, 8 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
** The Dreaming Void Sport 29m, 12 1.5. Sunny Side
*** The Reality Dysfunction Sport 22m 1.5. Sunny Side
Year of the Sun Bear Sport 20m, 10 1.5. Sunny Side
* Tri as you might Sport 18m 1.7. Treble Clef
** Holelipstick Hippy Sport 16m 1.10. Blow Hole
26 Windscreen Viper Sport 10m 1.1. Control Room
** Caramel Sluice Sport 22m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
*** Cavity Search Sport 20m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Does My Bum Look Big On This? Sport 12m, 6 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Lovable Rogue Sport 14m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Three Hour Commute Direct Sport 17m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
*** Duck Walk Sport 18m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
** A Rover in Time Extension Sport 30m, 16 1.5. Sunny Side
*** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup Sport 30m, 11 1.5. Sunny Side
** Seamstress Direct Sport 20m 1.5. Sunny Side
* Searching for the Light Extension Sport 30m 1.5. Sunny Side
* Bellicose Nose Sport 15m 1.7. Treble Clef
** Tryptych Sport 18m 1.7. Treble Clef
** Circle of Doom Sport 15m, 8 1.8. Devils Circus
* Justifiable actions Sport 12m 1.8. Devils Circus
** random and unusual fusion Sport 12m 1.8. Devils Circus
27 Sleet of Your Pants Sport 10m 1.1. Control Room
*** Autophagocytosis Sport 20m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Lofty Lungfish Sport 15m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
** spent force Sport 20m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
** Quack Attack Sport 15m 1.4. Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
*** Event Horizon Sport 22m 1.5. Sunny Side
** Parallax error Sport 30m, 12 1.5. Sunny Side
** Little Black Duress Sport 10m 1.7. Treble Clef
* Trawling for trilobytes Sport 20m 1.7. Treble Clef
* Cavern fever Sport 18m 1.8. Devils Circus
Epsilon Asylum Sport 18m, 10 1.8. Devils Circus
*** Mr Redeemer Sport 18m, 10 1.8. Devils Circus
* The dark hour of reason Sport 15m 1.8. Devils Circus
* Spouting Outing Sport 18m 1.9. The Outpost
* Bloated Blowfish Sport 16m 1.10. Blow Hole
28 Apple Pie Sport 22m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
* Hop, Skip, Slump Sport 15m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
Yes Sport 12m 1.2. Arrivals (Lower)
** Gushing gargoyles Sport 18m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
* Hokonui Henchman Sport 18m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
** La Realite N’Existe Pas Sport 22m, 10 1.5. Sunny Side
** Waterfool Sport 15m 1.7. Treble Clef
Gods Forgotten Brother Sport 1.8. Devils Circus
* perch, search and lurch Sport 18m 1.8. Devils Circus
* Blowpipe Blast Sport 14m, 12 1.10. Blow Hole
29 * Grave Rat Sport 25m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
** La Nina Sport 16m 1.8. Devils Circus
** Zodiac Youth Sport 18m 1.8. Devils Circus
*** Code Brown Sport 18m 1.9. The Outpost
30 *** Radical Departures Sport 20m, 9 1.3. Departures (Upper)
*** House of Suns Sport 25m, 11 1.5. Sunny Side
*** Space between atoms Sport 18m 1.8. Devils Circus
** Krout Kream Sport 18m 1.9. The Outpost
31 ** Church Mouse Sport 25m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Fast Forward the Future Sport 1.8. Devils Circus
? (Project Jenga) Brixton Jamm Sport Project 15m 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Project Lloyd Wishart Sport Project 16m, 11 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Project Steve Sport Project 22m, 12 1.3. Departures (Upper)
Short steep proj at left end Sport Project 1.8. Devils Circus
Victim of Imagination Sport Project 17m, 8 1.8. Devils Circus
Blow-by-Blow - Bundy PRO Sport Project 1.10. Blow Hole
Bundy - Project Sport Project 20m 1.10. Blow Hole
PROJECT1 Sport Project 1.10. Blow Hole