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South Cliffs 4 routes in Unknown

  • Avg. Height: 29m
  • Style: All Trad
  • Approach time: 10 min
  • Ascents: 4

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Description:

The cliffs South of the Access Gully to the Colliery. Commencing approximately 75m past the Access Gully Area (to the South/Left) at the obvious steep crack FIFO Hooker, and continuing for a few hundred metres.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ** FIFO Hooker / Rob's Supercrack

75m down and left from the access gully constriction.

Long, steep, technical crack.

Small roof crack to leads to technical corner, and steep chimneying into a roof, before finishing with a nice hand/fist headwall.

Walk off the top via the Access Gully to the left (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Alex Bergmann (S), 2012

19
Trad 35m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
2 Sooty Shaft / Rob's Pillar and Headwall

10m right of FIFO Hooker. Obvious offwidth corner up a detached pillar. From the top of the pillar continue directly up the headwall to the top.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in), and downclimb a few metres.

Take big gear. (Warning: Pro directly after the pillar is sparse, and big boulder on top of pillar rocks if you stand on it). You can belay on top of the pillar, and walk off the back of it if you wish.

May have been climbed previously.

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

16
Trad 40m
3 Brave Canary / Rob's Easy Corner

Easy corner ramble on good rock up crack, past bulge, and continuing up corner crack to the top. Walk off via gully to the right (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

14
Trad 20m
4 Pneumoconiosis Aspirations / Paul's Deadly Face Climb

Start 5m right of Brave Canary in front of dead tree. Boulder up to ledge, move slightly left and climb face to break and gear. Then continue up and slightly right to top of main wall. Hand-traverse right to arete rather than climbing detached block above headwall. CAUTION: Falls much above the one good break would be serious. So named because contracting Pneumoconiosis is probably safer than this climb.

FA: Paul Thomson (L), Rob Burton (S), 2012

17
Trad 20m