Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Control Room | |||||
26 | ★★ Windscreen Viper
A short, steep and fierce corner with two solid fistjams separated by the obvious ‘windscreen’ feature. Last bolt is hard to clip. Consider taping up if you’re anticipating having an epic FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012 | 10m | |||
27 | Sleet of Your Pants
Don’t bring a light belayer, as you might end up on the ground! Steep and gymnastic FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012 | 10m | |||
Arrivals (Lower) | |||||
21 | ★★ Jingle Bells
Up following flake to overhang. FA: Martin Pircher, 2009 | 15m | |||
25 | ★ Caught in the ..
Just left of Jingle Bells. A few thin moves once you get past half way. FA: megan turnbull, 2015 | 12m | |||
24 | ★★ GoGo Juice
Shared 1st bolt with TT then straight up the oranage wall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Train Travel
Start at tree, then left. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 16m | |||
24 | ★★ Ten No Trumps
Head left and up. Hard move at 4th bolt. Then nice big moves to top. Lower-offs added 25/04/2018. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007 | 16m, 7 | |||
24 | Bell End
Right of the leaning left facing corner. This is the harder right hand start. Sandy and Snappy ! FA: Matt Pascoe, 2009 | 15m | |||
22 | Bell End Direct
Nicer and easier start to BE FA: Dr Chris, 2009 | 16m | |||
★★ The Un~Bell Leaveable Trad Corner Crack
The obvious trad corner crack (a few metres left of Bell End in case you miss it). Up corner to below roof, build a nest of small gear then head right to arête, around it and up to ledge. Gear here is not the best but up and over to the left is better. Up to below next rooflet then right and up to anchors. Cams, C3's, wires. | 17m | ||||
28 | ★ Hop, Skip, Slump
Big span needed on this one... FA: Steve Grkovic, 2007 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Wet Paint
The first route at Bell Supercrag! Up the open corner for 2 bolts then head rightish. Reachy and committing moves. Classic. FA: Lloyd, 2006 | 16m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Three Hour Commute
Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 17m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ Three Hour Commute Direct
Start just left of WP. Up the thin steepnees and then join into THC for last easy moves to the top. A fairly crucial crimp snapped off in Jul 2018, it is likely much harder than 26 for short people. FFA: Steve G, 8 Nov 2014 | 17m | |||
24 | ★★ Snappy Dresser
Start up the flake, and up to tricky headwall. Good !! FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Bronze Bell
Start as per SD. Pull on to wall and tricky traverse left under the roof (long draws help), turn the lip and on to the face. Follow the seam, then easy flake and jugs to anchors. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 18m, 9 | |||
26 | ★ Lovable Rogue
Not an obvious (or lovable) start. Hard moves through the roof, with a second tricky bit right before the anchor. FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007 | 14m | |||
25 | ★★ Paddle Steamer
Yet another roof climb from the house of Wishart. Hard climbing through the roof to the right of the tree rewards you with a somewhat relaxing paddle up the short headwall FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007 | 13m | |||
25 | ★★★ Paint God
Through thuggy roof and onto the wall. Move hard right (don't continue up the arete) and continue up the nice pumpy wall. | 20m | |||
26 | Games without Frontiers
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2006 | 15m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★★ Autophagocytosis
A great and sustained linkup. Start up the first 3 bolts of Paint God, clip a new 4th bolt and do a hardish move to join Games Without Frontiers just in time for its crux. Then step left and finish up Apple Pie. FFA: 2007 | 20m | |||
26 | ★ God Auto Frontiers (Link-up)
Kind of an obvious linkup with some bolts that are otherwise undescribed. Up arete as for Autophagocytosis, but where it goes L via ridiculous reach, go straight up wall to Frontiers (middle) anchors. | 18m | |||
28 | ★★ Apple Pie
Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse. Given that half the route is a 3 star classic and the bottom half isnt half bad (with the exception of putting 5th draw on) , it deserves attention. Sliding the first two draws in the roof down to your belayer as you pass them will illiminate rope drag issues later on. | 22m | |||
26 | ★★ Caramel Sluice
Starts as for Cavity Search then head right at the first roof. Nice upper wall. | 22m | |||
26 | ★★★ Cavity Search
Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs. | 20m | |||
25 | ★ Pat the Rat
Hardish, give yourself 26 for the direct finish | 17m, 8 | |||
25 | ★ Dirty 30
Steep long boulder start to a hanging slab and some easier climbing to a ledge. Sweet, interesting moves from the half ledge to the top. Bolted on my 30th birthday. Set: Ben JengA, 2014 FFA: Ben JengA, 2014 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Boysenberry Ripple
Hard start into crack and then continue to move diagonally up tending rightwards. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007 | 18m | |||
24 | ★ Thunderbolts and Lightning
Steep, with a hard start and exciting finish. Start up CZ for a few moves, then head right and up. At third bolt, step into the corner and continue up the face following bolts, using the corner as necessary. Set: Rob Medlicott, 14 Feb 2015 FA: Rob Medlicott, 3 May 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Crumple Zone
Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed. FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007 | 8m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Meg's new(?) 23 - Unknown name
The route immediately left of Crumple Zone. Edits welcome if you know the name and/or history! | 12m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Insidious | 12m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★ Ms.G's Cheeseburger Springroll | 15m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★ Does My Bum Look Big On This?
Great route, with a hard leftwards traverse out the roof, then some of the best rock at bell for the slick headwall. Fixed draws in the roof make it an easy clean. FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007 | 12m, 6 | |||
28 | Yes
Diabolical moves through the roof at the start, then easier climbing on great rock FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012 | 12m | |||
23 | ★ Truffle Shuffle
Bouldery fun start to a nice head wall climb. Set: Wade Stewart, 31 Jan 2015 FA: Wade Stewart, 7 Feb 2015 | 15m, 12 | |||
22 | ★ Rocky Road
Right of 'Rhubarb Crumble'. Streno start FA: Jason Lammers, 12 Feb 2015 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Rhubarb Crumble
Undercut start onto slightly overhanging wall past mantle trending left to anchors. Some prefer to stick clip the second bolt. FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006 | 15m, 7 | |||
24 | ★ I Don't Climb I Wobble
Starts 1m L of Rhubarb Crumble. A couple of sharp holds down the bottom and a great reachy crux up top. Finish at RC anchors. | 15m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Who the Fuck is Keith
This is a great little climb with some very cool holds, especially early on. Right of Jigger Jeff; solid start and interesting moves. Moves out right and up. Set: Viona Young, 29 Mar 2015 FA: Viona Young, Wade Stewart & Jason Lammers, 11 Apr 2015 | 15m, 8 | |||
23 | ★ Jigger Jeff
Traverse rightwards on slab to ledge, hand traverse left then up steep jugs. A lot of people do the slab traverse and lower off the last ring on the slab, about 21 FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006 | 17m, 10 | |||
21 | ★ Jigger Jeff (to the ledge)
Up JJ to fixed biner on the lip of the ledge. (someone has stolen the biner) | 14m | |||
19 | ★ Belayer's Root
Tricky steep corner flakes with a great finish. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 14m | |||
21 | ★ Cock Blocker
Left of Belayers Root with a couple of moves towards the top. FA: Jason Lammers, 21 Mar 2015 | 15m | |||
Departures (Upper) | |||||
27 | ★★ Lofty Lungfish
Far end of ropes with triple belay. Up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. Backjump to clean. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011 | 16m, 9 | |||
29 | The Gift
Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof. FA: Steve Grokivc Set: Lloyd Wishard | 16m, 11 | |||
26 | ★ Brixton Jamm
Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot | 15m, 10 | |||
30 | ★★★ Radical Departures
One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's. After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall. Set: lloyd wishart FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2013 | 20m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ For Flake's Sake
The major flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest. Set: Steve Grkovic FA: lloyd wishart, 2013 | 14m | |||
28 | ★★ Hokonui Henchman
Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008 | 18m, 10 | |||
Project Steve
The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at Bell…? Set: Steve Grkovic | 22m, 12 | ||||
24 | ★★ #Ledge life
Tackle the hard and under-graded start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts, then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the sidepull flakes and victory jugs. A long draw at the base of the box roof helps the rope run. | 18m | |||
31 | ★★ Church Mouse
Mostly easy first half leads to a dyno out the lower roof (requires a long sling or 2), clip a hidden chain, then up the sustained second half with a difficult sequence in the upper roof. Best cleaned by reversing to the first anchor. FFA: steve grkovic, 2010 | 25m | |||
29 | ★★ Grave Rat
Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof. FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009 | 25m, 11 | |||
27 | ★★★ Spent Force
Awesome pumper. Face, roof, then however you like up the headwall, all the options have been done so use the holds, or don’t, whatever. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★★ Gushing Gargoyles
Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009 | 25m, 10 | |||
25 | ★ Feisty Phasmid
Weird move to get started, hard at top of wall, then the crux in the roof. FA: lloyd wishart, 2009 | 15m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Destined for Grayness
Good climbing, add a grade if you crank past the anchors to jugs on the lip. FA: lloyd wishart, 2009 | 12m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ Impatient Transport
Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts. Has a couple of thin moves and a hard clip. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008 | 12m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Freeway
Just left of FL starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 16m, 7 | |||
24 | ★ Fridge Lifting
Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff. FA: Jason Lammers, 8 Nov 2014 | 14m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Welcome Alex
The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do FL instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 14m, 7 | |||
The Blowhole | |||||
24 | ★★ Blowtorch
Short roof to start the swing up to the wall on slopey jugs, varied climbing with a committing move up high. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011 | 18m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ Whistle Blower
Start at juggy prow and up wall to ledge then try to find the crux holds in time. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012 | 18m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★ Thar She Blows
A surprisingly long section of steep and juggy climbing that is fairly rough on the skin - but this might allow you to still hold on when totally pumped! FA: Lloyd, 2011 FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011 | 14m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Body Blow
In the middle of crag. Up wall and out the roof on flakes etc before heading rightwards to finish. The climb now has permadraws and only needs quick draws for the 1st, last and anchor bolts. This is like overhung gym climbing at Bell. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012 | 12m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Full Blown Frenzy
Start up Body Blow for 3 bolts then traverse left finishing at Pelorus Jack anchors | 11 | |||
29 | ★ Pelorus Jack
climb straight into frustrating roof boulder problem then head leftwards towards another hard move before exiting to anchors Set: lloyd wishart FA: Chris Simpson, 2 Apr 2016 | 12m, 8 | |||
open project
Alternate start to Pelorus Jack. starts in corner on small holds for 2 rings then joins P.J. Set: lloyd wishart | |||||
25 | ★★ Holelipstick Hippy
Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall. FFA: steve grkovic, 2012 | 16m | |||
28 | ★ Blowpipe Blast
24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2013 | 14m, 9 | |||
27 | ★ Bloated Blowfish
Technical hard start leads to a rest, then an even harder crux and steep finish. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011 | 14m, 9 | |||
24 | ★★ Up.
Action packed route up the arete right of blow. Big start move then hold on through some steep moves to a ledge. Hard face moves follow then great jugs to the top. If the first move is to big then start up Blow and traverse across. Set: Ben JengA, 2014 FFA: Ben JengA, 2014 | 18m | |||
22 | ★★ Blow
Popular, with a hard start that is either dynoed out right, or tackled via small holds on the left. Second half finishes up a short section of attractive rock on good holds. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 10m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Blow Over
The Blow extension. From the anchors of Blow - continue up and leftwards to lower off at the top of the cliff. FA: Jason Lammers, 2 Jan 2015 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Kiama
Start left of tree. Straight up till it gets easy then rightwards to shared lower off with BO. Stay left of the bolts for 22 FA: Jason Lammers, 2 Jan 2015 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Perkins Paste
Bit of a thin move about 1/3 of the way up FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2013 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Araldite
Tricky start and exciting finish, there is a hidden bolt before the last move. FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2014 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Aquadhere
The lower section has some cool pockety holds. FA: Martin Pircher, 2013 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Aquadhere - Extended
The second last bolt on Araldite is next to the anchors on this one so you might as well keep going to the top of the cliff and clip another (hidden) bolt on the way and lower off Araldite. | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Kwik Grip
Pleasant climbing with a slightly steeper section above the little roof. FA: Martin Pircher, 2013 | 15m, 9 | |||
16 | ★ Blow Me
Right of ferny crack; mostly straightforward with plenty of holds and a little move three quarters of the way up. Set: Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 7 Jan 2015 FA: Viona Young, Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart, 7 Feb 2015 | 16m, 9 | |||
16 | ★ Trad Routes Matter!
No doubt the usual crew of first ascentionists will lay claim to having done this previously. Unfortunately the fractured nature of the slab in this section leaves little in the way of redeeming features for a proper climb . . . Start below ferny crack, head up using the fracture and features either side of the cracked slab for progression and protection. Use belay of neighbouring route and top out and find a tree. Originally lead with improvised protection consisting of knotted slings and prussicks, but plenty of modern gear is available. FFA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca & Emily Small, 22 Jan 2017 | 16m | |||
15 | ★ Clag
The right side of the juggy orange streak. FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2014 FA: 2014 | 15m, 8 | |||
16 | ★ Blow Dry
The left side of the juggy orange streak. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Jason Lammers, Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 2 Jan 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Louie Gets The Blow
A couple of moves to get started. Right of BF. FA: Jason Lammers, 7 Jan 2015 | 14m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Blow Fly
The furthest left climb at The Blowhole. Tricky start with a nice flake up high. FA: Wade Stewart, 7 Jan 2015 | 15m, 8 | |||
Fox Hole | |||||
24 | ★ Just Peachy
Steep start then some reachy sustained moves with an open book corner to reward the effort. FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Mango Chutney
A few metres R of Plumtastic. Great route with a mix of difficulties. Up the wall with some welcome rests to the mini cave then try to finish. Quite engaging! FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012 | 16m | |||
22 | ★★ Plumtastic
Another steep start. Enjoyable moves the whole way, finishing on the fairly obvious overhung prow. FA: lloyd wishart, 2013 | 16m | |||
24 | ★★ The Apricot Slot
The L-most route on the sector. Start steeply for a few bolts, then trend rightwards to the crux. Finishes just left of the upper prow the Plumtastic finishes on. FA: lloyd wishart, 2013 | 14m, 9 | |||
Duck Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Darkwing Duck
The far left hand edge of the cliff. Essentially a one sequence wonder with a tricky V4/V5 boulder problem crux in the middle. Clip the first bolt on "How Much is a Duck Worth" then move left and follow the line of bolts with increasing difficulty to the anchors. Set: Paul Thomson, 2013 FA: Gene Gill, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ How Much Is A Duck Worth
Scarily loose, should probably finish under the roof. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Rabbit Season, Duck Season
Another nice warm up for Duck Wall. FA: Viona Young, 9 Sep 2015 | 12m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Cygnet
Links Gosling into HMIADW via the obvious leftward continuation and a few interesting moves in the middle. Climbs well. FA: LinkUp - Paul Thomson & Jason Lammers, 2013 | 18m | |||
18 | ★ Gosling
Left of 'Duckling'. FA: Jason Lammers & Paul Thomson, 2013 | 12m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Duckling
Direct line, right of Gosling. FA: Jason Lammers & Paul Thomson, 2013 Set: Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart, 3 Jan 2016 | 12m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Duck Tits
Left of Out For A Duck. Nice wall climbing with a fun juggy finish. FA: Jason Lammers & Tara Mylan, 9 Jan 2016 | 16m | |||
22 | ★★ Out of Tits
Start up 'Out for a Duck' until the roof section then finish up 'Duck Tits' after traversing readily left. A link up but worthwhile and avoiding the crux finish. | 18m | |||
23 | ★ Out For A Duck
Nice face to steeper hard glued up finish. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011 | 15m |