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Description

Steep North East facing wall, 100m high, and a 50m high lower cliff.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

A good wall for hot afternoons (take a jumper, it by very cold if the wind picks up) and cold mornings (we've climbed in t-shirts while it's snowing there). There are also some older routes described in the Warwick Williams Grose Guide on the wall below the lookout and on the actual 'Pulpit' Rock below the lookout, and a modern mixed route on the lower cliff directly below Bellbird wall area.

Access: Park at 'Pulpit' Rock (Hat Hill Rd, Blackheath) carpark and walk down towards the 'Pulpit' Rock lookouts. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Walk down a faint track that trends rightward, initially parrallel to the main track and then down a cairned ridge for about 60m till you reach rap station. The left most rap station is over 'Stone Poem'. The rap station over the Next Doctor (also used for Bellbird) is to the right and further down hill. One bolt can be seen and clipped to help reach around the block to the two bolt anchor. There is a third anchor at the top of Bellbird but this is not recommended for rapping unless you were to leave extending slings

BellBird Wall is in Red, other routes as marked on Topo. BellBird and 'The Next Doctor' have shared rap station.

'Under the Influence' is accessed from the base of the 'Bellbird Wall' double raps, then by walking around sandy alcove (climbers left) to short rap off bolts down gully, and another rap from the routes belay bolts to base of lower cliff. See topo for this route.

GPS co-ordinates for the top cliff rap point are S33 37.244 E150 19.739

© (bundybear)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
22 ** The Next Doctor Pitch 1 Unknown 35m
2
20 The Next Doctor Pitch 3 Unknown 12m
3
23 *** The Next Doctor Sport 100m

Grand arete, shade by 1 in Summer. 2 x 50m raps to tree on ledge.

Start: Market in Blue on topo

  1. 50m (22) Start on right and up.

  2. 35m (23) Move belay to rings on right side of ledge. Up to good ledge on arete. Hard for the grade...

  3. 15m (22) Straight up to rap anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Vanessa Peterson, Mike Law, 2009

4
21 ** YAKs in Space Sport 16m

Up and launch out to the right with 100m+ of air below you to arete, then up to anchors. Out there !

Either lower off back to the belay, or top out and bring a 2nd up to clean.

Start: Rap is as per tND final pitch.

FA: Bundy and Doddy, 2009

6
18 ** Bellbird Wall Sport 100m, 16

Park at 'Pulpit' Rock carpark and walk down towards 'Pulpit' Rock. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Walk down the right side of the ridge for about 60m till you reach rap station. 2 X 50m raps will get u the the base of the cliff. Note, there is more than one rap access to this area, check topo. Walk right for about 20m to the obvious start in corner. Take 16 draws, and a couple of the anchors.

Start: Marked in red on topo

  1. 45m (16) Climbs up the wall left of the corner on a little rib, staying right of big dead tree then diagonally left across slabby wall with one thin section, past 16 rings to 2RB belay on the RHS of the big ledge.

  2. 40m (17) Move belay 5m to the left. Head diagonally left over ledges then slab. Head up left thru exciting bulge and onto slab and eventually join crack about 10m for the top.

  3. 15m (15) The Champagne pitch! Start up 3D chimney with holds everywhere. Shuffle thru this, past 2 bolts and launch out and up to exciting headwall overlooking the spectacular Grose Valley below.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Vanessa Peterson, Veronica Trainor, Althea Arguelles-Ling , Chris Ling, Mike Law, 2009

7
27 *** Stone Poem Unknown 100m

2 beautiful arêtes separated by a short punchy haiku. The wall faces north east and is well protected on winter mornings, and gets afternoon shade in summer. Take 15 draws.

Rap 30m to a stance 10m below the ledge, then either 20m to belay#3 (hanging) or 30 to belay#2 (good ledge but leave slings to pull ropes). Rap 40m and left slightly to hanging stance at a small ledge on lip of choss. On all raps you must bounce be able to reach anchors. Take prussics. If you're not cruising 27 arêtes, you might leave a rope or 2 fixed.

  1. 40m (25) 40m Up wall and left to arete and up to cave (The Master's Ledge)

  2. 8m (26) Around bulge to hanging belay (The waiting Room)

  3. 35m (27) Out left over the sucking void (past a possible 2 ring belay for those who have bitten off more than they can masticate) and up the arete to ledge.

  4. 20m (20) Over bulge and up

FA: Adrian Laing, Mike Law

8
21 ** Under the Influence Mixed 45m, 18

A fantastic mixed route on the lower cliff. Perfect finger crack with great (natural) pro, then bolt protected face and exposed arête climbing. One long pitch (take 15 draws plus gear) or use midway double-bolt belay to split pitches.

From the base of the Bellbird Wall double rap, walk left (facing in) around the alcove on loose, dusty ground, hugging the cliff (caution - slack belay off the big tree near rap-touchdown recommended. From the end of the alcove the cliff-top heads out perpendicular to the main Bellbird wall. Traverse around the slope while dropping slightly, to where the cliff-top swings back parallel to the main upper cliff. At the top of an obvious blocky gully (only 50m or less from the alcove) downclimb or rap (25-30m?) from double U-bolts, down gully past a few bolts (used as runners for the exit scramble) to a flat block on the cliff edge proper. Rap again (double U-bolts) to climber’s right of small tree (2 ropes, or single fixed is better - about 35m?) to start of route on the short flat-topped pinnacle next to a tree fern.

Pitch 1 (20): (single 0.3-0.75 Camalots; 5 bolts to semi hanging DBB). Finger crack with small cams, then bolts on rising traverse up and left to blunt arête (double bolt belay). Semi-hanging belay or continue.

Pitch 2 (21): (9 bolts to DBB). Thin and delicate climbing on, and just left of, the arête. Stay left of small tree on final short block).

After bringing up your second you can scramble/climb back up the blocky rap gully. There are 4 optional bolt runners to the rap anchors, if staying roped up, but take care – they will only help you so much on this low-angled terrain. Then up to alcove on half-way ledge and around to base of Bellbird wall and top-out routes.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

Open trips

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